Moliver Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 Hi There, I have observed an annoying rattling in LH curves and suspect the RH rear wheel bearing to be worn )?). Car swiftly jacked up on Sun evening, wheel off.... All right will get an extractor first as none of the 4 I have fits ... Can anybody provide the follwing input: a) Am I correct, that it will be possible to take off the bearing housing without taking of the entire brake assembly completly ? b) Has anyone the bearing spec and seal ring spec /dimensions available ( I would like to get them from a brand supplier instead of ordering by part no from a TR part supplier- Preferably in parallel to the dismantling activities) Input welcome Cheers Oliver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 (edited) How many bolts hold the brake back plate to the axle? You will need to remove the complete axle shaft to replace the bearing. The brake back plate does not need removing, only the nuts and bolts that retain it and the axle shaft bearing housing. 4. Bolts. It is a Lockheed type axle. The bearing is quite easy to replace without a specialised removal tool. Legged puller should do it. 6. Bolts. It is a Girling type axle. The bearing is not easy to replace without a specialist removal tool that bolts to the hub flange. Use a legged puller and risk bending the flange. https://windyridgefarm.us/Triumph-Churchill.php Edited June 21, 2021 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 (edited) I have researched part numbers and got dimensions for the axle. Hope this XL spread sheet is readable Cheers Peter W TR Rear Hub Bearings.xlsx Edited June 21, 2021 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Moliver Posted June 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 Thanks All. The baring chart is great as it allows procurement of brand parts without having the old part in hand. I am just tired to order standard parts by TR parts suppliers, pay premium prices and thebn find out it is non-branded China bullshit when having the part in hand. I do have the 4-bolt Lockheed axel but with an wire wheel adapter. I thought that the brake plate can remain connected - thanks for confirming Further evaluating the hub however did not indicate that the bearing is damaged. The hub spins without play or significant spots. So I wonder if the rattle in LH curves may have another root cause ? May exchange the bearing and sea anyway just to be on the save side... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Moliver Posted June 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 Another question that came to my mind: Does the spline nut require a defined torque? It was tightened quite soft when disassembled … Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 The nut that is split pinned and holds the half shaft to the axle is tightened to 110-125 ft lbs After axle number TS8039 the torque rises as the nut is changed the torque is 125 - 142 ft lbs. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Moliver Posted June 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 Peter, does this apply with the wire wheel adaptor as well. ? The Haynes is differentiating - for whatever reason- between standard and wire wheel. For wire wheels only smooth torque is required (?) Cheers Oliver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 22, 2021 Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 With original wire wheel adaptors that are part of the hub, yes the torque setting of the big slotted nut that holds the hub to the axle shaft is required If you have the later type splined adaptors that are bolted to the brake drum, they too must be torqued up. here is dimensions of the SP75G bearing A photo of your installation with the wire wheel removed will tell a thousand stories Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Blue Sky Posted June 23, 2021 Report Share Posted June 23, 2021 Hi, this is a reply I gave to a fellow Lockheed axle sufferer - "I bought my bearings and sturdy-sleeves from Simply Bearings, part numbers are 99149 (sleeves 1.497"-1.503") and 6206-2RZ-SKF - part of the issue was that a groove had been worn in the stub and the new seals were not actually sealing as they had nothing to bear against. I removed the inner seal (facing to the diff) but given that these bearings are rated to 12,000rpm I think you could leave both sides in place." I have had no issues with the bearings or oil leaks onto the brakes since 2018. Regards, Laurence Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 23, 2021 Report Share Posted June 23, 2021 30 minutes ago, Mr Blue Sky said: Hi, this is a reply I gave to a fellow Lockheed axle sufferer - "I bought my bearings and sturdy-sleeves from Simply Bearings, part numbers are 99149 (sleeves 1.497"-1.503") and 6206-2RZ-SKF - part of the issue was that a groove had been worn in the stub and the new seals were not actually sealing as they had nothing to bear against. I removed the inner seal (facing to the diff) but given that these bearings are rated to 12,000rpm I think you could leave both sides in place." I have had no issues with the bearings or oil leaks onto the brakes since 2018. Regards, Laurence Good advice on the bearings with shields and the use of ‘speedi-sleeve’ Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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