John L Posted May 26, 2021 Report Share Posted May 26, 2021 I have fitted many of these Powerspark kits to my friends cars and got 2 cars of my own with them. They are not expensive, and I do have a spare, not used yet, simple to fit, and eliminates the wear on the rotor, which upset points, and doesnt have any problems with condensers. They only main issue they do need silicone ignition wires NOT wire leads. https://simonbbc.com/Powerspark-Electronic-Ignition-Kit-for-Lucas-22D6--25D6-Distributor-K1--R4 Once fitted there is no fiddling needed, or readjusting. I still using the std coil. My TR5 2 years ago did 5500kms to Helsinky via Moscow and back, only problem was the Bosch battery failed in Moscow. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted May 26, 2021 Report Share Posted May 26, 2021 The one on my 6 has done 1 RBRR and 10 CR. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted May 27, 2021 Report Share Posted May 27, 2021 17 hours ago, Mk2 Chopper said: Maybe I should try some electronic ignition and see what difference it might make. But which one to go for? The Luminition lasted well for you, so that's a plus, the other one that's talked about is Pertronix, the igniter 2 having the fabled constant dwell. Sorry I feel I've muscled in on the thread, but hopefully it'll help the original poster. Gareth Pertronix is very popular here in the sidescreen cars. Seems to work well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mk2 Chopper Posted May 27, 2021 Report Share Posted May 27, 2021 9 hours ago, John McCormack said: Pertronix is very popular here in the sidescreen cars. Seems to work well. One of my fellow club members has it, others have lower cost ones. I think I may go with Pertronix though. Gareth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kenj Posted May 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2021 Thanks everyone. Ordering condenser from distributor doctor. Watch this space. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mk2 Chopper Posted May 30, 2021 Report Share Posted May 30, 2021 That's great, hope it sorts it out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Coops Posted May 30, 2021 Report Share Posted May 30, 2021 hi, I just thought I would add my bit, I have had experience of the wire from the coil to the distributor causing these symptoms "... I think what happens is that perhaps just one strand is left, which naturally gets hot, which raises it’s resistance. It took me a while to figure this out, because every time I checked it with my voltmeter it looked ok because the meter needs very little power to work, unlike the coil. The other very common problem is the ‘pigs tail’ wire between the points and the connection on the distributor body. Good luck! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kenj Posted June 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2021 Condenser arrived yesterday, about to fit the new one . At the same time, I will check all of your other suggestions. Thanks again for everyone's input. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mk2 Chopper Posted June 5, 2021 Report Share Posted June 5, 2021 Just do the condensor before anything else to see. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kenj Posted June 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2021 Started it up, and ran it up to normal temperature, started to miss and eventually cut out - usual symptoms. Changed condensor and points - started on the button. Ran for 20 minutes to reach normal temp, no misfire, no probelms. Stopped and restarted a few times perfect. Left it for 20 minutes ready to run down the road to test, started OK, then misfired and cut out. Now doesn't start. Fuel pumping well, so now carbs ????? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mk2 Chopper Posted June 5, 2021 Report Share Posted June 5, 2021 Check you have a spark, take one plug out and have it touching against engine and see if it sparks when cranking. Gareth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted June 5, 2021 Report Share Posted June 5, 2021 First thing should be to re-check the last thing you did. Open the dizzy again and check everything, particularly the points gap. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted June 5, 2021 Report Share Posted June 5, 2021 Plastic points can wear fast when first fitted, especially if fiited without a smear of grease. As RobH says - gap the points. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kenj Posted June 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2021 Went back and checked everything I had done previously, plugs/gaps, points gap, etc etc, still wouldn't start. Put the old condensor back in without changing anything else and car started on the button. Put new condensor in and wouldn't start again. I know that after running for a while with the old condensor that the backfiring will start and car will eventually stop, but didn't expect that the new condensor would be worse ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted June 13, 2021 Report Share Posted June 13, 2021 There are some awful parts out there. Swap for electronic. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barkerwilliams Posted June 13, 2021 Report Share Posted June 13, 2021 It seems if you touch the points the car then starts. Is the 2" earth lead under the points between the distributor plate and chassis electrically connected? As this plate constantly moves the wires can fracture internally in the sleeve and not appear to be broken. Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted June 13, 2021 Report Share Posted June 13, 2021 +1 I can't help feeling there is something else going on - perhaps every time you do something in the dizzy you are disturbing a connection which isn't a good one? The only way the condenser could prevent the engine running, is if it has gone short circuit. It is difficult to believe that a new DD one would do that but easy enough to test if you have an ohmmeter. When you replace the condenser you must disturb the connection to the points which includes the wire from the coil that comes through the side of the dizzy. Are you sure the plastic insulating washers on the points are assembled in the right order so the points spring is not touching earth, and that the flexible wire is making the proper connection and is not broken inside ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
M. Pied Lourd Posted June 13, 2021 Report Share Posted June 13, 2021 Check your connections at the rear of the ignition switch. Cheers, Tush Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted June 14, 2021 Report Share Posted June 14, 2021 On 6/6/2021 at 1:27 AM, Mk2 Chopper said: Check you have a spark, take one plug out and have it touching against engine and see if it sparks when cranking. Gareth So you are not getting a good spark when it stops? Are the plugs wet? I just want to rule out any fuel related causes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mk2 Chopper Posted June 14, 2021 Report Share Posted June 14, 2021 5 hours ago, Mike C said: So you are not getting a good spark when it stops? Are the plugs wet? I just want to rule out any fuel related causes. Mike if you look at his post after mine: 19 hours ago, Kenj said: Went back and checked everything I had done previously, plugs/gaps, points gap, etc etc, still wouldn't start. Put the old condensor back in without changing anything else and car started on the button. Put new condensor in and wouldn't start again. I know that after running for a while with the old condensor that the backfiring will start and car will eventually stop, but didn't expect that the new condensor would be worse ! So it seems to be an electrical issue, I suggest he gets a cheap electronic ignition if no faults can be found in his wiring and see if that sorts it. Gareth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted June 14, 2021 Report Share Posted June 14, 2021 1 hour ago, Mk2 Chopper said: I suggest he gets a cheap electronic ignition if no faults can be found in his wiring and see if that sorts it. That's a bit like buying a new wheel because the tyre is punctured and you can't find the leak. There must be a fault and proper diagnostic checks will find it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
keith1948 Posted June 14, 2021 Report Share Posted June 14, 2021 Check that one of the plug leads isn't shorting onto inside of bonnet or some other nearby earthed object. A friend of mine had this problem when we were in France a few years ago. He had slightly longer plug leads on his car and one was touching the bonnet when it was closed. Car ran ok when bonnet was open. Have a look when it is dark to see sparks in the engine bay from plug leads (obviously you can't see the problem my friend had with bonnet closed but may show up other issues). Sometimes it is the simplest problems that can take ages to resolve. Have you replaced any of the rubber connectors on the fuel lines? My dad had a Vitesse back in the 60's where a small flap of rubber had peeled up inside the fuel pipe creating a one way valve. Also me and my dad once spent 2 or 3 hours trying to figure out why it wouldn't start after a points change. Some numpty (me) had got the insulating washer in the wrong order on the points. Good hunting Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted June 14, 2021 Report Share Posted June 14, 2021 The spade connector from the loom to the disy can corrode inside the insulation. Stripmand remake. Happened to me. P Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mk2 Chopper Posted June 14, 2021 Report Share Posted June 14, 2021 4 hours ago, RobH said: That's a bit like buying a new wheel because the tyre is punctured and you can't find the leak. There must be a fault and proper diagnostic checks will find it. I thought he'd established new condensor car won't start, old condensor starts fine but will have the original symptoms after a while. So electronic ignition should solve it. The analogy is more like you buy a new tyre, which sorts the puncture you couldn't find, plus you get brand new tread! Gareth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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