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Could have your current one sleeved with a stainless sleeve. 

Tim

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12 minutes ago, marki said:

Hi Tim.

 Unfortunately it's not an original but a TRW.

 Cheers Mark 

Can't see why a TRW couldn't be sleeved the same as original one? Unless others know differently.

Andy 

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Hi Mark.

I am going to fit a complete new clutch system on my TR6 starting tomorrow.

I purchased a pastparts refurbished AP Lockheed clutch slave cylinder 99364C Q-310 from TR Parts Richard Crewe-Read rcreweread@gmail.com from Colchester.

I purchased a NOS Girling clutch master cylinder .70 64676310 (154932) from T D Fitchett www.tdfitchett.co.uk for £66 posted, and you can feel the quality of the parts, from the cheaper aftermarket rubbish fitted just before I purchased my TR6 about 5 years ago.

They still have some in stock, I think great value for money, and where else can you get NOS parts.

Mick.

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Merlin Motor Sport do a range of Girling U.K. manufactured master cylinders

in 3 bore sizes,they may be compatible with the TR6. The push rod would have to

be changed.

 

                         Regards 

                                            Harvey

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Hi Mark

Good that T D Fitchett have one, but I have now hit a problem that you may need to research as well.

I had completed my new install but my clutch pedal would only move the clutch arm about 8mm, not enough to engage the gears.

I now think there is a different amount of fluid between my 2 cylinders, so when the master cylinder is fully depressed there is not enough fluid in the slave cylinder to fully operate the clutch lever.

I have not been in long so no time to do any research.

Mick.   

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2 hours ago, mhossack said:

Hi Mark

Good that T D Fitchett have one, but I have now hit a problem that you may need to research as well.

I had completed my new install but my clutch pedal would only move the clutch arm about 8mm, not enough to engage the gears.

I now think there is a different amount of fluid between my 2 cylinders, so when the master cylinder is fully depressed there is not enough fluid in the slave cylinder to fully operate the clutch lever.

I have not been in long so no time to do any research.

Mick.   

Could be you have a 0.625 inch diameter master or that you are using a new master cylinder push rod that is too short. 
tim

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Mick two things.

1/ why are you replacing all the clutch hydraulics?  Is this to fix a problem that is still there now the parts have been changed?  If so look at mechanical issues as NTC has stated.  Plus the dreaded clutch fork pin shear.

As NTC has stated - look at possible wear in the pedal to pedal shaft bushes & pedal clevis hole.  1/2" of lost movement on the pedal before the master cylinder push rod moves will guarantee the clutch does not release.

Confirm the push rod is the correct length compared to your old one.  LHD push rods are shorter than RHD.

 

2/  Girling Part Nos -  that I used to sell.....

TR5/6 (to 1972)  Clutch master cylinder assy including pushrod with 0.75" bore -

Girling  64068826 = Triumph 148531 for RHD  and   Girling 64068827 = Triumph 148530 for LHD

 

TR6 (from 1972) Clutch master cylinder assy including pushrod with 0.7" bore - 

Girling  64066118  = Triumph 154932 for RHD  and   Girling 64066117 = Triumph 154933 for LHD


 

Peter W

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Thank you Peter.

The reason I am working on the hydraulics, before I purchased my TR6 about 5 years ago the car was fitted with cheap cylinders, my slave cylinder was so pitted the piston would not move.

I decided to replace both only to find the old master cylinder had a 3/8 inlet and a reducer up to 7/16 to connect to the pipe, and the new master cylinder had a 7/16 inlet.

Now the pipe was the reducer length short, so I thought best now to fit a new hydraulic line, especially as the flexible pipe was original and did not look great. 

A lot of homework for me.

Mick.

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