Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Clive, I have just popped the bonnet of my 7V8 and it looks like you might be able to release the catch if you raise the car on a ramp and use a long thin rod or similar. It certainly looks as if it’s accessible from underneath.  If all else fails I would explore this possibility.

Good luck and don’t forget to post a reply when you solved it. People rarely do this, and it may be helpful to anyone else who might experience the same problem.

Rodders.

Added later.     whoops, the above won’t apply if you have the large tray under the catch, mine has been removed. Sorry.

7CA90792-CE3A-4A91-A493-679EA89D0721.jpeg

Edited by modelbuilder
Link to post
Share on other sites

My TR4 bonnet stuck twice during my nut and bolt resto. Until somebody , who has hands on experience with TR7 / 8s

comes along , have you tried the two person trick. One in the car and the other person standing by the rear edge of the the bonnet , hands placed 1/3rd and 2/3rds across the bonnet  edge.

On the " mutual "count of  1-2-3 the person on bonnet duty presses down firmly with flattened hands  and releases the pressure immediately. The person in the hot seat pulls on the release cable a fraction of a second after the " 3 " count.

Timing is everything , the aim is to compress the spring ( holding the catch engaged whilst moving ) allowing the catch to

release. Rather than continuing to hold the bonnet down , the compressed spring pressure , when released , will help

throw the bonnet open. It might take a couple of goes to get the timing right between the two of you but worth ago.

 

Once open , put an old blanket over the bulkhead panel / wing edge so you don't close it again in error. Clean up the mechanism ( carb cleaner , suitable protection ). Check the bonnet hinges aren't slack. Re set the striker plate by

putting some Blutack in the " hole where the " striker pin " hits. Naturally it should be dead central. Slowly lowering

the bonnet sufficiently to make an impression in the Blutack. If the retaining bolts are loose that maybe the cause of 

the no go situation. To continue , slacken bolts adjust the plate as required. Bolt down tightly when optimum position is reached. Prop up bonnet , lightly oil the release cable and grease the mechanism ( after removing the Blutack ).

Bob

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Clive. The bonnet pull on our 7 has a habit on feeling like you have pulled it all the way and the bonnet won't release.

The truth is the last few millimetres of travel on the cable can be very hard to get.

i have found if you push the handle all the way away from you and then give it a good fast firm pull the bonnet will pop.

Good luck and let me know how you get on.

Cheers. Laurence

Link to post
Share on other sites

At the back of the bonnet you have the rows of louvres.

If you look closely at the mesh below them you might be able to see through some circular cutouts (not all cars are the same!).

The pillars that connect to the release cable are down quite a bit and towards the screen, you need a fine torch to find them!-and great care with paintwork of course. The pillar&screw holding the inner cable is fixed!-it is the `cable outer` pillar you need to move, it all feels a bit counter-intuative!

With a thin screwdriver of goodish length you should/might be able to push the pillar enough to release the bonnet catch,  watch the paintwork!! You have to push the pillar towards the passenger side RHD car.-this is the theory, I`ve never tried it and it all looks very tight for space.

Edited by Howard Frazer
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
On 9/17/2021 at 7:44 AM, Clive Pearce said:

Oh dear! None of the suggestions received actually worked. Has anybody had bonnet being stuck on a TR 7/8?

Any more suggestion on how to get it up? ('pun' unintended!)

Clive. 

Hi Clive,

I don't know if you got your bonnet open a month ago, but I just joined the forum and read this post.  I have always wondered how I would get the bonnet open on our car if the cable broke.  So I decided to experiment.

I found a way to do it, at least on our LHD US spec 1980 TR8.  Maybe this is not an original idea, it wouldn't surprise me if it has been discovered by others, but I have not seen a reference to it before.

In our car, the release handle is on the left side of the car.  The cable pulls on a post (part of the latch mechanism), and it pulls it towards the left side of the car.  I straightened a wire coat hanger and bent a small hook at the end.  With the help of a bright flashlight/torch shining through the bonnet vents, I was able to just barely see the post.  To find the post, shine the light around until you see the wire pull cable, and follow that towards the right side of the car until it reaches the post.  There is a screw protruding from the top of the post.  While holding the torch in position, feed the wire hook through the scuttle vent slot, and through the hole in the mesh.  Hook the wire hook over the screw shank, and pull towards the left side of the car.  That will operate the release.  I tested it, and was actually able to get the bonnet to pop open.  There doesn't seem to be much risk of scratching paint, fortunately.

The pictures show the arrangement of the mechanisms, and where the hook goes.  When I took the pictures with the bonnet closed, I had left a small light under there to illuminate for the camera.  The arrow shows the post you want to hook onto.

I did find one other possibility: if the cabling is intact and not broken, I was able to release the bonnet by simply grabbing the outer sheath of the cable under the dash where it comes through the firewall, then pull it through the firewall into the interior of the car.

I think I will leave my coat hanger with the hook in the boot from now on, just in case!

Good luck,

Dave

IMG_2530 coat hanger with small hook on end.JPG

IMG_2526 hook on top of post under screw head.JPG

IMG_2528 wire hooked on and pulling post back to release position.JPG

IMG_2534 wire through vent with flashlight.JPG

IMG_2533 Arrow shows post - wire through grille and hooked on post.JPG

Edited by BG Dave
typo
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.