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Beware of J Type gearbox mounts sold for converting a sidescreen to a saloon box. The mount has a cutout for the solenoid on one side and the metal is too thin for the job.

I just experienced a failure (cracked and broken mount) causing the back of the box to drop until the uv joint hit on the centre chassis section.

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Do you have a photo Peter?  How long had it been in use? 

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Have you informed the supplier of this failure, and what response did you receive?

If you consider that response is inadequate, I suggest you raise a Parts Quality Initiative (PQI) report.

Ian Cornish

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Peter, I would be interested in where this bracket failed (pic?), had it been in use for long? I have that bracket fitted on a J Type conversion, car still at the pre-final paint and gearbox easily accessible. I purchased an alternative version (from MEV spares) using a Spitfire/GT6 gearbox mount on a solid base, but the resultant height doesn't look right

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The bracket is formed with a very tight bend and it failed along the fold line. I was in a group touring outback Queensland when it failed at 120 kph 200 km from civilization with no mobile phone coverage. Cost me a very expensive ride on a tow truck but got it "repaired" to continue the journey with the help of a couple of fellow travellers and a small town workshop who allowed us the use of his equipment.

The mount has been on the car for about 18 months but this was the first long trip over some rough roads.

There is room to add some small gussets at each end of the mount to strengthen the fold.1056965646_temprepair.thumb.jpg.2a36602653ab2c1c3b4f6dd0d265858d.jpg1771872352_temprepair2.thumb.jpg.173c937b2d00fbb469f6ca990b3de9be.jpg

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Interesting Peter - thank you for that.

There are a number of users who have that same bracket, including me, and some of us have found it necessary to open up the hole a bit to increase clearance for the solenoid, so the bracket has even less 'meat' than yours. I hadn't heard of any failure like this before.  Something else to keep an eye on. 

 

Edited by RobH
typo
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Tight bends are not normally  a great issue, for what is, mild steel.

However if it was worked on a particularly cold day, or it had rust patches on the external bend then it may start to crack.

Worse still - it does not crack but the surface is seriously stressed. Bouncing about in the car causes the stressed area to start cracking.

Putting a fillet in at each end would certainly help. Or even running a bead of weld along that external curve.

Sadly too many of these cheap products do not have bend radii calculated. You can see that the inside curve is as sharp as you could get it 'L' 90' - not good.

 

Roger

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It would be interesting to know whether there have been any other similar failures though.  18 months sporadic service isn't much time for fatigue cracking to develop. 

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