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I put a couple of the studs in, one at each end on the diagonal, after making sure that they are squeaky clean and that their holes are as well. They hold the gasket in place while the head is positioned. 

Rgds Ian

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If the top of the block has been machined and the head has been skimmed I suggest you fit the head with the used gasket and try to fit the water pump and housing.   Be sure there is clearance between the two, if not out with the grinder/ file.  A lump of putty on the pump and housing squeezed by the head, will shew you where to rework.  If you ignore this you will either not be able to fit the water pump housing or worse, fit the head and it will not seal.

Peter W

 

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image.jpeg.5e1d348b9d326e90104f9271f069a201.jpeg

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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1 hour ago, Adrian Fuller said:

Just out of curiosity if the water pump does interfere with the cylinder head I assume it is the water pump that needs to be dressed up so that it does not foul against the head??? 

I wouldn't think it matters, it will only be a few thou and there must be plenty of spare metal on both castings.  I found that one of the bolts holding down the thermostat housing was too long and clashing with the top of the water pump - I had to shorten it by a few mm.

Rgds Ian

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I had to take metal off the underside of the head (under the thermostat), & also the top of the water pump to create a clearance.

But I had 60 thou skimmed from the head, & 40 from the block face, so that's why.

Bob.

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On 9/24/2021 at 1:48 PM, trchris said:

Don't forget to gap the rings

Chris

 

On 9/24/2021 at 1:48 PM, trchris said:

Don't forget to gap the rings

Chris

what is the ring gap for new rings and liners, also noted that one ring, which i assume  is the top ring, has small step on the outside

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15 Thou minimum gap to prevent binding against the piston, as to max gap, there is hardly any too big. Stagger the gaps if it makes you happy ( I do) confident that within the first thousand miles they will move in the piston, nobody cares. Do a search under piston rings and all is revealed. Yes small step to the top ( it’s a ridge dodger).

Mick Richards

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
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On 9/24/2021 at 7:36 PM, Z320 said:

Hi all,

next Adrian will fit the cylinder head and my father (worked on MB cars and trucks) gave me this advice when I did that my first time:

"Son, listen, don't slide the head over the cylinder head bolts, because they work like files.

And if there is any coal, rust and crud in the drillings the threds will rasp it out and the crud will fall on you seal.

This can cause you seroius trouble, if you don't notice it! better lay the head on the seal and bolt the studs through the head!"

What did I do? I ignored my fathers adcive and did the job too times.

To remind me the worn seal was a long time in my workshop on a nail on the wall.

I know lots of you slide the head over the studs, and some have problems to get the engine sealed.

Ciao, Marco

  

wise words, and ones i will certainly follow.

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  I did think it odd, hence my mentioning it . The 89mm kit came from the TR Shop

I have  slightly bigger problem though...  picked up the liner for deck measurement and dropped the bloody thing on the engine stand   is this still useable  .. there are no other signs of crack .. seriously pissed off its going to be one of those days!

 

IMG_6415.jpg

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2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Why fit ridge dodger top rings in brand new liners? 

One stocked item suits all ? New liners and used liners with lips ? The step makes no difference in performance.

Rather depends upon what the description of being “stepped” encompasses. Could be it’s a small chamfer, pictures would help.

The liner is scrap, you can’t tell what minuscule fracture lines have been instigated but not yet started to travel. Roger is top hole on fractures, if he says look for a replacement that’s what I’d do.

Mick Richards

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thanks Roger not too worried about balance as its not a rotating mass.  I guess when using 89mm liners you have to take into account they are going to be thinner and not to drop em

cheers

steve

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Don’t throw the old liner away.

Keep it in the freezer and use it as a wine cooler. A normal bottle of wine fits quite well. (I know, I’ve tried it…)

 

Put it on the table at dinner parties and plonk a bottle of white in it.

Use it as a conversation piece and tell people it blew out as you were leading on the final lap of some race track or other, doing 9,000 revs.

 

Your guests never need to know the truth.

Charlie.

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2 hours ago, Nobbysr said:

thanks Roger not too worried about balance as its not a rotating mass.  I guess when using 89mm liners you have to take into account they are going to be thinner and not to drop em

cheers

steve

Hi Steve,

I've just read my post and realise that it can;t be out of balance  -  doh!!!      .  I think I had pistons on my mind.

 

Roger

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Many years ago I had a mate who worked for a company that made large compressors for industrial freezers. In those days, as part of his training an apprentice would collect a set of parts from the stores and assemble each unit by hand. 

On one occasion my mate dropped one of the pistons but there was no apparent damage so he quietly carried on and assembled the compressor. 

Roll forward a couple of years and he is called out to a breakdown with one of the senior fitters. When they strip down the offending compressor one of the pistons has disintegrated. The fitter who was in charge expressed his surprise because he’d never seen one do that before. My mate kept Stumm. -_-

Rgds Ian

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Pratt and Witney had an expression for that.  “A crash means Trash”.  We were drilled, as an aircraft engine overhaul company that any engine component that hit the floor was immediately trashed… or in the case of RR items ‘reassessed’.

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On the chipped liner. 
Dye penetration inspection and smooth out the crack edges.  Check the piston does not drop lower than the chip    If happy maybe fit and forget 

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27 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

On the chipped liner. 
Dye penetration inspection and smooth out the crack edges.  Check the piston does not drop lower than the chip    If happy maybe fit and forget 

Dye Pen - on ferromagnetic steel - how common.   It will work of course but Magnetic particle is the better option.

Simple horse shoe magnet (bigger the better) and some magnetic spray.  OR take it to your local engine builder - he will have a Magnaflux bench.

 

Roger

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1 hour ago, RogerH said:

I see that Moss sell a single 86mm + 0.020",  0.030",  0.040"   for apprx £40.  How much does a rebore cost???

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/engine/engines-components/internal-engine-tr2-4a-1953-67.html

Roger

Hi Roger, It was some years ago but I had a set of 87mm liners taken out to 87.2mm to use a set of Omega pistons and it cost around £60 for the four, the trouble is I don't think you will be able to buy a single 89mm liner (you'd have to buy a full set plus pistons) and the Moss plus 0.040" is on an 86mm piston so you won't get to 89mm that way, but maybe I'm wrong and someone can supply an 89mm liner on it's own.

Cheers Rob 

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