Moliver Posted August 10, 2021 Report Share Posted August 10, 2021 Hi All, Although replaced by the preowner to a new one, I do have a leakage on my radiator (filler neck connection to top body). Questions 1: is it possible to exchange the radiator without taking the front mask off ? I do have an electrical radiator and no fan. The radiator itself may come out but I am not sure if there will be any conflict with the neck ? Question 2: I may have the radiator ovehauled/repaired or opt for an exchange to a aluminum version. Any argument against such aluminum replacement (except originality) ? Advise welcome Cheers Oliver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ransomes256 Posted August 10, 2021 Report Share Posted August 10, 2021 I have a TR4 with the long neck radiator and had mine rebuilt with reinforcing around the neck support and no starting handle hole which increases the effective cooling area. Sorry unable to comment about removal on the TR2. Neil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rod1883 Posted August 10, 2021 Report Share Posted August 10, 2021 In my experience, no it is not possible to remove the radiator without removing the front apron. I would recommend having your own radiator re-cored as described by Neil, and as I have had done. If your only issue is the connection of the neck to the main header of the radiator then you might be able to have the joint cleaned and rebrazed/soldered in situ - could be worth asking you local repair specialist if this is an option. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 10, 2021 Report Share Posted August 10, 2021 Always best to get some extra webs under the neck to re-enforce, I would remove the front apron, yes I know people say it can be removed without but due to the possible damage done I wouldnt. Removal of the starting handle hole is definitely desirable unless your really into originality. Dont go down the Aluminium route as theres too many rubbish ones around. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harlequin Posted August 10, 2021 Report Share Posted August 10, 2021 My radiator also had a leak along the joint between the filler neck and header tank. So before I went to the trouble of removing the radiator I thought it was worth a go re-soldering the joint. My wife has a really good soldering iron that she uses for her glass work, so I snuck out to the garage when she was out armed with her iron and managed to make a fairly good job of it and so far (about 2000 miles) no problem. If yours is good apart from the one leak, there is nowt to lose by giving it a go, and if it don't work out you have to take the rad out anyway. George Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted August 10, 2021 Report Share Posted August 10, 2021 I posted this on the Forum on 6th July 2009: Several years ago, I had a weep from the joint between the inlet pipe from the thermostat and the body of the radiator. Glen Hewett (Protek) said two words to me: JB Weld. I lowered the water level, cleaned the area thoroughly with a wire brush, applied to goo and waited 24 hours before topping-up the system. It has not leaked since. That fix worked until, last year, I replaced the radiator and the Kenlowe fan with an alloy radiator and an attached Revotec fan. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted August 10, 2021 Report Share Posted August 10, 2021 Radiator Extension leaks are often caused by accidental use as rest for hands and arms……….not strong enough and they crack. Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Black Forest TR3A Posted August 11, 2021 Report Share Posted August 11, 2021 Hallo Oliver, there's a very good radiator service at Lörrach: http://www.british-classic-cars.de/kuehlerbau.htm Kühlerbau Lörrach Salvatore Battaglia Ob der Gass 25 Schlachthofstraße 79540 Lörrach Tel. 07621/915 900 oder 89514 Fax 07621/915 901 oder 84299 Sig. Battaglia has done two radiators for my cars (Alfa Spider and MGB), both of high quality. Not cheap but worth every €. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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