marki Posted September 5, 2021 Report Share Posted September 5, 2021 Hi All it would appear I need to change my clutch master cylinder, before I buy one does anyone recommend a good un ? Cheers Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted September 5, 2021 Report Share Posted September 5, 2021 Could have your current one sleeved with a stainless sleeve. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marki Posted September 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2021 Hi Tim. Unfortunately it's not an original but a TRW. Cheers Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted September 5, 2021 Report Share Posted September 5, 2021 12 minutes ago, marki said: Hi Tim. Unfortunately it's not an original but a TRW. Cheers Mark Can't see why a TRW couldn't be sleeved the same as original one? Unless others know differently. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mhossack Posted September 5, 2021 Report Share Posted September 5, 2021 Hi Mark. I am going to fit a complete new clutch system on my TR6 starting tomorrow. I purchased a pastparts refurbished AP Lockheed clutch slave cylinder 99364C Q-310 from TR Parts Richard Crewe-Read rcreweread@gmail.com from Colchester. I purchased a NOS Girling clutch master cylinder .70 64676310 (154932) from T D Fitchett www.tdfitchett.co.uk for £66 posted, and you can feel the quality of the parts, from the cheaper aftermarket rubbish fitted just before I purchased my TR6 about 5 years ago. They still have some in stock, I think great value for money, and where else can you get NOS parts. Mick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marki Posted September 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2021 Hi Mick. I've just looked, unfortunately they are showing no stock. cheers Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marki Posted September 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2021 Hi Mick. Just thought I'd give them a ring and they do have stock, many thanks for the tip. cheers Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HSM Posted September 6, 2021 Report Share Posted September 6, 2021 Merlin Motor Sport do a range of Girling U.K. manufactured master cylinders in 3 bore sizes,they may be compatible with the TR6. The push rod would have to be changed. Regards Harvey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mhossack Posted September 6, 2021 Report Share Posted September 6, 2021 Hi Mark Good that T D Fitchett have one, but I have now hit a problem that you may need to research as well. I had completed my new install but my clutch pedal would only move the clutch arm about 8mm, not enough to engage the gears. I now think there is a different amount of fluid between my 2 cylinders, so when the master cylinder is fully depressed there is not enough fluid in the slave cylinder to fully operate the clutch lever. I have not been in long so no time to do any research. Mick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marki Posted September 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2021 Hi Mick. That's sounds odd. It's definitely a 0.7 bore ? mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted September 6, 2021 Report Share Posted September 6, 2021 2 hours ago, mhossack said: Hi Mark Good that T D Fitchett have one, but I have now hit a problem that you may need to research as well. I had completed my new install but my clutch pedal would only move the clutch arm about 8mm, not enough to engage the gears. I now think there is a different amount of fluid between my 2 cylinders, so when the master cylinder is fully depressed there is not enough fluid in the slave cylinder to fully operate the clutch lever. I have not been in long so no time to do any research. Mick. Could be you have a 0.625 inch diameter master or that you are using a new master cylinder push rod that is too short. tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mhossack Posted September 6, 2021 Report Share Posted September 6, 2021 Hi Mark. I am a retired carpenter so this is way above my pay grade. Tonight I have been speaking with a friend who understands this, but needs a lot more information first, but tells me RobH post on another related post I am posting in is spot. Mick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted September 7, 2021 Report Share Posted September 7, 2021 Mick two things. 1/ why are you replacing all the clutch hydraulics? Is this to fix a problem that is still there now the parts have been changed? If so look at mechanical issues as NTC has stated. Plus the dreaded clutch fork pin shear. As NTC has stated - look at possible wear in the pedal to pedal shaft bushes & pedal clevis hole. 1/2" of lost movement on the pedal before the master cylinder push rod moves will guarantee the clutch does not release. Confirm the push rod is the correct length compared to your old one. LHD push rods are shorter than RHD. 2/ Girling Part Nos - that I used to sell..... TR5/6 (to 1972) Clutch master cylinder assy including pushrod with 0.75" bore - Girling 64068826 = Triumph 148531 for RHD and Girling 64068827 = Triumph 148530 for LHD TR6 (from 1972) Clutch master cylinder assy including pushrod with 0.7" bore - Girling 64066118 = Triumph 154932 for RHD and Girling 64066117 = Triumph 154933 for LHD Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mhossack Posted September 7, 2021 Report Share Posted September 7, 2021 Thank you Peter. The reason I am working on the hydraulics, before I purchased my TR6 about 5 years ago the car was fitted with cheap cylinders, my slave cylinder was so pitted the piston would not move. I decided to replace both only to find the old master cylinder had a 3/8 inlet and a reducer up to 7/16 to connect to the pipe, and the new master cylinder had a 7/16 inlet. Now the pipe was the reducer length short, so I thought best now to fit a new hydraulic line, especially as the flexible pipe was original and did not look great. A lot of homework for me. Mick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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