dblenk Posted August 4, 2021 Report Share Posted August 4, 2021 (edited) Well after 28 years off the road, two tr6 builds, covid, oil price and anything else life has thrown my way its started going great then bang 1969 car bites back those screws into the wings two are rock solid even using my torque driver i have put some liquid spanner and WD40 for overnight soak any useful hints David how do you get the photo to rotate Edited August 4, 2021 by dblenk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted August 4, 2021 Report Share Posted August 4, 2021 Very nice David, Looking forward to seeing rebuild it. here you go right way up Regards Harry TR5 Nutter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dblenk Posted August 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2021 6 minutes ago, harrytr5 said: Very nice David, Looking forward to seeing rebuild it. here you go right way up Regards Harry TR5 Nutter thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted August 5, 2021 Report Share Posted August 5, 2021 Hi Dave, I’m jealous:) WD-40 may not be the best available, but hopefully does the job. If accessible, drill out the screw, first use a center punch and start with a small sharp (new) drill, like 3 mm. Then a next drill can be 1 mm bigger, to avoid jamming/seizing (hope that’s the right word). Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dblenk Posted August 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2021 1 hour ago, Waldi said: Hi Dave, I’m jealous:) WD-40 may not be the best available, but hopefully does the job. If accessible, drill out the screw, first use a center punch and start with a small sharp (new) drill, like 3 mm. Then a next drill can be 1 mm bigger, to avoid jamming/seizing (hope that’s the right word). Waldi Hi yes will drill out if the WD40 doesnt work, i was really interested in whats the best stuff for releasing bolts etc i guess i am going to have a few my car is an original 1969 and the liquid spanner etc i have if from the eighties so maybe better things on the market these days cheers david Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted August 5, 2021 Report Share Posted August 5, 2021 Hi, From the look of things you are not going to be worried by a bit of burnt paint, so cook the screws with a fine nosed flame, just about any stuck nut or screw will yield if heated to cherry red. Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
glasgow4a Posted August 5, 2021 Report Share Posted August 5, 2021 As discussed earlier make your own penetrating oil, 50% Acetone 50% ATF. works well cheers Ian. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dblenk Posted August 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2021 Cheers everyone bolts are out great stuff interesting making your own penetrating oil !!!! David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted August 5, 2021 Report Share Posted August 5, 2021 2 hours ago, dblenk said: Hi yes will drill out if the WD40 doesnt work, i was really interested in whats the best stuff for releasing bolts etc i guess i am going to have a few my car is an original 1969 and the liquid spanner etc i have if from the eighties so maybe better things on the market these days cheers david Not WD 40, it doesn't have enough lubrication properties. If you can get it to the screws try Aero Kroil which "" Loosens the toughest metal parts, or your money back" I've never asked for my money back yet, it has a real searching property and will leach itself between rusted components, otherwise diesel works well. Tip try tightening the screw first to break the bond even if it only flexes it, then try the Aero Kroil oil or diesel and give an hour or so to work. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 5, 2021 Report Share Posted August 5, 2021 1 minute ago, Motorsport Mickey said: Not WD 40, it doesn't have enough lubrication properties. If you can get it to the screws try Aero Kroil which "" Loosens the toughest metal parts, or your money back" I've never asked for my money back yet, it has a real searching property and will leach itself between rusted components, otherwise diesel works well. Tip try tightening the screw first to break the bond even if it only flexes it, then try the Aero Kroil oil or diesel and give an hour or so to work. Mick Richards Not cheap but as Mick says its good stuff Aerokroil Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dblenk Posted August 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2021 ok i did try and tighten it one of the old tricks thats what i am after as WD40 was stuff i used way back thought there would be something better ebay £26 spot on cheers david Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Mountford Posted August 5, 2021 Report Share Posted August 5, 2021 Hi Dave, Great to see you have started on the long anticipated rebuild. I always remember it as a really good car and the picture shows what a great starting point it is. You will recall that most years in the 80's and 90's we used to meet up at the Lakes and the International to discuss the merits of Royal Blue TR5's when they were just 'old smokers' and the upwardly mobile types had TR6s. It's great to know that we have held onto them for such a long time (the date in my logbook says I took ownership on 23 March 1979 !) and of course our very infrequent meetings have gone on for so many years. I have a couple of projects on the go at the moment so am not in a position to start mine but you've certainly focused my mind on what will be a massive rebuild. I will watch your posts with interest and I must admit a little envy ! Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted August 5, 2021 Report Share Posted August 5, 2021 See this for release agents Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kenrow Posted August 6, 2021 Report Share Posted August 6, 2021 Here in the states we use PB Blaster, works great! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dblenk Posted August 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2021 15 hours ago, Chris Mountford said: Hi Dave, Great to see you have started on the long anticipated rebuild. I always remember it as a really good car and the picture shows what a great starting point it is. You will recall that most years in the 80's and 90's we used to meet up at the Lakes and the International to discuss the merits of Royal Blue TR5's when they were just 'old smokers' and the upwardly mobile types had TR6s. It's great to know that we have held onto them for such a long time (the date in my logbook says I took ownership on 23 March 1979 !) and of course our very infrequent meetings have gone on for so many years. I have a couple of projects on the go at the moment so am not in a position to start mine but you've certainly focused my mind on what will be a massive rebuild. I will watch your posts with interest and I must admit a little envy ! Chris Cheers Chris yes we had TR5's before they were rare !!!!! and expensive you couldnt buy a 6 in the mid eighties they got snapped up that quick, hope to post regular photos obviously depending on money and time hoping to be complete for the 40th anniversary of ownership 2024 Are you going to the IWE i will keep an eye out for you Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 6, 2021 Report Share Posted August 6, 2021 16 hours ago, Chris Mountford said: Hi Dave, Great to see you have started on the long anticipated rebuild. I always remember it as a really good car and the picture shows what a great starting point it is. You will recall that most years in the 80's and 90's we used to meet up at the Lakes and the International to discuss the merits of Royal Blue TR5's when they were just 'old smokers' and the upwardly mobile types had TR6s. It's great to know that we have held onto them for such a long time (the date in my logbook says I took ownership on 23 March 1979 !) and of course our very infrequent meetings have gone on for so many years. I have a couple of projects on the go at the moment so am not in a position to start mine but you've certainly focused my mind on what will be a massive rebuild. I will watch your posts with interest and I must admit a little envy ! Chris Well you do now have a few of them Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted August 8, 2021 Report Share Posted August 8, 2021 So Chris which one are you starting ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Mountford Posted August 8, 2021 Report Share Posted August 8, 2021 Hi both, Stuart - you are quite right, over the years I have collected more than my fair share ! SWMBO reckons more work than I can complete in my lifetime. Roy, - I have a 3A and a 4 under rebuild at the moment, so no time to start anything new just yet. I must get my original 5 rebuilt though. It was a scrapper even at 11 years old when I bought it, but i managed to do a BOC rebuild as a novice in the 80's and it gave me another 15 years before the chassis disintegrated. Sorry for the hijack Dave, I am really looking forward to reading about your progress and am rooting for you all the way. Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dblenk Posted August 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2021 1 hour ago, Chris Mountford said: Hi both, Stuart - you are quite right, over the years I have collected more than my fair share ! SWMBO reckons more work than I can complete in my lifetime. Roy, - I have a 3A and a 4 under rebuild at the moment, so no time to start anything new just yet. I must get my original 5 rebuilt though. It was a scrapper even at 11 years old when I bought it, but i managed to do a BOC rebuild as a novice in the 80's and it gave me another 15 years before the chassis disintegrated. Sorry for the hijack Dave, I am really looking forward to reading about your progress and am rooting for you all the way. Chris No Problem Chris will you be around at the IWE think i have a photo somewhere of our cars at the 86 lakes tour maybe have a pint or coffee message me for my phone number cheers David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted August 10, 2021 Report Share Posted August 10, 2021 On 8/4/2021 at 9:45 PM, harrytr5 said: Very nice David, Looking forward to seeing rebuild it. here you go right way up Regards Harry TR5 Nutter Use PlusGas! It is far better than WD40 as it dissolves red rust. Used it for years! Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dblenk Posted August 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 (edited) HI All fighting with the 5 with the 50 year old bolts, but successful all panels off except rear wings, looking ok but now late at night so will try again tomorrow However those two bolts right at the back look a pain any little fixes people have come across over the years to make removal easy ???? cheers David PS put penetration oil on Edited August 23, 2021 by dblenk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 24, 2021 Report Share Posted August 24, 2021 Small spanner is the way to go Dave. if you havent got one then buy a cheapy and cut it down. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dblenk Posted August 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2021 21 minutes ago, stuart said: Small spanner is the way to go Dave. if you havent got one then buy a cheapy and cut it down. Stuart. Thought you would say that right in the corner **** falling on me and slow progress as the ratchet doesnt fit, well i will have the nice part of building it up one day with new clean parts hahaha thanks Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kenrow Posted August 24, 2021 Report Share Posted August 24, 2021 FYI: "In a published article in Machinist Workshop Magazine, they tested some commercially available penetrating oils on a group of nuts and bolts they had scientifically rusted to a uniform degree in a saltwater solution. The fasteners were treated with a variety of commercially available penetrants, and the measured torque required to loosen them was recorded. The breakout torque required for: Nothing = 516 ft. lbs. WD-40 = 238 ft. lbs. PB Blaster = 214 ft. lbs. Liquid Wrench = 127 ft. lbs. Kano Kroil = 106 ft. lbs. 50/50 blend of ATF and Acetone = 50 ft. lbs. As you can see by the results of their test, the homebrew concoction of automatic transmission fluid and acetone worked best. But also keep in mind that acetone is very flammable and must be dispensed from a sealed metal container, similar to the old oil squirt cans. From my own experience, this solution works very well and seems to work a little better if you use synthetic ATF. Kroil is less volatile than the homebrew and often a first choice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dblenk Posted August 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2021 (edited) 16 hours ago, Kenrow said: FYI: "In a published article in Machinist Workshop Magazine, they tested some commercially available penetrating oils on a group of nuts and bolts they had scientifically rusted to a uniform degree in a saltwater solution. The fasteners were treated with a variety of commercially available penetrants, and the measured torque required to loosen them was recorded. The breakout torque required for: Nothing = 516 ft. lbs. WD-40 = 238 ft. lbs. PB Blaster = 214 ft. lbs. Liquid Wrench = 127 ft. lbs. Kano Kroil = 106 ft. lbs. 50/50 blend of ATF and Acetone = 50 ft. lbs. As you can see by the results of their test, the homebrew concoction of automatic transmission fluid and acetone worked best. But also keep in mind that acetone is very flammable and must be dispensed from a sealed metal container, similar to the old oil squirt cans. From my own experience, this solution works very well and seems to work a little better if you use synthetic ATF. Kroil is less volatile than the homebrew and often a first choice. Interesting info that would have thought in California they would jump out the threads (no rust) my brother used in live in Glendale (now Idaho) the 5 has surprised with the amount that has come loose with the odd stubborn ones however thats why we have grinders and long wrenches just the last few on the rear wings and the rest is accessible cheers Edited August 25, 2021 by dblenk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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