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Whilst trying again to sort out ongoing o/d problems (thats a separate issue and I'm talking to 'the man' ie PSC on this) I had to yet again remove the support bracket that goes between floor and fascia.

Decided this time that it would be more manoeuvrable if I disconnected the heater control cables. 

Can anyone explain why they cross over? The cable that activates the air distribution flap on the l/h side of the heater is on the right on the bracket, that operating the valve on the r/h side of the engine is on the left. The cables are contorted and having solid inners don't move that freely.

Before I start modifying them so that the runs are shorter, and more direct, is there a reason for this configuration?

Thanks in advance!!

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They have always been like it as the heater control pulled right out does tend to get in the way of your left leg, I and several others have reversed them for an easier run.

Stuart.

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17 minutes ago, Adam Blackaby said:

Hi Stuart,

Thanks for yours, the car is LHD so my legs aren't in the way!!

Then go for it!

Stuart.

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Will the heater flap cable now end up too long and require curling or cutting?

If the valve cable is too long it might short out on the battery unless clipped/insulated.

Peter W

 

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I swapped the heater controls on my 4A some years ago following Roger's tip. I could not see hat such circuitous cable routings were necessary and the straighter runs give more direct action and smoother operation. I removed 10" from the heater control cable and 5" from the distribution control. I have long legs and haven';t found an issue with the heater control fully out. It is interesting that the cables swapped sides on the TRs 5 and 6, which tends to blow Stuart's theory.

Tim

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5 hours ago, tim hunt said:

It is interesting that the cables swapped sides on the TRs 5 and 6, which tends to blow Stuart's theory.

Tim

In a 5 & 6 they are fitted to the centre switch binnacle not the H frame.;)

Stuart.

Edited by stuart
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Quite right Stuart, I should have known better, with the controls mounted higher up on the 5/6 out of the way of driver's legs they can be fitted for the best cable routings. However, I see from my owner's handbook that the distribution control is mounted on the RHS on BOTH left and right hand drive 4As. If Triumph's intention was to keep  the heater control away from a driver's leg why didn't they swap the control over on a LHD car or, to avoid this, simply have the distribution control on the left since the vast majority of cars were made in LHD? 

Incidentally, I note that the speedo and tacho positions were reversed on LHD 4As, does anyone know the reason for this?

Tim

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37 minutes ago, tim hunt said:

Quite right Stuart, I should have known better, with the controls mounted higher up on the 5/6 out of the way of driver's legs they can be fitted for the best cable routings. However, I see from my owner's handbook that the distribution control is mounted on the RHS on BOTH left and right hand drive 4As. If Triumph's intention was to keep  the heater control away from a driver's leg why didn't they swap the control over on a LHD car or, to avoid this, simply have the distribution control on the left since the vast majority of cars were made in LHD? 

Incidentally, I note that the speedo and tacho positions were reversed on LHD 4As, does anyone know the reason for this?

Tim

Cheaper to produce the same cables for left or right hand drive. The main instrument swap is so the passenger/navigator can read the speedo, this swap came in during TR2 production as they were being rallied and navigators needed to see the speedo as there was no trip meters or other aids apart from stop watch back then.

Stuart.

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  • 2 weeks later...

This is a timely suggestion and sounds a very sensible mod. I take it that cutting the outer cable sheath with a cutting disc is the best approach?

Thanks

David

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1 hour ago, qkingston said:

This is a timely suggestion and sounds a very sensible mod. I take it that cutting the outer cable sheath with a cutting disc is the best approach?

Thanks

David

I just use a hacksaw to cut the outer as its a bit more controllable.

Stuart.

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4 minutes ago, qkingston said:

ok thanks Stuart, would you agree with Tim's cable length adjustment?

David

I tend to adjust to length on the car. That way you know its right for your car.

Stuart.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I hope I'm not too late,

I wouldn't recommend swapping. I tried it on my 4A years ago: The water control is okay but the heater flap cable becomes too close and too short to the flap control arm. The control cable is too stiff to allow the correct geometry as the flap control arm moves through its arc. I swapped mine back when I completed my second rebuild. In fact I'm generally swapping most things back to how Triumph did them in the first place...

 

John

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45 minutes ago, 8iggles said:

I hope I'm not too late,

I wouldn't recommend swapping. I tried it on my 4A years ago: The water control is okay but the heater flap cable becomes too close and too short to the flap control arm. The control cable is too stiff to allow the correct geometry as the flap control arm moves through its arc. I swapped mine back when I completed my second rebuild. In fact I'm generally swapping most things back to how Triumph did them in the first place...

 

John

Theyve been fine on mine for more than 26yrs swapped. Secret is get the length trimmed exactly right.

Stuart.

Edited by stuart
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Hi John,

 that is an interesting finding.

I have modified my heater flap so that it is either fully open or shut - there is no mid point for the screen de-mist

In the new closed position the de-mist functions all the time. To truly fully close it I shut the out flap.

In doing this mod this reduces the movment of the operating arm on the heater box. So my control knob ony moves about 6mm.

But it does move free. The spindle on the operating arm is free to rotate so the angle of the stiff cabe remains about the same at am=ny position of the arm.

Is your spindle free to rotate?

Roger

 

Edited by RogerH
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