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TR5 dash colour


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Hi

My 5 dash always was light in colour (Teak or whatever) 

As the veneer is cracked in a few places i thought i would ask a dash restorer can it be sorted so my original dash is used

He said they were dark in colour when originally fitted but lighten up as they fade

Now then as i was only 7 when the car was built i wasnt around to see it fade

is this sales talk to buy a new one or was he right (obviously he said it was easier and cheaper to buy a new one and it would be dark when done ???)

any takers on this one

cheers

david

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Edited by dblenk
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David,

I've recently used Chapman & Cliff at Nantwich to cut me an extra central hole for a clock and repair a chip in the veneer of my 23 year old walnut dash for my TR5 restoration.

I have no connection with them but am very pleased with the result. Could be worth a try.

Dave McD

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22 hours ago, Dave McDonald said:

David,

I've recently used Chapman & Cliff at Nantwich to cut me an extra central hole for a clock and repair a chip in the veneer of my 23 year old walnut dash for my TR5 restoration.

I have no connection with them but am very pleased with the result. Could be worth a try.

Dave McD

HI Dave thanks for that will get in touch and check it out

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Just beware, their quality control ( being generous) in my case was deficient, when they re-veneered my 4A dash it came back with elliptical holes for the two warning lights. I sent it back and they rectified the problems.

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On 8/17/2021 at 7:12 PM, Peter V W said:

David, This is my original TR5 dash, don’t think the colour has changed.

I did change it to a burr walnut dash, but kept the original dash for originality.

Peter

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Hi Dave,

This is exactly as I recall my dash in terms of colour and sheen. Peters also has the traditional 'cabinet maker' joint in the centre where the veneer is opened out giving a symmetrical pattern on both sides of the dash. To the best of my knowledge only '5s had this feature as I've never seen a TR6 with anything other than one piece of veneer going straight across.

Not declaring the above as gospel, but just my experience.

Cheers

Chris 

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4 hours ago, Chris Mountford said:

Hi Dave,

This is exactly as I recall my dash in terms of colour and sheen. Peters also has the traditional 'cabinet maker' joint in the centre where the veneer is opened out giving a symmetrical pattern on both sides of the dash. To the best of my knowledge only '5s had this feature as I've never seen a TR6 with anything other than one piece of veneer going straight across.

Not declaring the above as gospel, but just my experience.

Cheers

Chris 

HI Chris that was my thoughts (and others) now i need to find one

there seems to always something else to find on this bloody car thought i had everything as i checked my dash doesnt have the joint in the middle cant remeber what i did 40 year ago but my dad french polished the one thats on but got no joint

long way to go before fitting the dash but checking al the parts to see if they match originality

good to see you at the IWE shame we didnt get more time to chat

cheers david

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I have my tr5 original dash stored at home in France and it’s a light colour. 

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Hi All

A little bit of info which i didnt know

the early 5s had the split and mirror finish, the later 5s (mine is feb 69) had the full grain no split which is why mine didnt have the split

i have also googled american walnut crown cut and it can be sourced so i guess its a case of getting it sorted when the time comes ???

cheers

david

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Hi David,

I removed my old veneer and installed new veneer myself with waterproof (white) wood glue, a rewarding job to do yourselves.

Waldi

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I've had my 1968 car since 1978. It had a "passenger liability warning" plastic label attached to the glovebox door when I got it, shielding that part of the dash from UV etc. The dash/glovebox is impressed with matching numbers 6706.

I removed the label and varnish about two weeks ago (using a heat-gun on low setting) and lightly sanded the veneer. I found that there was a much darker area where the label had been, which surprised me because the general consensus is that the dashes are a fairly light colour. However, at the IWE I saw the Classical Dash stand with their example of a TR American Walnut dash in a much darker colour. They said that it was the original colour, and that Moss had been incorrectly describing the dashes as Teak. The Classical Dash colour would seem to corroborate the darker colour on my glovebox door.

I'm currently trying to find a wood dye that matches the centre of my glovebox. I've worked my way through Wilko wood dyes - Teak, Dark Mahogany, Indian Rosewood and Jacobean Dark Oak. Not quite there yet.

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Bill thats the same conversation i had, hence my investigation or question

googled American walnut crown cut veneer and it does look darker

it classical dash are correct its just a case of buying a new one ??

is yours an early 5 as i notice the split

David

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Hi David - mine's CP3047, registered 24/12/1968.

I'm trying to keep as much of the original car as possible (hence the wood dye), or use oem spare parts where possible. The dyes are giving a reddish hue rather than a dull earth brown of the American Walnut. A last resort for me would be to replace the veneer, but I need to compare cost v authenticity. Classical Dashes make everything new, so not for me, and quite expensive (think I was quoted £450 at the IWE).

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Hi Dave,

sure, if you PM me your mail adress I will send you what I have.
I struggle with uploading here.

This is the process I followed:

1) The old veneer came of really easy by grinding with P60 paper (be careful, the veneer is rather soft), especially at the edges.

2) I did some “test glues” of the new veneer on a piece of plywood: Too much gives dark stains through the veneer, too little will result in poor bonding. I glued both the veneer and the plywood, this worked best for me.

3) I then glued the veneer in one go (it came on a roll, cost me 20 euro and was enough for 2 dash boards), using thick wood both sides to sandwich the dash to compress with many C-clamps, and, this is important, plastic kitchen foil on both sides of the dash.

4) Once dry, I carefully cut-out the holes with a narrow surgery-knife which worked ok on the radii, but left some veneer that I later sanded off. I also cut the lid  free in this step.

5) The “sunk edges” around the gages were painted by hand with a very dark brown, this is what my dash was.

6) I then sanded the dash with P600 paper, test-fitted the lid to make an even gap by careful sanding.

7) The final step followed by 2 or 3 layers of 2K-semi gloss paint (rattle cans with a cartridge inside. I repeated the paint/sanding back a couple of times until I was happy, think I used 2 cans in total (keep them cool in-between the painting to slow down the curing).

That’s the process I followed.

Cheers,
Waldi

 

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