RMP NC Posted September 6, 2021 Report Share Posted September 6, 2021 (edited) My 64 TR4 was hit driver side front sometime in the past and repaired. I've found a replacement frame as the old frame although bent back to about in shape was bent and I did not trust it. I am now about to deal with the other aspects of that accident and damage on the body. The car as I got it from outside view had really good bonnet to body gaps, etc. and it may be ok, but while body is separate and before I am done with my cutting and welding I wanted to verify the body repair to the wheel arch, and inner fender was workable. The wheel arch was cut and replaced from about 2/3 back of the front end to the front end. It was welded in and that's clear. But further back I see definite bending that had happened to the end of the driver footwell. What I wanted to just verify was basic side to side and other measurements. For example from the flat part that covers the suspension to the other side, etc. Any reference measurements would be good. I did find an engine bay measurement file on here from 11 years ago but the diagonal measurements seem wrong as they don't agree and the one arrow does not point to the right spot or something. Thanks in advance. Engine Bay Dimensions.pdf Edited September 6, 2021 by RMP NC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RMP NC Posted September 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2021 Here is the inside of the wheel arch after I removed the rubber undercoating - the stitched weld and color change is clear. A green donor was involved. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted September 6, 2021 Report Share Posted September 6, 2021 I can appreciate your intention of getting the distances correct, but. I would concentrate my efforts on the bonnet and fender alignment, rather than measurements. Assuming the cockpit is sufficiently braced. This is what I would do apart from panel beating the driver's side firewall flat. [relatively easy ] Straighten the outside tops as indicated so that they are flush with the outside edge of the cowl. [ maybe even weld in a small right angle bracket, plus make sure the bolt to ridge of the inners are vertical all the way along ] Hang the fenders and place the hood loosely into position. [ add packers under the hood to raise into correct position ] Check gaps around the hood. If all OK, good to go onto the next phase of the resto. If not, get back to us for further suggestions. Is the front lip of the cowl where indicated bent slightly or just an optical illusion. ALSO....the body should be firmly bolted down to the chassis [assuming straight] prior to any major panel work or panel alignment. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 7, 2021 Report Share Posted September 7, 2021 As stated above the shell needs to be fitted to the chassis to ascertain whats really going on. Get the chassis up on stands and get it level front to back and side to side first of all and then bolt the body down and get that level the same using the relevant packers then and only then can you properly tell whats happening and deal with it from there. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RMP NC Posted September 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2021 (edited) Thank you for the thoughtful replies. I do appreciate the advice on what to do. For the under bonnet, I did not plan to do any re-bending of the body off the frame. The fit of the bonnet and fenders was very good before I took this off the old frame. I plan on having to fit the body to frame before I can finalize the body to paint. It is not easy without typing a lengthy message to convey the plan or reasons for asking. I've had several discussions with friends in my garage about the state of the body and this information serves multiple purposes, some just to settle friendly discussions. If any of you happen to have the dimensions and would be kind enough share them, I would appreciate that. If not, I soldier on without. Edited September 7, 2021 by RMP NC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 7, 2021 Report Share Posted September 7, 2021 1 hour ago, RMP NC said: Thanks you for the thoughtful replies. I do appreciate the advice on what to do. For the under bonnet, I did not plan to do any re-bending of the body off the frame. The fit of the bonnet and fenders was very good before I took this off the old frame. I plan on having to fit the body to frame before I can finalize the body to paint. It is not easy without typing a lengthy message to convey the plan or reasons for asking. I've had several discussions with friends in my garage about the state of the body and this information serves multiple purposes, some just to settle friendly discussions. If any of you happen to have the dimensions and would be kind enough share them, I would appreciate that that. If not, I soldier on without. Unfortunately I dont have a bare shell here at the moment. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted September 7, 2021 Report Share Posted September 7, 2021 I have a bare shell, but pardon me for saying.....IMHO the measurements are not relevant if as you say the panel fitment was good. If the request was to settle an argument between friends, then enlighten us as to the difference of opinions. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RMP NC Posted September 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2021 I give up. It is not a hard question but it is a fair question that I ask. Answer me or not, I’m done explaining. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RMP NC Posted September 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2021 (edited) In case anyone else may ever be looking for this and be thwarted, I found in a 2004 posting from another forum measurements from what is supposed to be an original untouched car: Measured at places where a straight metal tape would cross, measurements are the sheet metal, not including the chrome fender bead... Bonnet opening, rear, measured just in front of the cowl vent -- 46 15/16" Bonnet opening, front, measured just behind the hinge arms -- 45 11/16" Bonnet itself, rear, measured at rearmost point -- 46 9/16" Bonnet itself, front, measured at frontmost point but not as accurate as above as tape had to bow slightly across leading edge of bonnet nose - 44 3/4" All credit and thank you Geo. Hahn aka Yoda in Arizona, USA. It was his car and post from 2004. Russell M. Pennington Edited September 8, 2021 by RMP NC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RAHTR4 Posted September 9, 2021 Report Share Posted September 9, 2021 Hi Russell, You have a P.M. Regards, Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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