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Inner sill holes for rustproofing


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While my initial membership is still to be completely processed, I would appreciate some guidance here. The October 2013 thread initiated by Les was helpful as I have also been thinking of drilling a hole through the lower part of the fender well directly into the rear opening of the inner sill of my TR3B. I want to vacuum/remove anything that should not be there. I have been thinking also of a second 1/2 to 5/8 inch hole under the floor in the vertical side of the sill ten inches back from its front. Both holes plugged and sealed after the waxy stuff was introduced. Do you think this second hole will compromise the inner sill? Another approach perhaps? Thanks.

James

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Welcome James,

I would not think that the holes you suggest would weaken the inner sills, as long as they are in good condition now and you are not closing the stable door after the horse has bolted, so to speak.  A bit of preventative medicine now is easier than fitting new inner sills.

Ralph

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Hi James,

the end plates of the sill are good for accessing a long spray probe.

Have a look along the lower inner sill (Floor drop flange) there are holes in this to allow water to drain out and are big enough for a decent probe.

They are on the 4A I am assuming the 3 would be the same.

 

Roger

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24 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Hi James,

the end plates of the sill are good for accessing a long spray probe.

Have a look along the lower inner sill (Floor drop flange) there are holes in this to allow water to drain out and are big enough for a decent probe.

They are on the 4A I am assuming the 3 would be the same.

 

Roger

No Roger its not unfortunately, Sidescreen inner sill is pretty much a sealed unit so drains are needed.

Stuart.

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Thanks guys, for the speedy response. I will do this in the near future. Stuart, when you state “drains,” do you suggest holes on the bottom horizontal surface of the inner sill similar to what the outer sills have?

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I drilled holes in the end capping plates of each inner sill front and back so that I could spray waxy gunk into them. I then tapped the holes to take a 1/4” dia set screw. Easy to remove the set screw periodically and give them another blast. 

Rgds Ian 

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1 hour ago, Jtex60easy said:

Thanks guys, for the speedy response. I will do this in the near future. Stuart, when you state “drains,” do you suggest holes on the bottom horizontal surface of the inner sill similar to what the outer sills have?

You could but TBH I find the best is a 1/2" hole at each end then Waxoil pumped right through and then fit grommets each end will out last you and me.

Stuart.

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Roger, I know what you mean. I have had this car for 40+ years and I am still learning significant things every season. Right now I am appreciating Ian and Stuart pointing me toward both ends of the inner sill and clarifying a way forward. I can see a couple of half-inch grommets coming into view just now.

James

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Foster, your recollection matches what I am looking at once the “dog-legged” interior trim is removed. I have begun to drill, but am currently waiting for shorter drill bits in the 5/16 to 1/2 inch sizes to arrive. My overly bulky drill hits the front of the brake drum when I try to line up a perpendicular line of attack with the motley assortment of bits I now have.

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15 hours ago, Jtex60easy said:

Foster, your recollection matches what I am looking at once the “dog-legged” interior trim is removed. I have begun to drill, but am currently waiting for shorter drill bits in the 5/16 to 1/2 inch sizes to arrive. My overly bulky drill hits the front of the brake drum when I try to line up a perpendicular line of attack with the motley assortment of bits I now have.

Get yourself a cone drill, or stepped drill. Very useful.

Ralph

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The way I have done it is to buy some grommets in bulk first and then use a step drill to get a slight oversize. This will allow for paint to give a snug fit. I think mine were 12mm. 
Keith

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