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Hi all

As ever I am seeking advice on the variety of upgrades on offer for a 6.

This time its suspension.

I love driving the car but I do get a bit frustrated with shake/rattle running when on less than very good road surfaces.

My car is currently on standard suspension arrangements.

I want to keep fairly standard and was thinking of just upgrading to the heavier dampers.

Any advice on gaining smother running would be appreciated.

Best Wishes

Ernest

 

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Hi Ernest,

Not sure from your description of your “problem” that an upgrade is needed. “Shake/rattle running” sounds like a problem I had recently, which was solved by this forum. Tightening up the bolts fixing the rear standard dampers to the chassis has transformed my car. It sounds and feels a million times better even on the roughest roads.

Stiffer dampers would give a harder ride and I’m not sure that’s what you’re looking for. If it is then others with experience of these can advise I’m sure.

Rob

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I fitted poly bushes, bearings on the arms, rose jointed ARBs, heavier springs and telescopic dampers. Now the suspension is lovely and tight and has no rattles at all and the handling is vastly improved, BUT everything IN the car now rattles so in terms of rattles it really achieved nothing. Heavier dampers transmit more noise and momentum to the chassis so they are not the best option for a comfortable ride on bad roads and dampers need to be well matched to the springs they are damping so get good advice on spring rates and appropriate dampers from someone with a good reputation not a sales target. Also don't forget that suspension mounts get a lot more hammer on harder suspension so if you go in that direction you may want to get the mounting points checked and strengthened. My rear arms has numerous cracks in the alloy which could have ended very badly had it not been noticed so that is worth checking too as a part of the your overall upgrades. Mine were repaired by a decent TIG welder quite cheaply.

I think standard springs and maybe slightly uprated dampers are the way to go unless you are really planning to drive it hard.  Coupled with new bushes which are a cheap and effective way to de-rattle any suspension. Darryl at Racestorations has a good stock of bits and pieces from lightly uprated road parts to full blown racer parts and he gives honest advice founded in years of TR experience, without any pressure selling. He did the suspension and brakes for me and I am seriously impressed but it was quite an extreme job which I requested for a car I don't drive every day so I can put up with the downsides.

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I'm sure you will get lots of different opinions on what to do, but I agree with Rob that shakes and rattles imply that the suspension requires overhaul rather than upgrading. My TR6 on stock suspension gives a better ride over poor surfaces than my modern sports car ( though probably much less grip), and far less shakes and rattles than an MGB i used to own.

Mike.

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1 hour ago, Ernest said:

Thanks Rob, 'Fatjohn' and Mike for helpful responses

On balance, it looks like an overhall of current suspension, and perhaps some 'poly-bushing', should be the first steps.

Thanks again

Ernest

 

I would agree that's the best way. But don't be tempted by 'competition' or 'track' poly bushes, they give a ride hard enough to loosen your teeth!

Superflex bushes from Chris Witor are ideal for road use. They are compliant enough to be comfortable while offering good location of suspension components and in my experience last better than modern rubber replacement bushes.

Nigel

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Hi Earnest

I'd suggest as above renewing all the rubber components and mountings where needed but consider using Super Pro bushes. I've used them in a few cars in the past after trying the alternatives already mentioned and found them much better as there is less stiction allowing the suspension arms to work more independently by being in effect rubber bearings. The ride has never been harsh. Damper wise and after reading around I'm keeping the OEM rear dampers as the chassis was designed around them along with the spring rates. Fronts GAZ as they are adjustable, repairable. The std OEM offered by some of the usual suspects were too short. 

If your planning on tracking the car then I'd still go Super Pro but I'm sure others involved in racing these cars could advise better on where to go. All I'd say everyone will have their own ideas! Suspension is such a subjective thing in the end. 

If its like most convertibles there will always be a degree of scuttle shake to contend with. In the end they are 50 year old cars and they are going to be compromises all we can do is make the best of the original design.

Andy

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Yep, an overhaul of front and rear bushes and dampers I am sure will reap great rewards.

I used superpro bushes throughout the suspension and in the front differential mounts. We used rubber in the rear diff mounts for smoothness and that they have little load on them.

My TR6 is effectively rattle free, handles nicely and is all round great to drive.

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+1 for using superpro. Worked great in my car and has been pretty much rattle free for the last 5 years. 

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Ernest, there are many things that can contribute to a harsh ride. Tyre size and pressures can make a difference. My 4A rides better on 185/80 tyres than on 195/65s. Probably too late for you but when my car was rebuilt, the body guy did some judicious seam welding and we put a solid bulkhead between the cabin and the fuel tank. This stiffened the body and eliminated scuttle shake.

I used Super Pro bushes all round. I have telescopic shocks on the back and used Konis all round. I have 390lb springs in the front and 470lb ones on the back. I would start with the bushes, tighten everything up and make sure that your springs and shocks are in good condition. 

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Hi Rockies51

You open up considerations wider than the focus on suspension, which is interesting.

I have recently fitted a new set of 195/65 tyres and these made little difference to rattles.

I think I need to take a step by step approach, starting with current set up plus polybush, before perhaps progressing to

consider modern shocks. 

I have bit of a thing about the gap between top of tyres and the bodywork - I really don't like too big a gap (making the car 'sit' too high)

here, and when I have seen 5s and 6s with large gaps I assume that this is due to using modern shocks (but perhaps these can be adjusted?).

Thanks for advice

Ernest

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Ernest

If you have a smaller gap between the wheel and the wheel well, you also have less wheel travel so it is likely that you are hitting the bump stops more often which would increase the rattles.  Mine measures 380mm or 15” from the wheel centre to the wheel well front and back. 
I recall a figure of 27” from ground to wheel well as being standard. You should also check that the measurements match from side to side. 

Good luck

Barrie

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I was amazed and delighted how many rattles disappeared when I overhauled the entire suspension. New bushes all round. They happened to be Superpro, in the standard spec (blue?), and I'm sure it was a simply replacing the completely worn-out ones that brought the transformation. Don't assume you have what the manufacturer intended, and therefore need an upgrade. You may have woefully less than the manufacturer intended, and need...maintenance.

John

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One of the other issues that I think people might start seeing is related to the lack of MOT requirement. I have identified a number of rattles that come from worn ball joints in cars I have bought. On inspection the gaitors are usually shot and would have been picked up by MoT. Without MoT these get missed. 

Tim

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Elin has just posted a tr6 front suspension video. 
useful over view. 
 

 

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One persistent rattle/squeak i had on my car that i thought was suspension was the bonnet hinges.  The hole for the rivet at the pivot point had worn to an out-of-round state.  Once replaced it is nice and quiet up front now…maybe something to check.

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