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AC Delco Fuel Pump Parts


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Evening all

I have a spare AC Delco fuel pump and wondered if you can obtain the small oil seal and retainer in the base of the pump, and the best source for parts?

The only part number I can see is D60108 on the pump body, so is this even the correct one, as it does not have the fuel valves retained by a screwed plate but peined in?

Any info gratefully received.

Regards

Kevin

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31 minutes ago, MikeF said:

try googling

triumph tr4 fuel pump refurb kit

None of the readily-available kits include that seal Mike. There has been quite a bit of discussion here over the years (and fairly recently) as to where you can get them. They seem to be like hens teeth.

Kevin - the peened-in valves mean it's a later pump. 

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"None of the readily-available kits include that seal"

Didn't appreciate that. Do you have a sketch/image/drawing of the seal?

Mike

 

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20 hours ago, MikeF said:

"None of the readily-available kits include that seal"

Didn't appreciate that. Do you have a sketch/image/drawing of the seal?

Mike

 

I did manage to purchase this kit through Ebay today which is supposedly NOS, contains the seal and what looks like the correct retainer. Hopefully there’s more of these available.

Kevin

 

AD83A80D-7934-45A1-8726-4AC0DD223A32.jpeg

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Hi Folks,

isn't it strange how fate weaves its little tricks.

Yesterday I had a call for help. My friends 4A would start and run for 5 - 10 seconds and then stop. It did this a couple of times.

Over the phone I diagnosed a fuel problem.

This morning, armed to the teeth, I popped over to my friends car. Every thing looked OK except for a dozen irrelevant things.

Disconnect pipe going into the carbs, spin the engine, not a lot of fuel coming out.

Disconnect pipe coming from tank to pump and oodles of fuel gushing out.

Off with the pump lid and check the daiphragm - all OK.

Spin the engine and look at the  diaphragm actuator down inside - Hmm, not moving.

Take pump body off block and eventually realise the cam lever spring is not where it should be. I then notice that it is half the size it should be. 

So the cause for not working is that the spring broke in half.

I then notice that the two hammered in clips that hold the lever axle are not fitted - could all this lot be in the sump!!!

Shoot off to Moss to get a spring - no chance.

So I go home (the opposite direction to where the sick car is) - collect a very old spare pump from my garage and head back.

Back at the sick car - I find my pump innards is very different to the original nothing can be used.

Off to Moss to buy a new pump. This looks like the original pump but with all the important bits.  ( the Moss pumps are on sale at the moment for about £40.)

With the new pump fitted it started quite promptly.  This little job took from 11am to 3.15pm and 58 miles of wasted journeys.

Still, it is now up and running.

 

Roger

 

 

  

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2 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Hi Folks,

isn't it strange how fate weaves its little tricks.

Yesterday I had a call for help. My friends 4A would start and run for 5 - 10 seconds and then stop. It did this a couple of times.

Over the phone I diagnosed a fuel problem.

This morning, armed to the teeth, I popped over to my friends car. Every thing looked OK except for a dozen irrelevant things.

Disconnect pipe going into the carbs, spin the engine, not a lot of fuel coming out.

Disconnect pipe coming from tank to pump and oodles of fuel gushing out.

Off with the pump lid and check the daiphragm - all OK.

Spin the engine and look at the  diaphragm actuator down inside - Hmm, not moving.

Take pump body off block and eventually realise the cam lever spring is not where it should be. I then notice that it is half the size it should be. 

So the cause for not working is that the spring broke in half.

I then notice that the two hammered in clips that hold the lever axle are not fitted - could all this lot be in the sump!!!

Shoot off to Moss to get a spring - no chance.

So I go home (the opposite direction to where the sick car is) - collect a very old spare pump from my garage and head back.

Back at the sick car - I find my pump innards is very different to the original nothing can be used.

Off to Moss to buy a new pump. This looks like the original pump but with all the important bits.  ( the Moss pumps are on sale at the moment for about £40.)

With the new pump fitted it started quite promptly.  This little job took from 11am to 3.15pm and 58 miles of wasted journeys.

Still, it is now up and running.

 

Roger

 

 

  

But are the missing bits in the sump?:wacko:

Stuart.

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The new replica pumps look perfect, and also have the push rod seal inside!

But the shaft of the pump lever is only fixed by 2 steel clips pressed in the soft housing.

This will not last for ever..... I own one of them and my idea was to make a securing plate

as wide as the paper seal (between 2 paper seals) to secure them in position.

But I have (by accident) 3 original pumps and so I never started making one.....

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11 hours ago, Z320 said:

The new replica pumps look perfect, and also have the push rod seal inside!

But the shaft of the pump lever is only fixed by 2 steel clips pressed in the soft housing.

This will not last for ever.....

Hi Marco,

those two clips were missing from the one off the car yesterday. I have no idea how old the pump is but it looked very clean inside the lid.

Roger

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I noticed at least one post at the German TR-Freun.de forum from a guy with the same problem:

the clips moved out of the housing and the parts (which ones?) dropped in the engine.

I make photos later today, yesterday evening on my spare part enginge i measured the hole in the engine is about 27 mm wide,

the outside of the clips is also 27 mm wide, the paper seal is smaller but can't hold the clips in?

 

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This is the hole in the engine for the fuel pump, about 28 mm wide

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This are the clips holding the shaft and lever in position, about 27.5 mm wide.

You notice the lever is not 90° angled to the shaft? It worked anyway for a test drive last year.

VR3UbOWR9cduvOsnuMTL6Qjp3HphTkuOA4JviGME

If moving out of the clips is a problem (I don't know, but can imagine)

a "securing shim" like this (I made it from 0,8 mm sheet steel) is my idea to avoid this.

e37XAUZdFA-YKEgoKmIjNz_0fRsAsiEuT1jcqqkc

Sealed with a paper seal from both sides this could work to avoid a brake down on the road?

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Ciao, Marco

 

 

Edited by Z320
clearifying to avoid missunderstanding
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Marco

mine had a plastic/ rubber type gasket on that face to the block a fine slit for the lever to poke through. And a lower hole that I presume is an oil drain. 
should keep excess oil out. 

5F9AFD9D-05F4-4EE8-BFD9-2FECD1CE43A7.jpeg

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