Casar66 Posted July 20, 2021 Report Share Posted July 20, 2021 Hi there, back after more than one year due covid 19 and restoring an old ship I am still among the TR6-drivers. Today I did only the 2nd trip in 2021. But I need the second cable for the bonnet release this year too. Always the same: pulling the cable and it do not release the bonnet but overstretched more ore less the outer cable instead. Both sets (outer and inner cable) were from MOSS. Is it possible to get higher quality cables somewhere else? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted July 20, 2021 Report Share Posted July 20, 2021 Are you sure you do not have a problem with the bonnet latch alignment? You shouldn’t need to pull very hard on the release cable to open the bonnet. I have a new cable on my 6 and it works fine with not much pressure needed but it did take a while to get the latch aligned correctly cheers Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted July 20, 2021 Report Share Posted July 20, 2021 I'd take the Moss cable to a local automotive cable specialist, explain the problem and ask them to make a better cable. In Australia the local cable people are cheap compared to the quality of the product they make. An emergency release on the TR6 bonnet never goes astray. I have a home made solid rod type that goes directly from the catch to a handle in the footwell. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mk2 Chopper Posted July 21, 2021 Report Share Posted July 21, 2021 7 hours ago, Mike C said: An emergency release on the TR6 bonnet never goes astray. I have a home made solid rod type that goes directly from the catch to a handle in the footwell. After I fitted the above, I no longer call it an emergency release, it's my main way to open the bonnet, a much better way than the cable release. Fit one, and leave the original as a back up. Gareth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted July 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2021 Quote After I fitted the above, I no longer call it an emergency release, it's my main way to open the bonnet, a much better way than the cable release. Fit one, and leave the original as a back up. same with me. My emergency release works pretty well. So I guess, that my bonnet-latch-alignment is ok. I have never ever any problems with opening the bonnet. But now two cables in one season. I did not change anything, just the cables. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted July 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2021 Quote local automotive cable specialist I wish there was one in my area Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harlequin Posted July 21, 2021 Report Share Posted July 21, 2021 25 minutes ago, Casar66 said: I wish there was one in my area Bicycle shop will probably be able to help George Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave I O W Posted July 21, 2021 Report Share Posted July 21, 2021 1 hour ago, Casar66 said: same with me. My emergency release works pretty well. So I guess, that my bonnet-latch-alignment is ok. I have never ever any problems with opening the bonnet. But now two cables in one season. I did not change anything, just the cables. Here's one on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255055773304?hash=item3b62823e78:g:pm4AAOSwkwFgN9wG Dave. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted July 21, 2021 Report Share Posted July 21, 2021 mine is from Moss too and works ok, not much force required. I oiled it before assembly with engine oil. I assume it runs the correct route (for a lhd car)? Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barkerwilliams Posted July 21, 2021 Report Share Posted July 21, 2021 Two is better than one, and these are good. https://www.venhill.co.uk/control-lines No connection. Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 21, 2021 Report Share Posted July 21, 2021 7 hours ago, Waldi said: mine is from Moss too and works ok, not much force required. I oiled it before assembly with engine oil. I assume it runs the correct route (for a lhd car)? Waldi The original cable route is the same for left and right hand drive cars. When restoring 5/6 I always fit the secondary as the cable would have been fitted on 4/4a, a lot less strain on the cable when fitted like that Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted July 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2021 photo please? My one is not fitted as the original route. My one is fitted (since 1985) with the cable following the front-line of the battery. And that cable with that route lasted for 35 years. only the last two were real one-hit-wonders and I do not why. Have just ordered the third cable for this year, grrr. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted July 21, 2021 Report Share Posted July 21, 2021 Shouldn't take a massive amount of pull to pop the catch. I'd suggest removing the catch and making sure everything moves freely and grease it. That said fitting a secondary cable or pull as fitted by Ed http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-84/TR6-84.html is good insurance. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 22, 2021 Report Share Posted July 22, 2021 16 hours ago, Casar66 said: photo please? My one is not fitted as the original route. My one is fitted (since 1985) with the cable following the front-line of the battery. And that cable with that route lasted for 35 years. only the last two were real one-hit-wonders and I do not why. Have just ordered the third cable for this year, grrr. That is the correct route for an original cable, some of the repros arent good quality, local motor factor ones Ive found are often a better bet. Secondary like this works well. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cp25616 Posted July 22, 2021 Report Share Posted July 22, 2021 (edited) I have done away with the original cable routing and moved the main (and secondary emergency) to the RHS so I access both cables now from the drivers side, way way easier and the cable with its shorter and far less convoluted route, length and thus travel works an absolute treat. Walter Petchey is the man to ask here as I procured one of his conversions and as stated its brilliant. Alan G Edited July 22, 2021 by cp25616 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted August 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2021 After spending some time on my new old boat in Holland I had a look today at my TR and removed the old cable. exactly the same failure than the last one, both lastet just for month. The bonnet catch alignment itself ist smooth and easy to move. What is the reason for that and how -if possible - can I prepare the new one against doing it the same again? I still think that it could be a failure of production. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted August 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2021 Decided to try a last repair with a crimper. It looks not that bad. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted August 22, 2021 Report Share Posted August 22, 2021 Hope it works now. It does look to be cheaply made. For the last 50 years I've my cables made by a local specialist cable manufacturer, who I can talk to, who will make cables to my specifications and who will fix any problems. My local supplier is : https://www.flexibledrive.com.au/product/cables-and-controls There must be equivalent suppliers in Holland. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Casar66 Posted August 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 Still asking myself what did I wrong? I can't imagine that I used too much force while pulling it. they made yours looking like the original in high quality or does it look different? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alfrom Posted August 23, 2021 Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 stiff cable - may not be the cable. In my experience excessive force required to open the bonnet using the primary handle came about after reassembly of the safety catch assembly(as named by Moss in their catalogue, pt no 619580) fitted to the bonnet, when the screw pin was done up too much and so making the sing force much greater, thus requiring much more effort to release. Slackening the screw a couple of turns made all the difference. As others have already mentioned this is now my secondary release method, The primary being a short rod direct from the side of the catch down to just above my left ankle. So much easier and much more positive. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnG Posted August 23, 2021 Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 On 7/20/2021 at 9:58 PM, Casar66 said: Hi there, back after more than one year due covid 19 and restoring an old ship I am still among the TR6-drivers. Today I did only the 2nd trip in 2021. But I need the second cable for the bonnet release this year too. Always the same: pulling the cable and it do not release the bonnet but overstretched more ore less the outer cable instead. Both sets (outer and inner cable) were from MOSS. Is it possible to get higher quality cables somewhere else? Having 2 methods of opening the bonnet is an imperative. I installed a cable release on the drivers side (a mirror of the original on the L/H side) With this new one I used a black outer casing. I then installed a new cable in the original location, this with a red outer casing. I used the new release as the standard release The original was there as a back up. Installing the new cable was quite quick and easy to do. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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