Adam Blackaby Posted June 17, 2021 Report Share Posted June 17, 2021 Whilst trying again to sort out ongoing o/d problems (thats a separate issue and I'm talking to 'the man' ie PSC on this) I had to yet again remove the support bracket that goes between floor and fascia. Decided this time that it would be more manoeuvrable if I disconnected the heater control cables. Can anyone explain why they cross over? The cable that activates the air distribution flap on the l/h side of the heater is on the right on the bracket, that operating the valve on the r/h side of the engine is on the left. The cables are contorted and having solid inners don't move that freely. Before I start modifying them so that the runs are shorter, and more direct, is there a reason for this configuration? Thanks in advance!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 17, 2021 Report Share Posted June 17, 2021 They have always been like it as the heater control pulled right out does tend to get in the way of your left leg, I and several others have reversed them for an easier run. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 17, 2021 Report Share Posted June 17, 2021 Hi Adam, I believe that the TR6 was swapped over during production. They are easy(ish) to swap over. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Adam Blackaby Posted June 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2021 Hi Stuart, Thanks for yours, the car is LHD so my legs aren't in the way!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 17, 2021 Report Share Posted June 17, 2021 17 minutes ago, Adam Blackaby said: Hi Stuart, Thanks for yours, the car is LHD so my legs aren't in the way!! Then go for it! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 17, 2021 Report Share Posted June 17, 2021 Will the heater flap cable now end up too long and require curling or cutting? If the valve cable is too long it might short out on the battery unless clipped/insulated. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 17, 2021 Report Share Posted June 17, 2021 Hi pete, yes it will be tooooo long but easy enough to cut shorter The heater valve cable will also be too long Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted June 19, 2021 Report Share Posted June 19, 2021 I swapped the heater controls on my 4A some years ago following Roger's tip. I could not see hat such circuitous cable routings were necessary and the straighter runs give more direct action and smoother operation. I removed 10" from the heater control cable and 5" from the distribution control. I have long legs and haven';t found an issue with the heater control fully out. It is interesting that the cables swapped sides on the TRs 5 and 6, which tends to blow Stuart's theory. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 19, 2021 Report Share Posted June 19, 2021 (edited) 5 hours ago, tim hunt said: It is interesting that the cables swapped sides on the TRs 5 and 6, which tends to blow Stuart's theory. Tim In a 5 & 6 they are fitted to the centre switch binnacle not the H frame. Stuart. Edited June 19, 2021 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted June 20, 2021 Report Share Posted June 20, 2021 Quite right Stuart, I should have known better, with the controls mounted higher up on the 5/6 out of the way of driver's legs they can be fitted for the best cable routings. However, I see from my owner's handbook that the distribution control is mounted on the RHS on BOTH left and right hand drive 4As. If Triumph's intention was to keep the heater control away from a driver's leg why didn't they swap the control over on a LHD car or, to avoid this, simply have the distribution control on the left since the vast majority of cars were made in LHD? Incidentally, I note that the speedo and tacho positions were reversed on LHD 4As, does anyone know the reason for this? Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 20, 2021 Report Share Posted June 20, 2021 37 minutes ago, tim hunt said: Quite right Stuart, I should have known better, with the controls mounted higher up on the 5/6 out of the way of driver's legs they can be fitted for the best cable routings. However, I see from my owner's handbook that the distribution control is mounted on the RHS on BOTH left and right hand drive 4As. If Triumph's intention was to keep the heater control away from a driver's leg why didn't they swap the control over on a LHD car or, to avoid this, simply have the distribution control on the left since the vast majority of cars were made in LHD? Incidentally, I note that the speedo and tacho positions were reversed on LHD 4As, does anyone know the reason for this? Tim Cheaper to produce the same cables for left or right hand drive. The main instrument swap is so the passenger/navigator can read the speedo, this swap came in during TR2 production as they were being rallied and navigators needed to see the speedo as there was no trip meters or other aids apart from stop watch back then. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 This is a timely suggestion and sounds a very sensible mod. I take it that cutting the outer cable sheath with a cutting disc is the best approach? Thanks David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 1 hour ago, qkingston said: This is a timely suggestion and sounds a very sensible mod. I take it that cutting the outer cable sheath with a cutting disc is the best approach? Thanks David I just use a hacksaw to cut the outer as its a bit more controllable. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 ok thanks Stuart, would you agree with Tim's cable length adjustment? David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 4 minutes ago, qkingston said: ok thanks Stuart, would you agree with Tim's cable length adjustment? David I tend to adjust to length on the car. That way you know its right for your car. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 Of course, thank you Quote Link to post Share on other sites
8iggles Posted July 18, 2021 Report Share Posted July 18, 2021 I hope I'm not too late, I wouldn't recommend swapping. I tried it on my 4A years ago: The water control is okay but the heater flap cable becomes too close and too short to the flap control arm. The control cable is too stiff to allow the correct geometry as the flap control arm moves through its arc. I swapped mine back when I completed my second rebuild. In fact I'm generally swapping most things back to how Triumph did them in the first place... John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 18, 2021 Report Share Posted July 18, 2021 (edited) 45 minutes ago, 8iggles said: I hope I'm not too late, I wouldn't recommend swapping. I tried it on my 4A years ago: The water control is okay but the heater flap cable becomes too close and too short to the flap control arm. The control cable is too stiff to allow the correct geometry as the flap control arm moves through its arc. I swapped mine back when I completed my second rebuild. In fact I'm generally swapping most things back to how Triumph did them in the first place... John Theyve been fine on mine for more than 26yrs swapped. Secret is get the length trimmed exactly right. Stuart. Edited July 18, 2021 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 18, 2021 Report Share Posted July 18, 2021 (edited) Hi John, that is an interesting finding. I have modified my heater flap so that it is either fully open or shut - there is no mid point for the screen de-mist In the new closed position the de-mist functions all the time. To truly fully close it I shut the out flap. In doing this mod this reduces the movment of the operating arm on the heater box. So my control knob ony moves about 6mm. But it does move free. The spindle on the operating arm is free to rotate so the angle of the stiff cabe remains about the same at am=ny position of the arm. Is your spindle free to rotate? Roger Edited July 18, 2021 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted November 13, 2021 Report Share Posted November 13, 2021 On 7/18/2021 at 1:10 PM, 8iggles said: I hope I'm not too late, I wouldn't recommend swapping. I tried it on my 4A years ago: The water control is okay but the heater flap cable becomes too close and too short to the flap control arm. The control cable is too stiff to allow the correct geometry as the flap control arm moves through its arc. I swapped mine back when I completed my second rebuild. In fact I'm generally swapping most things back to how Triumph did them in the first place... John I've got to this at last and I can see John's point, a short cable run to the heater flap is a bit awkward due to the angle of the bracket which holds the outer cable on the heater body, it forces the cable upwards and pulls the LH flap control switch up from the horizontal position in the 'H' frame, I think with a longer run from the RHS this wouldn't be such a problem; is there some other trick to it? Rgds David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 13, 2021 Report Share Posted November 13, 2021 Hi David, you do not need to attach the outer cable. Just attach the inner cable to the flap arm (using the swivel joint) and you will see it works fine. The outer cable is held by the knob assembly. The inner cable is solid and so is happy yo push and pull. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted November 13, 2021 Report Share Posted November 13, 2021 Ok thanks Roger, I guess that makes sense on a short run, thank you! David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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