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Rebuilt Engine on Frame Running


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I made a small test board to wire up the engine so I could run it on the frame and see any leaks or issues before I put the body back on.  Here's a short video of the first run.

 

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So far the engine has ran about an hour.  I will re-torque at some point for sure.  I believe the procedure is to lube the head nuts well back off each in turn 1 flat and then torque to the correct original setting in the same order as the head is originally torqued. 

When this is done does it require to reset the tappet/pushrod clearances?

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The extra compression of the gasket, if any, is most unlikely to make a valve gap reset necessary, but a check is indicated anyway at the first 500 mile inspection/service.

Edited by john.r.davies
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2 hours ago, RMP NC said:

So far the engine has ran about an hour.  I will re-torque at some point for sure.  I believe the procedure is to lube the head nuts well back off each in turn 1 flat and then torque to the correct original setting in the same order as the head is originally torqued. 

When this is done does it require to reset the tappet/pushrod clearances?

What do you mean “ lube the head nuts well “ ? Triumph torque values are given dry.

Mick Richards

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I had literally this morning read a post from 2015 on this topic, which I just went back and re-read and indeed the consensus and strong suggestion from you, Mike Richards, on that post was to NOT lube them.  I misread it earlier and so I do see now the suggestion is not to lube them.   The ones inside the valve cover will have oil on them, can't help that.  Not sure the difference that makes but I have read it correctly now.  Thanks.

 

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Hi Mr RMP,

See how nice it is to have even just a first name to refer to rather than a non de plume. Yes indeed the Triumph torque values are given dry.

Triumph gave dry fastener torques (you will not find any reference to lubed fastenings in their workshop manuals), and they expected the cylinder head to be retorqued within 1000 miles (these days we retorque from about 200 miles, 50 years on the engine tolerances are not as tight).The studs which are positioned underneath the rocker cover, although they are oil drenched, because of the thread deformation of studs and nuts caused by the 105 lb ft torque do not allow oil to pass down the threads and so can be treated the same as those outside the rocker cover. Triumph expected this otherwise they would have specified a different regime to equalise the cylinder head torquing. Release the torque by unwinding the nuts in torquing pattern by about 1 flat so that any sticking friction is released and then retorque the nuts back up dry to the 105 figure in one movement. You'll normally find the nuts will go a little further as they take up any slack in the head gasket fixing.  

There can be no argument that a lubricated stud and nut will give more consistent (the friction is reduced and the "scatter" between upper and lower friction forces brought together) final clamping forces than torquing dry components. These days almost all modern cars use lubricated fittings. 

The nuts can be fitted dry as per Triumph torques but If you wish to lube the studs and nuts to obtain a more even torque and clamp loadings then this needs doing as per the previous 2015 post.

Mick Richards  

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Thank you and happy to give a name.  I put it in my TriumphExperience forum account, not sure why I didn't here.

Russell M. Pennington

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Now I remember why there is no name given for me.  It is because i cannot find anywhere to add it or to change my user name.  If there's a trick let me know.  I've looked a few times and gave up.

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Who must I ask and/or how do I?  I have not seen a link for this.

Thank you for the help.

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TR Register Office

TR Register, 1B Hawksworth, Southmead Industrial Park, Didcot, Oxfordshire. OX11 7HR

Tel:    +44 (0) 1235 818866

Email:    office@tr-register.co.uk

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19 minutes ago, Andy Moltu said:

Standard head torque for the 4 pot is done dry.

If you have fitted uprated ARP head studs  they specify the use of their lube on the nuts/threads.

Yes Andy, but I would not use the ARP bolts and their lubrication ( very slippy giving a 30% increase in clamp) AND the standard 105 lb ft torque for the head.
 

The 30% increase will raise torque level to over 136 ft lbs. I know the ARP bolts will stand that, but I fear it will find out any suspect threads in the block…which are tough to fix.

I torque ARP to 80 lbs which gives an anticipated 104 “ on the floor” ( of the engine deck) when used with their lube.

Mick Richards

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