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After twenty-two years of trouble free motoring my TR6 threw a massive wobbler.

The cable on the injection until came adrift leaving the engine at full throttle when I started her up. I thought I had repaired the cable roadside only to find the throttle was still fully open. In all the engine was only at full revs for around ten seconds but that was enough for the big ends to go. I am no mechanic but Im sure this will be an engine out job to repair the damage.

Does anyone know a good mechanic. I live in Horton Kirby, Kent, ten minutes from junction 3 of M25, near Brands Hatch.

I would be most grateful for any recommendations, would it be possible to do an exchange ?

I can not complain as I have been very lucky in the past but I am still absolutely gutted.

As always, thanks in advance.

Grant

 

IMG_4656.jpeg

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Happened to me when the injection linkage jammed in the heater hose. Tacho went right off the scale. I was lucky and switched the engine off in time to prevent damage , and I offered a quiet thanks to the people that rebuilt my engine as nothing let go.

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9 hours ago, Grant Coulson said:

In all the engine was only at full revs for around ten seconds but that was enough for the big ends to go. I am no mechanic but Im sure this will be an engine out job to repair the damage.

Really sorry to hear of your car's situation Grant..  How some days turn out eh !?   ..even nice sunny ones can sometimes hold unwanted surprises.

I'm relatively new to car engines, and have never worked on a TR6 engine, but still.. I don't understand why big-end bearings should give up after 10 seconds of no engine load at full revs.?  One presumes oil was in the engine.   If you, or the AA man, had suggested a push rod must have been bent or come out of its cup ..then I'd comprehend how reciprocating components can bounce and can get out of sync at high revs.  And then, because of a bent push-rod, a valve had dropped and been bent against the piston crown.. well yeah, that's a bummer ..but very possibly you're likely to get away with just having the cylinder head removed (with engine in situ.)   Not at all as drastic as you might have first feared.   I do hope even that is the worse case here, and you get away with just a new set of push-rods.

Perhaps very-much-more-experienced TR owners / restorers / racers might otherwise correct my thinking and explain what is likely to have happen to an ohv engine when revved under no load.

cheers, Pete 

 

 

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I have no recommendation for rebuilders in the UK (because I live in Holland).

How do you know the big-end bearings have failed? Anyway, if the engine no longer runs or makes strange noises, it will probably need to be dismantled for inspection.

If your block is the original, I would keep that. 

Good luck with the repair. If the block comes out, inspect/repair other components like clutch, metering unit (convert to unleaded(, injectors too if these were not serviced for a long time.

Waldi

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Hi Grant,

Sorry to hear of you car's problem. Like Pete Bfg above, I would be surprised if the big ends have failed in 10 seconds of high revving without load. Does the engine turn over or is it seized/jammed? If it turns on the starter motor, a compression test may reveal valve problems. Also, spinning on the starter motor with plugs out should generate a little oil pressure, but if there's zero oil pressure then crank bearings are indeed suspect.

Further investigation is needed before concluding the engine must be rebuilt. Remove the rocker cover and look for bent pushrods, pushrods that have jumped out of position, broken rockers and valves that don't close (due to damage if in contact with a piston at high rpm). It's probably also going to need cylinder head removal. If the engine has to be removed for a rebuild, as said already, it's better to get your own unit rebuilt to retain the car's original engine number.

As for engine rebuilders, if you're prepared to go north of the river, TRGB at Somersham in Cambridgeshire have an excellent reputation.

Nigel

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The sump & all bearing caps can be removed  with engine in car to inspect bearings

& crank shaft journals for damage.

 

                                   Good luck with regards

                                                            Harvey

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tr enterprises are a 3 hour drive from you worth the investment in time in my mind, and i'm  trusting them with my money.

http://trenterprises.com

 

but Protek engineering are in oxfordshire 2.5 hours

 

H

( time correct according to google maps)

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Maidstone Sports Cars have been in the TR engine business for a long time: http://www.maidstonesportscars.co.uk/car-marques/triumph/engine-gearbox/ and they are very near you. I have no personal experience as they are not near me but others on this forum may know them and the work they do.

Micki

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Started my 6 up in the car park of the "World Peace Cafe" in N Yorks, throttle pedal caught on the mat. 

Few seconds with the rev counter on the stops certainly disturbed the peace but I got away with it!

Cheap rev limiter might be a worthwhile investment.

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How do you know the big ends have gone? As you said “ you are no mechanic” so as the rest of the guys suggest a little investigation is in order.

turn over the engine by hand with the plugs out first. No tight spots continue by spinning the engine on the starter, you should get a bit of oil pressure. 

If successful, go for a start. Monitor oil pressure and then decide what to do

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