DavidBee Posted September 6, 2021 Report Share Posted September 6, 2021 10 hours ago, stuart said: They do make a difference in keeping your engine cleaner. Stuart. No discussion there, Stuart. Thanks! It is going back on. Will place it further down where it isn't so in the way. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted September 7, 2021 Report Share Posted September 7, 2021 On 9/6/2021 at 5:33 PM, Waldi said: Hi John, Yes, ideally the flame trap should be self-draining back to the engine, but the connection to the valve cover is horizontal and the rubber pipes are straight, not angled, so the ideal orientation (vertical) cannot be achieved unless you modify things. To help the self-draining, I made the pipe from flame trap to plenum a bit longer, so it bends more upwards. Now at least the condensed oil (mist) in the second pipe drains back to the engine. I installed a new flame trap during my resto, it appeared to be good quality and is relatively cheap. Cheers, Waldi Exactly what I just did. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Y Posted October 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2021 On 8/17/2021 at 9:39 AM, Waldi said: Hi Rob, A friend with a TR6 had this issue, he “fixed” it by a thick layer of sealant along the gasket without removing the head after thoroughly cleaning it first. I think it will not last forever but so far so good. Tempting solution. Waldi Hi Waldi, I tried this today. I’ll leave the sealant to set for a while before starting the engine. Fingers crossed this does the trick. (I’m not that optimistic, but you never know) I’ll let you know. Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted October 8, 2021 Report Share Posted October 8, 2021 Good luck Rob, I hope it works for you too. Cheers, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Y Posted October 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2021 On 10/8/2021 at 7:53 PM, Waldi said: Good luck Rob, I hope it works for you too. Cheers, Waldi I took it for a spin the other day, only locally so not that far, but out for about an hour, including a bit of dual carriageway, so up to and maybe a bit over 70 for a spell ;-) No oil leaking from the head gasket area! Time will tell but so far so good! Cheers for that Waldi. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted October 24, 2021 Report Share Posted October 24, 2021 Good to hear that Rob, hope it remains tight. Cheers, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MartinWard Posted January 22, 2022 Report Share Posted January 22, 2022 Loctite SI 5980 black silicone gasket compound both sides of the gasket over ALL contact surfaces. Has worked for me on 4 x 6 cyl Triumph engines. Unfortunately, the head studs on distributor side are inboard of pushrod cavity as against exhaust side where they are much closer to the edge of the block. This makes a perfect seal virtually impossible even if head and block are perfectly flat. This is the preferred process of the majority of folks working with these engines regularly. The only thing that varies is the choice of compound. External application of compounds can never be permanent and looks like a bodge ! ( which it is ). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted January 22, 2022 Report Share Posted January 22, 2022 The block can twist only cure is too deck the block any good engine builder will tell you that Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted January 23, 2022 Report Share Posted January 23, 2022 That's why BMW allegedly scoured the scrap yards for donor blocks back in the day for their 1.5l turbo F1 engines back in the 80s. That way all the warping and stresses relieved. Machined flat. Then good for half an hour's quali at over 1500bhp. None of these anaemic sounding battery hybrids. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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