lindatr4 Posted August 28, 2021 Report Share Posted August 28, 2021 As you can see from the photo, the little tube as come adrift from the top housing. What would be a secure way of fixing this back into its proper place? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted August 28, 2021 Report Share Posted August 28, 2021 JB weld? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted August 28, 2021 Report Share Posted August 28, 2021 (edited) That doesn't look like the original tube, it appears to be copper not brass like the other two so perhaps it has failed before? JB-Weld will hold it if you clean both mating surfaces well, back to bright metal. Don't use ordinary epoxy as that isn't fuel-proof. (snap Ian !) Edited August 28, 2021 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted August 28, 2021 Report Share Posted August 28, 2021 I’d use Loctite Retainer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted August 28, 2021 Report Share Posted August 28, 2021 You have to get the right loctite as only a few are fuel-proof Andrew, and fixing to aluminium alloy needs an appropriate primer. JB-weld is easier to get hold of. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lindatr4 Posted August 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2021 Thanks to you all, JB weld it is then. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lachouette Posted September 9, 2021 Report Share Posted September 9, 2021 The identical thing happened to me first time out with one of my brand new SUs in my '6. Being in a hurry I glued it back in with Araldite, and set off on a 60 mile journey. Its done around 15,000 miles since and the araldite is still holding, but you have reminded me that I should do a more "permanent" fix. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted September 9, 2021 Report Share Posted September 9, 2021 This was a problem 50 years ago on the Ford V6 Essex engine carb. The tube pulled out and the fuel pumped all over the engine. Fix I think was refit the tube with araldite and drill and pin one side of the tube in place from the side. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeF Posted September 11, 2021 Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 (edited) Epoxy adhesives, including JB-Weld, have excellent compatibility with petrol (including alcohol mixes). When cleaning back to bright metal ensure you have a rough finish to get good keying Mike Edited September 12, 2021 by MikeF Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted September 11, 2021 Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 On 9/9/2021 at 3:52 PM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: This was a problem 50 years ago on the Ford V6 Essex engine carb. The tube pulled out and the fuel pumped all over the engine. Fix I think was refit the tube with araldite and drill and pin one side of the tube in place from the side. Yep! - ask me how I know? John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dingle Posted September 11, 2021 Report Share Posted September 11, 2021 Machining a new tube from brass would be an easy job for anyone with a lathe and it would be a proper fit in the lid. Having the tube come loose brings visions of a flaming engine compartment to mind. Berry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lindatr4 Posted September 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2021 On 8/28/2021 at 12:27 PM, RobH said: That doesn't look like the original tube, it appears to be copper not brass like the other two so perhaps it has failed before? JB-Weld will hold it if you clean both mating surfaces well, back to bright metal. Don't use ordinary epoxy as that isn't fuel-proof. (snap Ian !) Looks like a PO couldn't get hold of the proper float chamber lid and used this as a stopgap. Yep...ordinary epoxy isn't fuel-proof. Tried this method prior to posting. Used a 1/4 tank of fuel to get home when it failed miserably. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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