JTY Posted June 19, 2021 Report Share Posted June 19, 2021 Dear all I am wondering as I am about to refit the master brake cilinder to my freshly painted body if anyone has ever come up with some sort of clever drip tray design to prevent paint damage in case of brake fluid leaks in that area. I think I remember there was one on ebay many years ago, but that it proved to be a poor fit and, well, I can't seem to find it anymore anyway. If someone ever tried a smart solution or could help with design ideas, much appreciated! Cheers Jeroen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 19, 2021 Report Share Posted June 19, 2021 Hi Jerone, poster Z320 posted some info on a MC drip tray on the TR4 forum just a few weeks ago. TRy a search Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted June 19, 2021 Report Share Posted June 19, 2021 Here you go, Marcos idea...it's excellent. It's in the thread "Flies like brake fluid (brake fluide leak container)" well thought out allowing a reservoir to be held under the cylinders to collect any dripping brake fluid, and give you a chance to replace the seals at your leisure without needing a repaint. These are Marcos photos below. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JTY Posted June 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2021 Many thanks already! A custom made aluminium drip tray may be the solution. The TR6 setup (in my case LHD) differs from the pics from Marcos however with the brake servo. Any thoughts on a clever design for that? Best regards Jeroen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 19, 2021 Report Share Posted June 19, 2021 50 minutes ago, JTY said: Many thanks already! A custom made aluminium drip tray may be the solution. The TR6 setup (in my case LHD) differs from the pics from Marcos however with the brake servo. Any thoughts on a clever design for that? Best regards Jeroen For the brake servo, Dave IOW Came up with a good idea for his 5, there is a bleed hole below the master where it joins the servo he fitted a small drain tube into it with a pipe down to below chassis level. You can just see it on this picture Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted June 19, 2021 Report Share Posted June 19, 2021 Just use silicone fluid and no need to worry. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted June 19, 2021 Report Share Posted June 19, 2021 (edited) As Mick explained, and I did before so time ago, my consern was never paint or rust - but my trousers and the carpets. Good to know DOT5 causes no problems there. It must be a miracle liquid?!? Edited June 19, 2021 by Z320 my bad English Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted June 19, 2021 Report Share Posted June 19, 2021 2 hours ago, Z320 said: As Mick explained, and I did before so time ago, my consern was never paint or rust - but my trousers and the carpets. Good to no DOT5 causes no problems there. It must be a miracle liquid?!? I see... silicone isn't going to do much to your carpets. Particularly if they are dark coloured :-) but in all honesty and 30 years running old cars only once have I had a leak that got through to the interior. But then generally I fit new master cylinders whenever I buy a new project as they are rather mission critical and then check every year for weeping. Seems like good practice? Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted June 19, 2021 Report Share Posted June 19, 2021 Probably a stupid question but do both the brake/clutch MC generally weep as a normal thing? If so it seems a bit of a design flaw if they do. If rebuilt and re-sleeved with SS by someone like Past Parts will this offer a long term fix? In the past I've seen a SS drip trays on e Bay for the clutch from a guy in Auz. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted June 20, 2021 Report Share Posted June 20, 2021 10 hours ago, PodOne said: Probably a stupid question but do both the brake/clutch MC generally weep as a normal thing? If so it seems a bit of a design flaw if they do. If rebuilt and re-sleeved with SS by someone like Past Parts will this offer a long term fix? In the past I've seen a SS drip trays on e Bay for the clutch from a guy in Auz. Andy They shouldn't weep at all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted June 20, 2021 Report Share Posted June 20, 2021 12 hours ago, Tim D. said: But then generally I fit new master cylinders whenever I buy a new project as they are rather mission critical and then check every year for weeping. Seems like good practice? Cheers Tim Indeed this is a good practice, but if you want to use the original masters, or anyway you use new ones, you could fit a drip tray below or a drain tube as Stuart shows. Only for your own good feeling / satisfaction? Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JeffH Posted June 20, 2021 Report Share Posted June 20, 2021 Hi Jeroen This link may be useful-it is for the drip tray from Australia mentioned above-postage may not make it worth while though https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164792614501?hash=item265e67be65:g:HOAAAOxyXWdQ8HRi Regards Jeff Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JochemsTR Posted June 20, 2021 Report Share Posted June 20, 2021 1 hour ago, Tim D. said: They shouldn't weep at all. +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KiwiTR6 Posted June 20, 2021 Report Share Posted June 20, 2021 13 hours ago, JeffH said: Hi Jeroen This link may be useful-it is for the drip tray from Australia mentioned above-postage may not make it worth while though https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164792614501?hash=item265e67be65:g:HOAAAOxyXWdQ8HRi Regards Jeff That is for the clutch MC. I now run silicon fluid in both systems for the very reason that it won't damage the paint if there is in leakage (there shouldn't be if the master cylinder is rebuilt correctly - mine wasn't), but it has plenty of other benefits as well. There are those who argue that it is more compressible than normal fluid, but the brakes on my car are, according to the mechanic who carries out its 6-monthly warrant of fitness. "the best he's ever experienced on a classic car". Admittedly I also run an Audi electric brake booster vacuum pump, but they were still excellent before that was fitted. Gavin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KiwiTR6 Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 On 6/20/2021 at 3:14 AM, stuart said: For the brake servo, Dave IOW Came up with a good idea for his 5, there is a bleed hole below the master where it joins the servo he fitted a small drain tube into it with a pipe down to below chassis level. You can just see it on this picture Stuart. Hi Stuart. I'm intrigued by this photo. Off-topic I know, but the car appears to have a filler strip running along the top of the RH fender. Am I correct, and if so, what was used? My TR has a repro bonnet that was fitted after the person who sandblasted it overheated and buckled the original (all prior to my ownership). Unfortunately, the side gaps between the bonnet and the fenders are noticeably wider than they should be and although I could probably adjust the fenders in a bit to reduce this, they will never be as narrow as they should be. Regards Gavin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 7 hours ago, KiwiTR6 said: Hi Stuart. I'm intrigued by this photo. Off-topic I know, but the car appears to have a filler strip running along the top of the RH fender. Am I correct, and if so, what was used? My TR has a repro bonnet that was fitted after the person who sandblasted it overheated and buckled the original (all prior to my ownership). Unfortunately, the side gaps between the bonnet and the fenders are noticeably wider than they should be and although I could probably adjust the fenders in a bit to reduce this, they will never be as narrow as they should be. Regards Gavin Its a TR5 and thats the wing beading as fitted to those cars. I have successfully narrowed the gap between by either leading the wing edges or leading the bonnet edges, you can also bend in the inner wings slightly which also achieves the same effect, thats not so easy on a 6 as on 4/4a/5 as theres a bit more strength in them. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
heckler Posted June 27, 2021 Report Share Posted June 27, 2021 Fitted this to mine ,just in case there was ever a weep. Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 Nice idea but without a lip at the bottom brake fluid will still run down onto the paint. I'd be tempted to remove it and bend a lip into it to retain it. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JTY Posted June 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 Many thanks, everyone! I have some clues now to further overthink. If I come up with something, I'll let you know of course. @heckler How did you fix that aluminium drip plate? Best regards Jeroen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KiwiTR6 Posted June 29, 2021 Report Share Posted June 29, 2021 On 6/21/2021 at 8:16 PM, stuart said: Its a TR5 and thats the wing beading as fitted to those cars. I have successfully narrowed the gap between by either leading the wing edges or leading the bonnet edges, you can also bend in the inner wings slightly which also achieves the same effect, thats not so easy on a 6 as on 4/4a/5 as theres a bit more strength in them. Stuart. Thanks Stuart. Lead is out of the question as the car's completed and immaculate, but there is some room for minor panel adjustment. However, I'll also have to realign the doors to match so I'm in no hurry to fix this particular issue. Gavin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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