Ralph Whitaker Posted September 4, 2021 Report Share Posted September 4, 2021 My TR3a was re built last year with all new rear brake and handbrake components, drums, shoes, springs, cylinders, adjusters and cables etc. Try as I might I have been unable to get a satisfactory handbrake. It does work, but on the last notch of the rack. Any attempt to tighten the cables up any further just results in the rear drums binding. I have started from first principles, ie disconnected the cables from the arms, stamped on the foot pedal to centralise the shoes before adjusting the shoes out until locking the drums , then backing off until the drum rotates. I then re connect the cables taking as much slack out of them as I can without them pulling the actuating levers on, and am back where I started with the handbrake just holding on the level on the last notch of the rack, but unable to hold on any sort of a slope. I am starting to think my cables are made of elastic. I noticed a recent thread regarding notches worn in the backplates from the pivots of the lever, and am going to dismantle the brakes today or tomorrow to check for this, but do not remember there being any wear there when I re-built them. Has anyone else had similar experience and found the cause. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted September 4, 2021 Report Share Posted September 4, 2021 Have you slackened the handbrake cable right off, then adjusted the shoes so the brakes are just not binding, then re-tighten the cable to give the desired free movement.. Not doing it this way can result in an ineffective handbrake, because the handbrake cable movement is already mostly used up before you start to pull it on. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted September 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2021 Last time I tried I completely disconnected the cables, adjusted the brakes, then altered the cables to just reach the arms. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted September 4, 2021 Report Share Posted September 4, 2021 (edited) My method Disconnect all cables. Adjust rear brake shoes. Connect axle cables and adjust to where they are just starting to pull the levers in the drums. (2 cables across the car) Make sure hand brake lever is fully off and pulls up and down ok. Fit hand brake lever to axle compensator cable and adjust to just start pulling the compensator. ( 1 cable front to back) Give the hand brake lever and cable a few pulls to check. When happy…… Refit all split pins and the spring that holds the front to back cable towards the centre tunnel. Re grease cable Edited September 4, 2021 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted September 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2021 I found I was able to take half an inch of free play out of the main cable without the rear brakes starting to bind which has resulted in a very effective handbrake. Thanks for the replies chaps. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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