John Reilly Posted August 21, 2021 Report Share Posted August 21, 2021 Good evening all, After a short first drive (act 25km) in my recently restored car I have a problem with the LH side rear hub. I did not notice anything amiss whilst driving but after returning to the car some days later I noticed a what appears to be grease/oil & grease mixed or grease that had melted and flowed through the brake drum to the ground. Wheel turns OK so a bit mystified. I tried to remove the hub but no joy, it is very tight, I do not have the special tool mentioned in the instruction manual but I made up one to use the wheel nuts against the axle end, I gave up as it seems a lot of force is required and I didn't want to pull out a wheel stud! I had the complete axle overhauled by a "UK Expert" so I did not expect any issues. Any advice welcome especially if anyone has had a similar experience Thank you John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted August 21, 2021 Report Share Posted August 21, 2021 Check the axle shaft total end float across the car with the wheels off the ground. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 22, 2021 Report Share Posted August 22, 2021 I wonder if you over greased the wheel bearing, & forced grease past the seal. (I know I have !) Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted August 22, 2021 Report Share Posted August 22, 2021 Good point Bob. Over enthusiastic greasing. There is a relief hole for the grease in the outer face of the flange which should not be covered by the drum. The genuine drum has an half moon cutout on its inner location diameter that should be fitted where that relief hole is. Clear the hole with a small twist drill. That said if the axle was professionally rebuilt that hole would have been cleared when the hubs were removed. Plus the end float will have been set correctly. Unless the axle was just an axle less shafts and brake backplates etc and the op built it up themselves. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 22, 2021 Report Share Posted August 22, 2021 (edited) Did not know that - will check mine next time I am down under. Is that the case for Lockheed & Girling axles ? Bob Edited August 22, 2021 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted August 22, 2021 Report Share Posted August 22, 2021 Hub removal requires either the correct Churchill tool (rarely found) or use of a 20 ton press. However, the hub MUST be properly and adequately supported if a press is used or else the hub can get bent in the process. I had a similar leakage on my left rear hub recently- (but not as much pouring out. Tony Sheach and his mechanic friend, Mario, discovered that the hub had been bent slightly, allowing leakage. As Tony had an old axle lying about, Mario removed from it the hub and half shaft complete, cleaned it thoroughly and then, with shims which I had brought with me, fitted into my axle. It's great to have such helpful friends! Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted August 22, 2021 Report Share Posted August 22, 2021 25 minutes ago, Lebro said: Did not know that - will check mine next time I am down under. Is that the case for Lockheed & Girling axles ? Bob Girling axle. Will add photo later today when I get in the shed as I have a separated axle I am offering for sale from a TR 4. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Reilly Posted August 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2021 Good morning gentlemen, Thank you for the responses. The complete axle was overhauled by the specialist. I believe I did not overgrease the bearing, 3 strokes. Interestingly, when I removed the axle from the chassis originally it had a smaller brake drum on that wheel, that was replaced by the correct one during overhaul. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted August 22, 2021 Report Share Posted August 22, 2021 56 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Girling axle. Will add photo later today when I get in the shed as I have a separated axle I am offering for sale from a TR 4. Peter W Bit of misinformation here. Y The hole in the flange does not go through into the grease gallery but would allow over greasing to express/be thrown out through it due to the concave inner surface of the flange by the big seal. The cutouts in the 10" drum inner diameter can be seen as compared to a 9" later drum. See photos Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted August 22, 2021 Report Share Posted August 22, 2021 Pay close attention to IanC’s warning about bent hub flanges. when I rebuilt my axle, I modified an old hub puller that I had previously used on a Skoda - it didn’t offer enough support to the hub flange and bent it. I then took the other one to a machine shop to use their press and guess what they bent that one. Rgds Ian I was fortunate to pick up a pair of replacements for £60 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted August 22, 2021 Report Share Posted August 22, 2021 1 minute ago, Ian Vincent said: Pay close attention to IanC’s warning about bent hub flanges. when I rebuilt my axle, I modified an old hub puller that I had previously used on a Skoda - it didn’t offer enough support to the hub flange and bent it. I then took the other one to a machine shop to use their press and guess what they bent that one. Rgds Ian I was fortunate to pick up a pair of replacements for £60 Classic problem, but a good price for a pair of flanges. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted August 22, 2021 Report Share Posted August 22, 2021 The two cut-outs in the drum are at 90 degrees to the holes through which the two short screws pass to secure the drum to the hub. Hence, it doesn't matter how one fixes the drum to the hub because there will always be a cut-out over the relief hole in the hub. That's a relief - I had never noticed and I was looking at my TR2/3 and TR4 Workshop Manuals to see whether, for nearly 60 years, I have being missing something! What concerns me is that I had a leakage fixed on that same left rear hub by a TR professional in 2017, and I do not believe that I have whacked that corner of the car against a kerb since then. So, was the hub bent before that repair in 2017 and not spotted, or did the hub get damaged when it was pressed off during the repair? In the garage I have now a bent hub connected to its half shaft, and will have to get them separated sometime. Meanwhile, they make an excellent paper weight! Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 22, 2021 Report Share Posted August 22, 2021 If it's any help I do have the right Churchill tool to remove the hubs and even with that it can be a struggle Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted August 22, 2021 Report Share Posted August 22, 2021 Stuart - you are ever helpful, but John is in Eire (Republic of Ireland), so you would have to throw it very hard to reach him! Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 22, 2021 Report Share Posted August 22, 2021 4 minutes ago, ianc said: Stuart - you are ever helpful, but John is in Eire (Republic of Ireland), so you would have to throw it very hard to reach him! Ian Cornish I do have a measurement drawing of the puller so a good engineering shop could make him one. Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Reilly Posted August 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2021 Stuart, Thank you for the suggestion. I was reading up the manual and it seems that a special tool is also required for assembling the hubs. This is the reason I sent the complete axle to a specialist as I did not have the correct tools or access to any. In this case I will now investigate further when I have the time and try clocking the hub for true and end float. If it needs surgery, I think I will just remove the complete axle and bring it to a local transmission supplier and see if they have an "old guy" who remembers old machinery? I find it a bit strange that when I removed the split-pin from the castellated hub retaining nut, it was just finger-tight? For the grease to come out and pool as it did, in my opinion it had to either be hot and/or carried out by the final drive lubricant or a combination which may indicate inner seal problems, I'm puzzled. If there is insufficient end float, would that cause heat to build up? John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidBee Posted August 24, 2021 Report Share Posted August 24, 2021 (edited) On 8/22/2021 at 11:02 PM, John Reilly said: Stuart, Thank you for the suggestion. I was reading up the manual and it seems that a special tool is also required for assembling the hubs. This is the reason I sent the complete axle to a specialist as I did not have the correct tools or access to any. In this case I will now investigate further when I have the time and try clocking the hub for true and end float. If it needs surgery, I think I will just remove the complete axle and bring it to a local transmission supplier and see if they have an "old guy" who remembers old machinery? I find it a bit strange that when I removed the split-pin from the castellated hub retaining nut, it was just finger-tight? For the grease to come out and pool as it did, in my opinion it had to either be hot and/or carried out by the final drive lubricant or a combination which may indicate inner seal problems, I'm puzzled. If there is insufficient end float, would that cause heat to build up? John John I think the machining shop in Glanmire could do it. I asked them yesterday. You'd have to get halfshaft and hub assembly off and they'd do it. If I were you, get the push fit wheel studs used for the front disc braked wheels while you are at it. From CMS, but they could probably do the studs too in E8. Edited August 24, 2021 by DavidBee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Reilly Posted August 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2021 Thanks David, I will assess how to proceed when I have investigated further, I can't get to the car this week as away. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidBee Posted August 25, 2021 Report Share Posted August 25, 2021 3 minutes ago, John Reilly said: Thanks David, I will assess how to proceed when I have investigated further, I can't get to the car this week as away. John Ok. There is a mechanic in Glanmire who took off 1 rear hub then got Glanmire machine shop to pull it off half shaft and fit screw type wheel studs. You could just take the assembly straight to the machine shop and they will do it for you. Do both sides and fit press fit mushroom type or get them to make them for you and fit. They are not expensive. David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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