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After saturdays fun at Shelsely I was checking the car over last nigh and the fan belt was loose

Medium  story cut short. 
 

I have found the top (narrow belt converted) pulley wobbly 

and further investigation that the “woodruff” key worn

BUT it really doesn’t look like a key but just a raise part of the shaft. 
 
Did they ever make shafts originally or repo with the key as part of the shaft as I can’t see that there is anything to be replaced. 
 

which is a pity as the pulley is fine as is the pump. 
 

just this worn key woodruff or casting into shaft. 
 

I’m racing again Sunday hence the urgency

D4027D3D-992A-42E5-B5D6-D145CB33EA44.jpeg

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564BAA34-FCAA-4A8D-87D7-EF38B5CD266C.jpeg

Edited by Hamish
Bl@@dy auto correct
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That must be a separate key Hamish but the surface of the key and of the shaft  is so damaged you can't see the join. Keys are a very tight fit  and often need persuasion to remove. Looking at the surface of the shaft, that seems very pitted and gouged so you will never seat the pulley properly IMHO.  I think the whole thing needs to be replaced.

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+2

I believe this is a fairly regular occurrence on some of the repro pumps and one of the reasons I include a spare in the boot when travelling a bit further afar than usual

A word of encouragement, it can be changed without removing the apron - but maybe you knew that already!

james

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Hamish - contact Paul at EP Services - I'm sure he may be able to help as they rebuild OE pumps

E P Services Unit 1 Central Trading Estate, Cable Street, Wolverhampton WV2 2RJ

 

 

 

Phone: 01902 452914

Cheers Rich

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Posted (edited)

Thanks everyone  

especially Rich C-R who also called me :)

i have spoken to ep services and he is getting one in the post (ups) today. Ace chap there  

I need to double check my pulley now  

 

thank you all you are fantastic

and soooo quick

cheers

H

 

 

 

Edited by Hamish
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Posted (edited)

Looks like a new pulley needed too

despite being sleeved the key way has been eaten away as well. 

BA5677CE-D84D-4C8F-AC30-C162738A4491.jpeg

86916B22-DF69-4D39-B712-653A893F3D7B.jpeg

Edited by Hamish
Pics
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EP Pumps are the real specialist company in a world where there are so many rubbish parts, it is exciting to find a company who do it correctly and high quality..

Good luck, 

Richard & B

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19 minutes ago, Z320 said:

The pulley is made of aluminium?

Yes

with a steel sleeve insert .

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I have run a slightly modified fergerson tractor waterpump (sleve to fit the pulley)  in my 3a for almost 10 years as I didnt like the look of the repros at the time.

cheers

Alan

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I highly recommend the Racetorations billet pump. It comes with the narrow pulley already fitted. Not cheap but far better made than the repro stuff. Fit and forget.

racetorations-tr2-4a-lightweight-water-pump-and-pulley-billet-p797-826_zoom.jpg

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That’s what I said

Peter W

2 hours ago, Andy303 said:

I highly recommend the Racetorations billet pump. It comes with the narrow pulley already fitted. Not cheap but far better made than the repro stuff. Fit and forget.

racetorations-tr2-4a-lightweight-water-pump-and-pulley-billet-p797-826_zoom.jpg

 

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Well thanks to this forum :-

RogerH sometimes mentioning the TRSHOP. Who have come up trumps with a replacement pulley ( that they have split a narrow belt kit for me )

Ep services for the pump off the shelf ( mine to be returned)

and some hopefully prompt carriers I should be good for this weekend fingers crossed. 
 

thank you everyone 

H

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Hi Folks,

as Hamish has found, The TRSHOP are often prepared t break their kits to get at a single item.

 

As this thread is about pumps here is an interesting pint that may help somebody one day.

In 2018 my water pump gave up the ghost at Gaydon.  Another TR driver helped me out (Tim Hunt) as he had  a spare pump in his boot.:)

I could take my pump off but could not remove the pulley - and the spare pump needed my pulley. aaarrrggghhhhh:o

I got about 10 miles down the M40 before the pump became scrap.

When i got home and sorted the pump  I made myself  a slim line pulley removing tool - ust like an umberelli it will never be needed but is in the boot anyway.

 

Roger

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46 minutes ago, Z320 said:

What about a spare pump with pulley already fixed there?

Like two umbrellas?

Hi Marco,

If I did that I wouldn't need to make a slim line pulley puller.

 

Roger

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Guys - if you have a spare pump with a pulley already on, don't you need to fit or have a relevant long bolt in the relevant pump hole BEFORE you fit the pulley because if you can't get the pully off the pump you have just removed, you won't get the bolt out to re-use it, so make sure you have a spare of that as well

Cheers Rich

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7 minutes ago, rcreweread said:

Guys - if you have a spare pump with a pulley already on, don't you need to fit or have a relevant long bolt in the relevant pump hole BEFORE you fit the pulley because if you can't get the pully off the pump you have just removed, you won't get the bolt out to re-use it, so make sure you have a spare of that as well

Cheers Rich

I dealt with that issue in the Moss parts catalogue.  As required for Unipart pumps that had a fixed pulley.

Use a 3” long 3/8” unf + 3/8” unc  stud  (TE506241) plus a unf nut and washer.  Same stud as used to hold the rocker pedestals to the head on 4 cyl TR.

 

Peter W

 

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My spare W/Pumps always have the pully fitted and I use studs. Pops onto the studs nice and easy and, yes, one of the nuts is a little tricky . . . . . . :huh:

This time I was in Italy ......

 

20150517_064734.jpg

Edited by North London Mike
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Morning Hamish, great to see you are well on the way to getting this sorted with all the usual forum help and expertise….

Without hopefully sounding like a boring old b*8ger, here’s my tuppence worth learnt early on in my 40+ years of driving TR’s close to the raggedy edge, when pushing the 4 pot along at the higher Rev end if anything is out of sync or line - also if the belt is ‘excessively’ tight - then the stresses will eventually show at the weakest link, the woodruff key.

Thereafter, I found I was left with two basic options:

  1. keep the revs down to5500… and or,
  2. ensure as much as possible that everything is aligned with the belt as loose as possible but not slipping and still charging 

(3rd option I quickly got fed up with was being towed home by Neil REVINGTON, Dave Brown, long term nameless Committee member et al)

Enjoy and keep the videos coming

 

Cheers,

Tony

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