Ronald Morris Posted August 16, 2021 Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 My 1976 TR6 is not going pass 70 mph it seems to die when I press the pedal. Can the grade of gas help this problem? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted August 16, 2021 Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 Welcome, We really need to know if its PI or carbs first of all. If carbs which ones. What petrol are you using, and where are you based please. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted August 16, 2021 Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ronald Morris Posted August 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 what is PI ? I have the carbs that are original to the car. I am based in Philadelphia, Pa. I put 87 octane from sunoco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ronald Morris Posted August 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 Thanks for your reply also. I was beginning to think this site was not legit Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ransomes256 Posted August 16, 2021 Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 As you are on carbs is the fuel pump supplying enough fuel to keep the bowls full? Is the filter clean? Neil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ronald Morris Posted August 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 It has been suggested that I put Sunoco's highest grade. So I am going to run the old petrol out and fill it with the new Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ronald Morris Posted August 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 Everything is new. I just got it detailed with new everything Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ransomes256 Posted August 16, 2021 Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 Although the grade of fuel will have some effect I doubt that is the main issue. It may be wise to check the ignition timing. Neil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ronald Morris Posted August 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 Thanks, I will bring that question to the men/ mechanics at Triumph rescue tomorrow. They are located in Bally Pa. and they did all my work. I'll be in contact with you all tomorrow. If you can think of anything else that may be the issue I would appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Ron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted August 16, 2021 Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 I'd check the fuel filter and ignition timing for starters. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted August 17, 2021 Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 Having the car detailed where I live means it has been thoroughly cleaned. Detailing has nothing to do with tuning or repairing the car. Most TR problems are ignition so that needs to be sorted out first. Even with new parts the problem can remain because the parts are defective. Once the ignition system is proven to be working correctly with timing right move onto the fuel system. If the car has an original fuel pump it is unlikely to be a problem, possible but unlikely. Mechanical fuel pumps either work or they don't, if it fails there will be no fuel to the carbies and the engine won't go. There could be blockages in the fuel lines preventing enough fuel getting to the engine to sustain higher power settings. The first check here is the fuel filter/s. It is possible the carbies need a good tune. If they are running extremely lean you could be running out of puff at higher speeds. But you can't tune the carbies until the rest of the engine tune is correct, they are done last. If you aren't handy mechanically either get a local owner with experience to help you, as we do here, or let the mechanics sort it out, just tell them the symptoms. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DRD Posted August 17, 2021 Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 Hi Ron, check that the throttle is opening properly, is the linkage OK? Will it open 100%? Darren Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted August 17, 2021 Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 (edited) 10 hours ago, Ronald Morris said: Thanks, I will bring that question to the men/ mechanics at Triumph rescue tomorrow. They are located in Bally Pa. and they did all my work. I'll be in contact with you all tomorrow. If you can think of anything else that may be the issue I would appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Ron Welcome Ron, Levity now. Yes check when you push the accelerator pedal to the floor the carb throttles move through the full movement (90 degrees) Another forum user had similar issue and it turned out to be the rubber connector hose in the fuel line from the tank to the pump. The inside of the pipe had degraded and swollen so the hole was substantially reduced, this was due to reaction with the fuel passing through it. He replaced the hoses that joined the rigid pipes together in the main fuel line and now drives gets full throttle and engine revs in most gears. Cheers Peter W Edited August 17, 2021 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted August 17, 2021 Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 Was it running fine during your ownership? If so what, if anything was changed prior to the problem starting. That's the logical starting point. After that change one thing at a time. Check timing, plugs, points, condenser, coil. Check fuel flow is adequate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted August 17, 2021 Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 Possibly far too retarded spark. Try setting the static timing to around 18 deg BTDC, which is about right for a low compression head and disconnect both vacuum capsules. If that impoves driving get the distributor overhauled. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted August 17, 2021 Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 Hi Ron, the octan number of fuel (ROZ /MOZ) has nothing to do with the fuel's energie or power. It is an indication for the not self ignition of the fuel when compressed by the piston (and the engines heat). But with higher octan you can built an engine with higher compression - and this is more powerful, not the fuel itself. Sunocos 87 octan fuel must be wrong or MOZ (reference is a hot engine at high revs), at Europe ROZ is common (reference is a cold engine at low revs), this gives higher numbers, common is 95-100 octane ROZ. Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted August 17, 2021 Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 (edited) 87 octom MOZ made me wonder, this would be very good quality. And indeed Google says at the USA is (ROZ+MOZ) x 0.5 common. 87 US octan is about 91 Europe octan, not possible to buy here at Germany. I use 95 octan, some of us use 98 octan. Test some 90 or 93 US octane fuel .... and look for ignition and carbs / fuel supply BUT please not, more octan anyway is not more energie Edited August 17, 2021 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted August 17, 2021 Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 On 8/17/2021 at 7:08 AM, Ronald Morris said: what is PI ? I have the carbs that are original to the car. I am based in Philadelphia, Pa. I put 87 octane from sunoco If the octane rating is too low for your timing settings the engine will ping- I don't know whether 87 is OK as the US and Australia measure octane ratings differently. But your fuel must be fresh. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
poolboy Posted August 18, 2021 Report Share Posted August 18, 2021 If they are Zenith-Stromberg carbs with the engine NOT running...put a brick or something on the accelerator pedal so it's 'floored' Then look at your carbs to see if their throttle stop levers are in firm contact with the 'stop' Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted August 18, 2021 Report Share Posted August 18, 2021 I have had issues with other cars regarding the ignition centrifugal advance. In my latest project (a Mk1 cortina) the car suddenly lost its ability to exceed 50 mph. I checked the dizzy and the centrifugal advance had jammed. When I dismantled the dizzy I found a screw like that used to hold the points on to the baseplate jammed in the mechanism. It hadn't come from the currently installed points as all screws where there.. when I looked some more there were 2 more similar screws in the bottom of the dizzy.. looked like someone kept dropping them when they were fitting the points . Unfortunately the dizzy was toast but fitted a new recon and all was fab! Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnC Posted August 18, 2021 Report Share Posted August 18, 2021 On 8/17/2021 at 7:08 AM, Ronald Morris said: what is PI ? PI = Lucas Mk II Petrol Injection. Irrelevant in your case as your car has carburettors. Adds a whole new dimension to the joys and sorrows of a car so equipped (they weren't sold in USA). I love it. Others, not so much. Some ( @Tom FremontI'm looking at you!) say Webers are the only way to get fuel into a TR 6 cylinder. May they live long enough to see the errors of their ways Cheers, John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barkerwilliams Posted August 19, 2021 Report Share Posted August 19, 2021 You mentioned the car dying when you pressed the accelerator. The only thing that really changes is the centrifugal bob weights which adjust the ignition timing. As the bob weights move out they cause the base plate of the points to rotate which adjusts the ignition timing. On the base plate inside the distributor there is a two inch long earth wire that completes the electrical circuit for the points. After fifty years of flexing that may have cracked causing a break in the circuit as the base plate rotate at higher revs. it is worth a quick look. Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brent C Posted August 20, 2021 Report Share Posted August 20, 2021 Hi You say your car will not do more than 70 MPH. This would be about 3,000 RPM. Will your car rev more than 3,000 RPM in other gears? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.