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:angry::angry::angry:

 

Replacement servo on - absolutely no difference :(

 

Everything in the system apart from the master cylinder has now been replaced but I still get spongy, barely effective brakes with loads of pedal travel. Any suggestions, please??

 

Thanks in advance (again :rolleyes: )

 

Kevin

 

Repeat after me:

 

I will not sell it

I will not sell it

I will not sell it

I will not sell it

I will not sell it

I will not sell it

I will not sell it

I will not sell it

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Hi Kevin

 

I hate to say the obvious but have you thought of going the whole hog and replacing the master cylinder - my seals went and I was advised to replace it completely rather than putting new seals in - besides the difficulty of the job, the internal bore was rusty from moisture over the 30 years of its life

 

I started the other way round with my 6 - replacing master cylinder, rear cylinders, Greenstuff pads & shoes, Goodyear braided hoses and then the servo. It was bettter but eventually found the real problem was partially seized front calipers. I then obtained a complete set of EBC drilled and vented discs and calipers and I can lock up the front anytime I want and even better feel whats happening!

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Hi Kevin

 

I hate to say the obvious but have you thought of going the whole hog and replacing the master cylinder - my seals went and I was advised to replace it completely rather than putting new seals in - besides the difficulty of the job, the internal bore was rusty from moisture over the 30 years of its life

 

Thanks for that, jemgee. I am indeed going to go the whole hog - master cylinder on its way as I write. I have a refurb kit but, like yourself, believe the job to be quite an involved one - and don't wish to test my competency at 60mph on a wet and windy February evening!

 

Anyway, if that doesn't sort it, look out for a 90% complete inca yellow restoration project on ebay ;)

 

cheers,

 

Kevin

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If you have flexible rubber brake pipes ( as opposed to stainless steel that would be damaged ) going to each wheel then try and carefully clamp each one with Mole grips or similar. Clamp all the pipes in one go- this has effectively isolated the cylinders/calipers which are the points where air is normally trapped. Feel how the brake pedal is now. If it is good then let off one Molegrip at a time checking the brake pedal for feel between each removal of Molegrips. You may be able to tell which cylinder/caliper is playing up when the pedal goes soft after releasing one of the Moles. If it is a back brake ( my money is on that ) it may not be adjusted properly. In this case adjust the linings so that the wheel can not turn- don't use excessive force, and try the pedal now to see if it is better. If it is then slacken the adjuster just enough to let the wheel rotate.

 

DONT drive the car with the brakes all clamped off for obvious reasons!! An awful lot of brake problems are down to adjustment and/or bleeding. It might be the cheapest way by getting the MOT garage to bleed them and find the problem. Keep trying, you are on a steep learning curve, but it will be worth it !

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Since no-one has mentioned it do remember the TR7 brake bias valve. These are rarely replaced or rebuilt though you'll get a reconditioned (or even NOS) one easily enough. When the valve siezes on your original 1970/80s unit you'll never be able to bleed the brakes properly :(

 

Malcolm.

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Since no-one has mentioned it do remember the TR7 brake bias valve. These are rarely replaced or rebuilt though you'll get a reconditioned (or even NOS) one easily enough. When the valve siezes on your original 1970/80s unit you'll never be able to bleed the brakes properly :(

 

Malcolm.

 

Is it possible to check the brake bias valve, Malcolm (other than by the knowledge that you can't bleed the brakes)?

 

cheers

 

Kevin

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Saxchappy, has this car been out of service for any length of time?

If so, there are a number of different things to look for.

 

1; Are the caliper seals stuck to the pistons? Quite common when not used.

 

2; Are the rear wheel cylinders rusted up? Also common.

 

3; Are the rear brakes adjusted, either by auto adjusters, or by hand?

 

4; Are rears adjusted by tightening hand brake cable?

 

We may have been misleading you, on the assumption that your brakes were working recently.

As Malcolm suggests, things are likely to be seized, if they have not been used for some time.

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Saxchappy, has this car been out of service for any length of time?

If so, there are a number of different things to look for.

 

1; Are the caliper seals stuck to the pistons? Quite common when not used.

 

2; Are the rear wheel cylinders rusted up? Also common.

 

3; Are the rear brakes adjusted, either by auto adjusters, or by hand?

 

4; Are rears adjusted by tightening hand brake cable?

 

We may have been misleading you, on the assumption that your brakes were working recently.

As Malcolm suggests, things are likely to be seized, if they have not been used for some time.

 

Hasbeen,

 

The car has been out of comission for at least ten years. I bought it just over a year ago (I think) as a solid body resto project (see www.freewebs.com/saxchappy for details if you like :) )with a seized engine and, as it turned out, k*ackered gearbox from SandS in Bacup. However, it has had new copper pipes, braided steel hoses, front calipers, rear cylinders and a second hand servo (although not recon as sellers website ordering suggested) fitted by me. I have this very morning successfully adjusted the handbrake. About the only parts not replaced are those under the bonnet (apart from the servo).

 

Does any of that shed light on things?

 

Thanks for your time and effort :rolleyes:

 

Kevin

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In that case, I think you should replace every bit of rubber in the brakes, including hoses, & overhaul/replace, all the things you will find rusted, after this time.

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Just a thought, have you checked the vacuum hose from the inlet manifold to the servo and rubber washer on the servo inlet? also check the spigot on the inlet manifold this has a non return valve in it (& usually cheap secondhand mine cost me about £2.50), a change in the engine speed when your depress the brake pedal should point to a servo or vacuum problem (in theory!)

 

Good luck,

 

Craig.

Edited by Craig Addison
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Big thanks to everyone for their invaluable help and advice over the past weeks, months and, it appears, years :rolleyes:

 

I looked at my webpage (www.freewebs.com/saxchappy) the other day to find that it is almost exactly two years since I started this restoration - can't believe the time has gone so fast ;) . Anyway, have fitted a new brake bias valve, bled the brakes according to the very useful advice from Simon at S and S and am going for the second anniversary MOT on Tuesday. Watch this space to find out what I fail on :lol::lol:

 

cheers

 

 

Kevin

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Come on, Kevin.... We're all dying to know: DID IT PASS? ;) Maxwell

 

Thanks for your support, Maxwell.

 

Yet again Lady Luck has intervened. Have been bed-ridden with man-flu for the last few days. Have ventured from my pit this morning with steely resolve - Saturday will be the day. No, really :)

 

Kevin

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The deed is done! A not quite resounding fail sheet has been issued, but generally I am well pleased, as they say :) I have to say, driving to the test centre was fantastic! Pulled in for petrol (on the direct route to the test station of course!) - lots of smiles from folk spotting the big yellow wedge. Even the re-emergence of the water pump leak I thought had cured itself didn't dampen my spirits. It was bright, sunny, windy and cold - and NVC was on the road under her own steam again for the first time, legally and for any distance, in the best part of fifteen years :rolleyes:

 

Had the MOT done at my local Honda bike specialist (yes really!) in Crewe. I have had all my MOTing done there for the past five years or so. Friendly service, honest and sensible. They treated me like a king - genuinely pleased to have a car in that wasn't run of the mill (the tester admitted to owning one years ago - had a thing about Mantas but was thinking about TR7s again), invited me into the testing area to take photos (for the website, you understand (go there from here if you like!)), talked me through the testing, offering advice along the way and even taped off the headlamps for me when it transpired that they were pointing the wrong way ie. continental! (BTW, anyone know how to get round this without fitting proper blackout to the units?).

 

So, what did she fail on? Just two things:

 

1. excessive blowing from exhaust - this got worse as I neared the test station. Just a joint that needs a bit of putty and tightening I think.

 

2. inoperative parking brake on nearside. Not sure about this, as the whole system has been taken to pieces, cleaned and reassembled/readjusted etc as documented on this thread. Any thoughts on where to go on this would be welcome :blink:

 

And that was it - 10 days to sort it , and no retest fee! Let's see how it goes.

 

Drove home the most direct route without speed humps which gave me the opportunity to touch 60 (yes 60!) mph. Fantastic :lol:

 

 

Big thanks to all who helped me get this far!!!

 

Kevin

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  • 4 weeks later...

:P:P:P:P:P:P:P:P

 

Thanks to all for their interest and assistance over the past TWO YEARS!!!

 

4:00pm today saw NVC 988W officially MOTd and street legal!!

 

I most certainly could not have done it without the help (morale and technical) given here so generously - many, many thanks. Now all I have to do is all the little jobs that aren't MOT critical. Joy!!

 

 

cheers!!!!!

 

 

Kevin

 

:P:P:P:P:P:P:P:P

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Great news Kevin! How about a shakedown run to Kent? Maxwell :rolleyes:

 

Err - nice one Maxwell - my wife was expressing concern that I'd make it to the MOT station this afternoon :blink: However, once I've got the water pump re-seated (stripped the pump down as part of the engine rebuild but I'm getting quite a bad coolant leak from the cut-out slot in the block) my intention is to use the car as much as possible. I lost count of the number of shows I went to in the Sharan over the past two years whilst NVC lay on the path on axle stands. So, if there's a chance to beetle off to meet fellow 7 owners I intend to take it! :P

 

regards

 

 

Kevin

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  • 2 weeks later...

Looking back at the initial post on this thread, I can't believe seven months have gone so quickly and my attitude to the challenges of TR7 motoring have reversed do completely! Anyway, after a water pump replacement NVC was driven for pleasure for the first time road legally today not to a booked appointment at an MOT testing station :P

 

The replacement water pump fitting seems to have gone according to plan and I (and my sons, one of my daughters (the other had to leave to get back to university, but can't wait to 'have a go') and my wife) have enjoyed (there's the word!) the pleasure of TR motoring properly for the first time in a long while :rolleyes:

 

And now I can leave this chapter of TR7 ownership behind and move on to the next one which no doubt will include faults and breakdowns but drives into the countryside and to shows as well!

 

Thank you all sincerely once again :P

 

Aaaah - closure is a wonderful thing ;)

 

 

Kevin

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