Peter Douglas Winn Posted October 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2021 Paul I have just come back from the garage. What you suggested worked. What you forgot to say was:- have 99 various screwdrivers because the one is too long, the next too short, the next too fat, the next too thin, the next too blunted, the next too sharp etc. Secondly my rubbers were in a very good condition as well as the pistons. This meant a large amount of suction. The only way was to ease the piston a very little bit, wait for the rubbers to pull it back. Then start again and after 1/2 hour one piston comes out. No matter what I tried the pistons did tip a very small amout. You can see it without measuring. So the leaverage points had to be continually changed. Thirdly without a vice it is a 2 man job. Inspite of everything your way works. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted October 1, 2021 Report Share Posted October 1, 2021 Hi Peter, this means the pistons glued in the seals and did not want to slide? That is what the seals are made for, but too much causes the effect I described. What about fitting the piston back with some brake grease on the seals? Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Douglas Winn Posted October 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2021 The rubbers were wet with brake fluid. I was looking for Red Grease but Triumph said use plenty of fluid. I do not know, if in this respect there is a difference between DOT 3 and DOT 4 which is what I use. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 2, 2021 Report Share Posted October 2, 2021 14 minutes ago, Peter Douglas Winn said: The rubbers were wet with brake fluid. I was looking for Red Grease but Triumph said use plenty of fluid. I do not know, if in this respect there is a difference between DOT 3 and DOT 4 which is what I use. Hi Peter, there is a difference between DOT 3 & 4. DOT 4 now contains Borate. For what reason I do not know. They are essentially the same. DOT 4 has a higher operating temperature. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Douglas Winn Posted October 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2021 Oh good High boiling point, does that mean I can have my foot on the brakes all the way down from the mountain. I assume that the old braking systems did not generate so much heat. With the more modern cars the braking system is under stress more of the time. I seem to remember that DOT 4 was the standard for cars built after 1989 but I may be completely wrong on that one. Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Douglas Winn Posted October 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2021 I looked up in the internet and it said DOT 4 has borate which helps to increase the boiling poiunt but ........ the hydroscopic qualities are worse and the fluid should be changed at least every 2 years. They are interchangeable. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted October 3, 2021 Report Share Posted October 3, 2021 Changed my DOT 4 last week and let the old fluid settle in a glass jar. A reasonable  amount of water separated out from the used fluid - leading me to think that the moisture content of old fluid could cause corrosion of the brake cylinder bores as well the loss of braking effect . I'm also going to chance the clutch fluid as fluid moisture content could corrode the clutch system bores.  Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Douglas Winn Posted October 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2021 I havw a little fluid tester like a fountain pen with LEDs this tells me when I need a change. Very cheap in the internet. 8 quid or so. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted October 3, 2021 Report Share Posted October 3, 2021 7 hours ago, Peter Douglas Winn said: I havw a little fluid tester like a fountain pen with LEDs this tells me when I need a change. Very cheap in the internet. 8 quid or so. They're basically conductivity testers. The problem is the moisture settles in what looks like white clouds at the bottom of the fluid. A conductivity tester might not sense it. In the master cylinder that will be the piston under the reservoir- and hence moisture migrates, down to the cylinders. I'm wondering what the effect of syphoning and replacing just the fluid in the reservoir on an annual basis would be. This saves bleeding but it is pretty pointless if the water content has drained down into the MC. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 4, 2021 Report Share Posted October 4, 2021 10 hours ago, Mike C said: They're basically conductivity testers. The problem is the moisture settles in what looks like white clouds at the bottom of the fluid. A conductivity tester might not sense it. In the master cylinder that will be the piston under the reservoir- and hence moisture migrates, down to the cylinders. I'm wondering what the effect of syphoning and replacing just the fluid in the reservoir on an annual basis would be. This saves bleeding but it is pretty pointless if the water content has drained down into the MC. Water will mostly be in suspension with standard fluid, it separates in SBF. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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