ntc Posted July 31, 2021 Report Share Posted July 31, 2021 7 minutes ago, signalredshaker said: I got the adjustable pushrods from Revington- fitted to Brake and Clutch M/C. A huge improvement! James Two wrongs don’t make it right and there should be no need Quote Link to post Share on other sites
signalredshaker Posted July 31, 2021 Report Share Posted July 31, 2021 3 hours ago, ntc said: Two wrongs don’t make it right and there should be no need Actually, it did! ..and there was. I don't really think the elimination of these two wrongs are the only improvements one can make to a TR. James Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted July 31, 2021 Report Share Posted July 31, 2021 25 minutes ago, signalredshaker said: Actually, it did! ..and there was. I don't really think the elimination of these two wrongs are the only improvements one can make to a TR. James Adjustable rods are for cables not hydraulics Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted August 1, 2021 Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 12 hours ago, signalredshaker said: Actually, it did! ..and there was. I don't really think the elimination of these two wrongs are the only improvements one can make to a TR. James 11 hours ago, ntc said: Adjustable rods are for cables not hydraulics Standard on TR3, at least mine was fitted with them, however my pedal still goes down too far. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted August 1, 2021 Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 I have just been looking on ebay and there are plenty of residual pressure valves on there, but seem to be 2 pressures available, 2psi and 10 psi. Unfortunately all in line types with metric fittings. Which poundage would be nearest to original fitment? My car had a valve but it was all rusted up inside so deleted it on the re build. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted August 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2021 I've ran with and without the residual pressure valve inards, and it mad no difference. I'm working through the suggestions here, and have eliminated the pedal hold down overnight, and rear brake adjustment. Done both and no difference, if I'm honest I didn't think there would be, I can't see my stub axles could flex, not with the big HD ones, and when I think of the force needed to retract pads when changing them, it takes some believing that the rubber dust covers can pull them back. I'm thinking about running without the covers, for a very short period of time to see, what does anyone think? John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted August 2, 2021 Report Share Posted August 2, 2021 On new callipers from Moss I could not get a firm peddle until I tried the ply pads at half or less thickness and jammed on over night. It worked for me. (not my TR) My TR5 has all the uprated stuff including the CDD front stub axle/hub and bigger bearings.Someone has cured this problem by careful shimming of the bearing and stub axle set up and I am going to let him do mine to see if it will cure it which he is confident it will. Watch this space. Regards Harry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted August 2, 2021 Report Share Posted August 2, 2021 (edited) 2 hours ago, John Morrison said: I've ran with and without the residual pressure valve inards, and it mad no difference. I'm working through the suggestions here, and have eliminated the pedal hold down overnight, and rear brake adjustment. Done both and no difference, if I'm honest I didn't think there would be, I can't see my stub axles could flex, not with the big HD ones, and when I think of the force needed to retract pads when changing them, it takes some believing that the rubber dust covers can pull them back. I'm thinking about running without the covers, for a very short period of time to see, what does anyone think? John. John I would remove pads and shoes to check even ware Edited August 2, 2021 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BRENDA1 Posted August 2, 2021 Report Share Posted August 2, 2021 I had to change my pads before it’s MOT, when I took the old ones out they had about 1/8 of pad left on all 4 so good even wear on the pads, the pistons moved in and out as they should and the stainless steel was very clean and smooth, fitted new pads and checked that they operated correctly. Still get the same one push on the peddle and it goes to half way down second push and it’s about 1/4 down. Mike redrose group Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted August 2, 2021 Report Share Posted August 2, 2021 6 hours ago, BRENDA1 said: I had to change my pads before it’s MOT, when I took the old ones out they had about 1/8 of pad left on all 4 so good even wear on the pads, the pistons moved in and out as they should and the stainless steel was very clean and smooth, fitted new pads and checked that they operated correctly. Still get the same one push on the peddle and it goes to half way down second push and it’s about 1/4 down. Mike redrose group Suggest you read my post above again Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brenda Posted August 2, 2021 Report Share Posted August 2, 2021 I read your above post, I have even ware, front and rear. Mike Redrose group Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted August 2, 2021 Report Share Posted August 2, 2021 6 minutes ago, brenda said: I read your above post, I have even ware, front and rear. Mike Redrose group If so what clearance do you have on the pushrod to master? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted August 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2021 my wear is also even . there is about 2mm play at the pushrod. John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted August 3, 2021 Report Share Posted August 3, 2021 Then you both have air in the system Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted August 3, 2021 Report Share Posted August 3, 2021 (edited) On 8/2/2021 at 8:00 AM, John Morrison said: I've ran with and without the residual pressure valve inards, and it mad no difference. I'm working through the suggestions here, and have eliminated the pedal hold down overnight, and rear brake adjustment. Done both and no difference, if I'm honest I didn't think there would be, I can't see my stub axles could flex, not with the big HD ones, and when I think of the force needed to retract pads when changing them, it takes some believing that the rubber dust covers can pull them back. I'm thinking about running without the covers, for a very short period of time to see, what does anyone think? John. John, I don`t think it is the dust covers but the main seals that relax after being under pressure, indeed they are designed to do so to allow the pads to move back very slightly. I think the main cause is play in the front wheel bearings. I was always taught that there should be some otherwise the bearings are too tight, but needs to be barely detectable. A simple check might be to "pump up" the brake pedal with the car stationary, then without moving the car leave for a short while and then press the brake pedal again. If the pedal has stayed up, then the culprit is probably pad knock back when moving ( warped disc or loose wheel bearings), if the pedal goes down to the lower position try it again with the handbrake applied to eliminate back brake adjustment. This was obviously a problem from the start, otherwise why would Triumph have gone to the trouble of installing the residual pressure valve. I am tempted to install one of the new commercially available items, starting with the 2psi version, but I don`t want to disturb the brake hydraulics at the moment, prefer to be out driving the car whilst the weather permits. Ralph. Edited August 3, 2021 by Ralph Whitaker Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted August 3, 2021 Report Share Posted August 3, 2021 (edited) Yes, they are designed to do so and with the wear out of the brake pads the pistions slide more and more out through the seals - but in steps and not constantly exactly according to the wear out. So the problem of the play can be less after driving some or less miles, until the pistons move out in a step, and can also increase again.... Edited August 3, 2021 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted August 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2021 Thanks all. still working through these, and other suggestions. Neil, can't see that my brakes need bled, I've done the job so many times, sometimes with others, power bled too, plus the pedal is hard, not at all spongy. I'll keep all posted, as it seems a problem for more than just me. John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BRENDA1 Posted August 3, 2021 Report Share Posted August 3, 2021 As above I have also had the brakes power bled and no difference, I have had the same for years so looks like I will have to continue with it unless John finds something then I will give it a go. Mike redrose group Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted August 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2021 FIXED! Yes fixed and I'm so chuffed! Many thanks to all the folk here, as well as those who read of my issue elsewhere and got in touch directly. The issue came down to two things, front whel bearing play, and the rear backplates. Front wheel bearing play, in some ways obvious, we run with slight, just discernable rock on the fronts - Yes? Well I'm convinced now that any rock is what causes the pads to move, not flexing stub axles or rubber covers or seals, and causes pad knock back. So making sure that the play in front bearings is, JUST, discenable is part of the answer. Second issue is wear in the rear backplate, caused by the handbrake lever, I know that Stuart for one, mentions this often, but I never put this and my pedal travel together, well I should have. Before and after photos of a very simple fix, build up the groove, or indent, with weld and grind flush, refit, making sure cylinders slide, if you don't grind back enough, then the cylinder will bind when all clipped back togetehr - ask me how I know, and it only takes a few thou! Test run, and the jobs a Gud'un. John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted August 12, 2021 Report Share Posted August 12, 2021 Great result John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Les Millington Posted August 15, 2021 Report Share Posted August 15, 2021 On 8/12/2021 at 11:48 AM, John Morrison said: FIXED! Yes fixed and I'm so chuffed! Many thanks to all the folk here, as well as those who read of my issue elsewhere and got in touch directly. The issue came down to two things, front whel bearing play, and the rear backplates. Front wheel bearing play, in some ways obvious, we run with slight, just discernable rock on the fronts - Yes? Well I'm convinced now that any rock is what causes the pads to move, not flexing stub axles or rubber covers or seals, and causes pad knock back. So making sure that the play in front bearings is, JUST, discenable is part of the answer. Second issue is wear in the rear backplate, caused by the handbrake lever, I know that Stuart for one, mentions this often, but I never put this and my pedal travel together, well I should have. Before and after photos of a very simple fix, build up the groove, or indent, with weld and grind flush, refit, making sure cylinders slide, if you don't grind back enough, then the cylinder will bind when all clipped back togetehr - ask me how I know, and it only takes a few thou! Test run, and the jobs a Gud'un. John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Les Millington Posted August 15, 2021 Report Share Posted August 15, 2021 Thank you for the before and after photos, it now makes a lot more sense. I thought I was looking for wear in the rectangular hole itself and found none when I stripped the brakes recently. Luckily I took photos whilst the lever and slave cal were off the backplate and now I can see what to look for. I have the start of some wear, but nothing like yours,so I'll know to keep an eye on it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pontious Posted August 15, 2021 Report Share Posted August 15, 2021 (edited) I had the same problem on my TR4A during lockdown. With no access to welding, I fettled a U shaped shim from a standard timber saw blade and slipped it in between the piston holder and the backing plate to allow the piston to slide unimpeded. The saw blade shim is only about 1 mm thick so easily slipped in with some copper grease - it works a treat. I also fashioned an extended pivot arm using angle iron as per Roger’s diagram to achieve a very satisfactory handbrake function. David Edited August 15, 2021 by Pontious No name Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted August 16, 2021 Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 (edited) On 8/12/2021 at 11:48 AM, John Morrison said: FIXED! Yes fixed and I'm so chuffed! Many thanks to all the folk here, as well as those who read of my issue elsewhere and got in touch directly. The issue came down to two things, front whel bearing play, and the rear backplates. Front wheel bearing play, in some ways obvious, we run with slight, just discernable rock on the fronts - Yes? Well I'm convinced now that any rock is what causes the pads to move, not flexing stub axles or rubber covers or seals, and causes pad knock back. So making sure that the play in front bearings is, JUST, discenable is part of the answer. Second issue is wear in the rear backplate, caused by the handbrake lever, I know that Stuart for one, mentions this often, but I never put this and my pedal travel together, well I should have. Before and after photos of a very simple fix, build up the groove, or indent, with weld and grind flush, refit, making sure cylinders slide, if you don't grind back enough, then the cylinder will bind when all clipped back togetehr - ask me how I know, and it only takes a few thou! Test run, and the jobs a Gud'un. John. Are the two round pivots that caused that wear in the back-plate sill round or worn flat one side? Edited August 16, 2021 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted August 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 Did look, and to be honest, barely susceptable wear on the 'Pins' in the handbrake levers. John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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