Cam shaft core plug And main bearing housing

[Adrian Fuller]

Hi all

 

I am at last starting the engine rebuild of my 58 Tr3a. Almost straight away I am at a stop as not sure what sealer to use on the cam shaft core plug and the next part will be the rear main bearing felt sealer.. Has anyone got any suggestions?. I guess I am going to be posting quite a lot over the next week or so. 

 

Sorry in advace

Adrian

[Lebro]

Wellseal, & stuff as much felt (pre-soaked) down the slots as you can, leaving some proud.

Bob

[trchris]

Hi Adrian

I used some black silicon sealer from euro car parts on the core plug, if you apply I very thin line on the engine block where the core plug mates then after installing as per manual wipe the excess off the inside making sure there's none on your cam bearing I also smeared some around the outer edge just to be sure. The main bearing felts wellseal and as Bob says plenty of it if you do it right you will see it ooze out between cap and engine

Chris       

[Adrian Fuller]

Thanks for the info. And while I am typing Bod I got some max power con rods which I believe you fitted, these do not have any lock tabs, did you use any product on the threads and what did you torque them up to. Also is there a correct orientation ie writing to front of the engine?. Thanks again for your help

[Motorsport Mickey]

These Maxpeeding rods have ARP Bolts fitted which should be fitted using their own lube. The bolts need stretching a required amount, there will be a torque recommended in the supplied pack, if lube not supplied it’s available on e bay. Do a search on Maxpeeding on this 4 cyl forum and you’ll find a few threads covering it. Although the ARP recommend a torque it didn’t stretch the bolt enough to reach it’s “elastic” range. PeterW also posted there and there’s a conversation relating to ARP stretching and what ARP recommend and how to measure it.

Mick Richards

[Lebro]

What Mick said.    I had no means of measuring bolt stretch, so I used the torque setting given in the booklet that came with them. Don't have that to hand, & I won't guess.

As I recall they can be fitted either way round, but could be wrong.

Bob.

[Ian Vincent]

For the camshaft core plug, I followed Mick's advice and used JB weld (plus a new plug), I didn't want it leaking again.

Rgds Ian

[Adrian Fuller]

Thanks everyone

Next on my list is rebuilding the head, I have fitted 5/16 exhaust valves and the springs supplies only have two springs foe exhaust and inlet, my was uestion is do I still fit the collar under the exhaust spring seen at the top of the picture? 

 

Thanks again

Adrian

[Lebro]

I didn't

Bob

[Ian Vincent]

Neither did I.  I fitted TR4a springs which are identical (and only double) for both inlet and exhaust.

Rgds Ian

[Lebro]

I was going to do that, buy found that the later springs were a smaller diameter, which meant also replacing the caps on all of them, & that the springs did not locate nicely in the cylinder head.  Tests showed that the standard 4A springs were no softer, (or stronger) than my original TR3 ones.

Bob

[Keith Wigglesworth]

This is how Peter and I did it. Put Wellseal and cut up wadding in a pot and soak. Then bang in with a suitable drift. Leave a little proud of the surface. Very messy but effective. 

[Motorsport Mickey]

+1

The soaked felt needs ramrodding in so the Wellseal compresses out of the felt and forces between the rear block bearing cap and the sides of the block. The gap there is machined and only a couple of thou clearance, so it needs a very thin sealing agent…step forward Wellseal.

Mick Richards

[Adrian Fuller]

Has anybody used one of the bastuck seals. How on earth do you close the gap (see picture below) especially when trying to put the crank into the bearing and seal, there is just no room... 

Also the instructions say use silicon sealer on the outside of the seal which is supposed to stop movement but will probably prevent movement when trying to assemble with the bearing cap and top seal which looks like it snaggs on the sharp edges which again may stop the bearing cap seating properly. 

Thanks again for any suggestions 

[iain]

5 hours ago, Keith Wigglesworth said:

This is how Peter and I did it. Put Wellseal and cut up wadding in a pot and soak. Then bang in with a suitable drift. Leave a little proud of the surface. Very messy but effective. 

+1 this really does work very well.