A couple of questions before the body shell goes back on!

[BlairP]

Greetings from Burgundy. Sorry for the radio silence the past several weeks; I've been stuck, waiting on the body shop. Used the time to clean and paint parts, but am ready to get moving again, as the shell will be ready next week.

I do have a couple of questions before it goes back on:

First, I've had to replace the clutch master/slave combination. If you look at the slave pics below, I'm not sure about how it's mounted. Normally, I think the slave flange would be on the back side of the rear engine plate towards the gearbox. However, two points: The slave's flange itself is only machined flat on the side where I have it attached; the other side has rounded edges and a rough finish. Second, I bought the adjustable push rod, and if I install the slave on the other side of the plate, it's too long to attach to the clutch lever. It appears I've installed it the only way it can go. Or am I missing something?

Second, I've bought the Bosch-type fuel pump replacement (see pic). While these usually mount in the spare type well, does anyone know of a reason I shouldn't mount it in the wheel well, like the TRGB model? I can't help but think the extra air flow, and the lower mounting point, would be good ideas. Thoughts?

Thanks chaps. Before too long, I'll be seeing if this bad boy will start!

Blair 

[harrytr5]

Yes I have mounted this kit on the underneath of the boot floor sides on the horizontal panel.

You just have to work out the pipe runs. Make sure you fit an on/off petrol tap on the outlet of the fuel tank.Much easier to do any maintenance work later.

Regards Harry

[Harbottle]

As Harry above, you can also fit a shield to protect from road debris etc.

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Are all those gearbox bell housing bolts to engine back-plate 5/16" diameter?  If so you need to replace two of them with 3/8" dowel bolts to align the gearbox centrally to the flywheel.

<<<<<Hi Everyone,

Here's an important tip that everyone should know about TR6 gearbox installations.

Two of the bell housing bolts are meant for 3/8 diameter shoulder bolts or dowels - the purpose being to properly locate the center of the flywheel with the center of your gearbox input shaft. Too often, these are missed; most people use 5/16 bolts only in all the locating holes, which results in an eccentric misalignment between the flywheel pilot bush and the aforementioned input shaft. The net result is a premature failure of your release bearing, or my case, a pilot bush that was machined by the gearbox shaft to the point of failure (evidenced by a loud, squealing or machining sound when I initially touched the clutch pedal).

To avoid this, go to a fastener retailer and buy two 3/8 diameter shoulder bolts with 5/16 threads. Make sure the shoulder is long enough to properly engage both the bellhousing and the engine plate. You might have to buy a longer shoulder than necessary and add several washers under the head to properly position these bolts. Put these shoulder bolts in BEFORE you tighten the other 5/16 bolts.

Some have suggested using dowels instead of the shoulder bolts. I understand that this may not provide enough clamping force between the engine plate and bellhousing - because Triumph used to do this with the early TR6's and had a number of bellhousings come loose because there were too few fasteners.

Note that I know of no TR6 parts catalog today that shows the use of these shoulder bolts. They were used initially, but they seemed to have been missed over the mists of time.

There's a lot of talk on the web about faulty TR6 release bearings. I suspect, in reality, that the bearings were fine. The release bearing problems were probably caused by this misalignment if the two locating 3/8 bolts aren't used.

Cheers,
Brian
1973 TR6 in Winnipeg
with a freshly installed and properly located gearbox>>>>>

Read

https://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/LocatingDowels.htm

 

[John L]

My clutch slave is fitted with the bracket on the gearbox side and the cylinder mounted on the the rear of the plate on its unmachined surface. I have a solid clutch rod.

I'm sure others will say its wrong but seems to work ok, maybe the slave is not machined as it should be, or is a generic fits all. 

Make sure you have the bleed nipple at the top for easier bleeding!

John