F1loco Posted June 19, 2021 Report Share Posted June 19, 2021 So, there is only one local shop I'd trust to work on my'64 TR4, but they appear to be short handed and too busy with "full resto" projects to deal with my suspension bits. My ball joint joints boots are busted, and the front and rear suspension is in need of new poly bushings. I don't do a lot of suspension work and need to know - 1. To replace the ball joints, is there anything I need to do with the suspension not to kill myself when I unbolt the two bolts to swap them out? Seems pretty straight forward but always cringe with the "spring" in play. 2. For the rest of the bushings, is there any special tool I need or to watch out for if I undertake rebuilding the same with poly bushings and disassemble the a-frames to replace the same? Thanks. Don Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted June 19, 2021 Report Share Posted June 19, 2021 Don the front top ball joints are very do-able and do not need spring compression or the fear of parts flying everywhere. wheel off, take the weight on the spring pan and set to work. you will need a ball joint splitter to make life easier to get the ball joint taper out of the uptight. ( you can hit the up right with 2 hammers at the same time where it joins but this is less easy. 2 bolts out on the wishbones/ball joint and replace. it’s sometimes easily to use a non nyloc nut to pull the taper down with out it spinning. Once in you can fit the nyloc. hope this helps- if I can do it anyone can H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
F1loco Posted June 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2021 Thanks, pickle fork and extra jack for the tension of the spring ready then. Any idea about replacing the remains bushings and disassembly of the a-frames to replace everything.? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 19, 2021 Report Share Posted June 19, 2021 Hi Don, if you are going to replace the bushes with poly bushes then you will need to remove the damper and spring You will need a 12mm (1/2UNF) length of studding. If you want to be super safe double the nuts up - I have never had a problem in using only one nut at each end. The underside of the pan is recessed - you will need to somehow to support the studding and nut to sit square. Remove the damper, Insert the studding and tighten down. The six spring pan nuts can now be removed. The studding nut can now be slackened off - make sure the studding is long enough before you start. With the pan off, the spring will now drop out. You can now work safely on all the parts. Do you have a bench vice or small (1 ton) press. If so removing the old bushes is straight forward using short lengths of tube (big sockets) to press the bush into etc. The poly bushes come with a small amount of silicone grease. This helps them get pressed into the arms and also stops them squeaking when in use. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted June 20, 2021 Report Share Posted June 20, 2021 (edited) Hi Don, if you don't own a a small press - use a table drilling machine - switched off! Put a 12 mm bar in the chuck pointing through the hole of the adjustable table Ready...? After 1 second: dont worry that, if the poly bush now fails it is worth to throw it in the bin! After 2 seconds: job done! The red arrow point of the inside surface of the upper poly bushes I used (Superflex, not cheap but woth the money). It is slightly slotted to keep always some silicon grease in there. The left one on the next photo was a bit too tight (cheap rubbish) and glued on the falcrum pin of my TR4A after a short time. This happened when the car was jacked, and it did not come down again when back on the wheels, it look a bit ugly high-heled. When making your own spring compressor tool fit a 25 mm steel ball between washer/nut an spring pan (easy to find via eBay, brass on the photo). This way I did it on all tools I made, this makes it very comfortable to work with. I made several of them, also for members of this forum, but I have only some left for the TR4A-TR6 and don't make them anymore. Have much success and for any question please ask. Marco Edited June 20, 2021 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
keith1948 Posted June 20, 2021 Report Share Posted June 20, 2021 Simple tools you could even use at the roadside such as a short piece of tube just wider than the bush and just longer. Put a threaded rod through the tube and bush. Washer on one end smaller diameter than bush and nut behind the washer. On the other end the tube and a big washer bigger diameter than the tube (or use a bit of flat metal with a hole in it. Another nut and then tighten both nuts. The old bush will be pulled into the tube. To fit the new bush put it into the tube and have the smaller washer and nut at the tube side. Use the bigger washer and nut at the suspension side. Tighten the nuts and the new bush is fitted. You could also use a G-clamp to push the new bush in but it is useful to have a small piece of tube as a guide to keep it square. Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
F1loco Posted June 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2021 Sounds like I need get a bushing kit on order. Thanks folks! Don Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted June 20, 2021 Report Share Posted June 20, 2021 Because I have been asked via PM: the one on the photo above is the first I made - and it is still in use. All of them which went out looked about like this. It's very easy and safe to work with this tool. You see, the 4 drill for the TR2-4 (above) are closer to each other like for the TR4A-6 (below) I've got 3 left for TR4A-6, because of limited time I stopped making them. Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Efuentes Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 On 6/20/2021 at 11:49 AM, keith1948 said: Simple tools you could even use at the roadside such as a short piece of tube just wider than the bush and just longer. Put a threaded rod through the tube and bush. Washer on one end smaller diameter than bush and nut behind the washer. On the other end the tube and a big washer bigger diameter than the tube (or use a bit of flat metal with a hole in it. Another nut and then tighten both nuts. The old bush will be pulled into the tube. To fit the new bush put it into the tube and have the smaller washer and nut at the tube side. Use the bigger washer and nut at the suspension side. Tighten the nuts and the new bush is fitted. You could also use a G-clamp to push the new bush in but it is useful to have a small piece of tube as a guide to keep it square. Keith That is what I did, plus a home made spring compressor, admittedly nowhere as nice as Marco’s (no ball joint, just larger holes for the nuts to accommodate the misalignment) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
earckens Posted August 28, 2021 Report Share Posted August 28, 2021 Marco's spring compressor tool is the best since invention of sliced bread, so glad I could get one a few years ago. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted August 28, 2021 Report Share Posted August 28, 2021 Ups...! You know, sliced bread is one of the basics of our civilisation?!? Lot's of things have been invented since that: the internet, digital cameras, mobile phones, deep frozen Pizza, coffee to go, Aperol Sprizz, smokeless bbq grill... And anyway my tool is the best since?!? That makes me very proud! Cheesr, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted August 28, 2021 Report Share Posted August 28, 2021 The original tool needs no spanner Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted August 29, 2021 Report Share Posted August 29, 2021 Spanners have been invented later than the original tool... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted August 29, 2021 Report Share Posted August 29, 2021 (edited) Don when I rebuilt the suspension on my TR4A I used poly bushings as well. I was able to press them in with a large vice. As for the spring compressor, Marco’s is very nice. However if you are paranoid about refitting that spring under tension, I’ve seen folks drill through the threaded rod and fit a cotter pin at each end. This prevents the nuts from backing off the rod as you release the tension. However being a “belt and braces” kind of guy, I bought this bespoke spring tool for removing the spring. https://windyridgefarm.us/Triumph-Churchill.php All in all, rebuilding the front suspension is not a difficult job, and very satisfying when completed. Jim Edited August 29, 2021 by Tr4aJim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
earckens Posted August 30, 2021 Report Share Posted August 30, 2021 Fitting of poly bushes in upper arms (watch from 1:00): Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted August 30, 2021 Report Share Posted August 30, 2021 If you are replacing all the front suspension bushes in one hit it's not a bad idea to mark / label each "arm " to aid reassembly later. e.g RH , LH , Upper , Lower , front , back as appropriate. ( Once you've gone mad / had a rush of blood to the head. Sandblasted them , repainted them , allowed to dry , laid them out on the bench , you stand back and think " now which one was this one ? ). Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted August 30, 2021 Report Share Posted August 30, 2021 Elin just done this on a 6 worth a look Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted August 30, 2021 Report Share Posted August 30, 2021 OK? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rjs993 Posted August 31, 2021 Report Share Posted August 31, 2021 (edited) Hi, Q: When fitting a poly bush to the bottom of a front shock absorber (Gaz adjustable) on a TR4 should silicon grease be applied to the outside of the bush (the part that is in contact with the shocker)? Opinion seems to swing between "silicon grease should only be applied to the inside surface" (i.e. the hole in the bush) and the alternate view which is "apply a thin layer of silicon grease to the outside of the bush to help fitting and to avoid squeaking". Views please? Thanks Robert Edited August 31, 2021 by rjs993 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted August 31, 2021 Report Share Posted August 31, 2021 Robert i would really only use the silicone grease on the inner hole in normal circs. but recognise that you’d use the grease for fitting purposes to save ones sanity if struggling. I don’t think the squeak would be generated at the outer bush to shocker interface Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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