John L Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 Isn't this what you need? https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/insulator-block-for-stromberg-carburetors-c33060.html John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AarhusTr6 Posted July 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 (edited) Hi guys thanks for all the advice but it's still is running really high and unfortunately I had to cancel the road trip. I plugged the hole as suggested by Poolboy and also put those spacers in . Connecting I have tried disconnecting linkage so that does not seem to be an issue and the choke levers are fully closed. I do not know if it is a red herring but it gets worse as the engine gets warmer and almost up points when it is hot racing away up to like 17 1800 RPM IIt's kind of ruining my summer plans Richard Edited July 14, 2021 by AarhusTr6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted July 14, 2021 Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 Have you eliminated air leaking through a punctured vac retard capsule diaphragm? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AarhusTr6 Posted July 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 Hi Peter Dizzy is a recent rebuild from Distributor Doctor, but is the test to just plug it for a moment? Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harlequin Posted July 14, 2021 Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 (edited) Richard If its not the linkage and not the bypass I would suggest removing the carbs and holding them up to the light look down the choke to make sure the butterflies are closing completely. I think it is possible to fit them back to front? Remove the dash pots and check every thing is moving freely and not binding. Give the spindles a good wiggle to make sure air is not getting in through there. These carbs are fairly simple things, it will be somthing not assembled correctly or damaged George Edited July 14, 2021 by harlequin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AarhusTr6 Posted July 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 2 hours ago, harlequin said: Richard If its not the linkage and not the bypass I would suggest removing the carbs and holding them up to the light look down the choke to make sure the butterflies are closing completely. I think it is possible to fit them back to front? Remove the dash pots and check every thing is moving freely and not binding. Give the spindles a good wiggle to make sure air is not getting in through there. These carbs are fairly simple things, it will be somthing not assembled correctly or damaged George Hi there I struggle . . or rather dont want to belive that is possible as I spent a small fortune on having them rebuilt, and coming back like new from a specialist in Germany. I think this may be the approach, but this company, according to the TR Club of Germany are really top dollar. My timing I have, at idle, with a strobe light just in between the two II lines on the wheel, as I twist clockwise, it becomes higher in RPM but as said before, idle screws are totally out Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harlequin Posted July 15, 2021 Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 Richard If you didn't have the problem before the carbs went away and haven't changed anything else then the carbs are the most likely suspect. You say the idle screws are completely out, are the choke cam screws also clear? Do you have the little plungers on the float chamber vent? If they hang up they can hold the throttle open a bit. It is worth spending an hour or two checking this sort of stuff George Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted July 15, 2021 Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 Have you tried retarding the ignition to see if your idle drops? The markings on my 76 us import tr6 to set the static timing are wrong, I discovered that my ignition was too far advanced causing high idle. cheers Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted July 15, 2021 Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 (edited) Richard Can you supply a few photos of the carbs and the distributor with the vacuum connections, we seemed to have covered all the various possibilities that need checking, but there still seems something really wrong somewhere, with the photos it may give us a better chance to if something is not correct. Does you car still have all the USA emissions, or have these been disconnected? Have you contacted your German refurbisher what the likely problem could be, and do they have a check sheet to setup on return to a customer? John PS Do you have oil in the dashpots in the carbs? Edited July 15, 2021 by John L Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AarhusTr6 Posted July 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2021 Hi All of the emmission stuff has gone and yes, put oil in dashpots. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AarhusTr6 Posted August 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2021 Hi all Been a while, car is a bit better after a lot of muddling but tic still at 1400 . I am now wondering, if maybe I did not tighten inlet manifold or other well enough, could this be an issue? Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AarhusTr6 Posted August 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2021 BTW The car nearest the firewall, the screw broke on the TBV . . and I am struggling to find a replacement or should i blank them off? Thinking to do a test first before blanking to see what that does? Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
250 Posted August 5, 2021 Report Share Posted August 5, 2021 Hi Richard, My TBV are blanked off with a solid gasket, also temp compensator fully wound in on nyloc nut as if passing can cause tick over issues. Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AarhusTr6 Posted October 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2021 Well - - I figure I have done it - the high tickover! Is has taken me so long and so much reading, but when I got the brand new rebuilt carbs back, I had nothing but high RPM no matter what I did but did really believe issue had to be a leak somewhere. So I did, this weekend the following: Blanked off the throttle bypass valve with a thin sheet of metal New spacers from carb to manifold - one I got before curved in middle, new ones are totally square New gaskets on both sides of spacer Slowly and carefully I put it all back together and RPM is now 600-800! For some reason this took months to figure, so missed a lot of driving but satisfaction on getting it sorted was immense. Thanks to all who helped, Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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