Jump to content

TR6 Backfires and cuts out.


Recommended Posts

I have fitted many of these Powerspark kits to my friends cars and got 2 cars of my own with them. They are not expensive, and I do have a spare, not used yet, simple to fit, and eliminates the wear on the rotor, which upset points, and doesnt have any problems with condensers.  They only main issue they do need silicone ignition wires NOT wire leads.  https://simonbbc.com/Powerspark-Electronic-Ignition-Kit-for-Lucas-22D6--25D6-Distributor-K1--R4

Once fitted there is no fiddling needed, or readjusting.

I still using the std coil.

My TR5 2 years ago did 5500kms to Helsinky via Moscow and back, only problem was the Bosch battery failed in Moscow.

John

Link to post
Share on other sites

The one on my 6 has done 1 RBRR and  10 CR. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, Mk2 Chopper said:

Maybe I should try some electronic ignition and see what difference it might make. 

But which one to go for? The Luminition lasted well for you, so that's a plus, the other one that's talked about is Pertronix, the igniter 2 having the fabled constant dwell. 

Sorry I feel I've muscled in on the thread, but hopefully it'll help the original poster. 

Gareth

Pertronix is very popular here in the sidescreen cars. Seems to work well.

Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, John McCormack said:

Pertronix is very popular here in the sidescreen cars. Seems to work well.

One of my fellow club members has it, others have lower cost ones. I think I may go with Pertronix though. 

Gareth

Link to post
Share on other sites

hi, I just thought I would add my bit, I have had experience of the wire from the coil to the distributor causing these symptoms "... I think what happens is that perhaps just one strand is left, which naturally gets hot, which raises it’s resistance. It took me a while to figure this out, because every time I checked it with my voltmeter it looked ok because the meter needs very little power to work, unlike the coil. The other very common problem is the ‘pigs tail’ wire between the points and the connection on the distributor body. Good luck!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Started it up, and ran it up to normal temperature, started to miss and eventually cut out - usual symptoms.

Changed condensor and points - started on the button.

Ran for 20 minutes to reach normal temp, no misfire, no probelms.

Stopped and restarted a few times perfect.

Left it for 20 minutes ready to run down the road to test, started OK, then misfired and cut out.

Now doesn't start.  Fuel pumping well, so now carbs ?????

Link to post
Share on other sites

Check you have a spark, take one plug out and have it touching against engine and see if it sparks when cranking. 

Gareth

Link to post
Share on other sites

First thing should be to re-check the last thing you did. Open the dizzy again and check everything, particularly the points gap. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Plastic points can wear fast when first fitted, especially if fiited without a smear of grease. As RobH says - gap the points.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Went back and checked everything I had done previously, plugs/gaps, points gap, etc etc, still wouldn't start.

Put the old condensor back in without changing anything else and car started on the button.

Put new condensor in and wouldn't start again.

I know that after running for a while with the old condensor that the backfiring will start and car will eventually stop, but didn't expect that the new condensor would be worse !

Link to post
Share on other sites

There are some awful parts out there. Swap for electronic. 

Tim

Link to post
Share on other sites

It seems if you touch the points the car then starts.

Is the 2" earth lead under the points between the distributor plate and chassis electrically connected? As this plate constantly moves the wires can fracture internally in the sleeve and not appear to be broken.

Alan

Link to post
Share on other sites

+1

I can't help feeling there is something else going on - perhaps every time you do something in the dizzy you are disturbing a connection which isn't a good one?

The only way the condenser could prevent the engine running,  is if it has gone short circuit.  It is difficult to believe that a new DD one would do that but easy enough to test if you have an ohmmeter.

When you replace the condenser you must disturb the connection to the points which includes the wire from the coil that comes through the side of the dizzy. Are you sure the plastic insulating washers on the points are assembled in the right order so the points spring is not touching earth, and that the flexible wire is making the proper connection and is not broken inside ?

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/6/2021 at 1:27 AM, Mk2 Chopper said:

Check you have a spark, take one plug out and have it touching against engine and see if it sparks when cranking. 

Gareth

So you are not getting a good spark when it stops? Are the plugs wet?  I just want to rule out any  fuel related causes.

Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Mike C said:

So you are not getting a good spark when it stops? Are the plugs wet?  I just want to rule out any  fuel related causes.

Mike if you look at his post after mine:

19 hours ago, Kenj said:

Went back and checked everything I had done previously, plugs/gaps, points gap, etc etc, still wouldn't start.

Put the old condensor back in without changing anything else and car started on the button.

Put new condensor in and wouldn't start again.

I know that after running for a while with the old condensor that the backfiring will start and car will eventually stop, but didn't expect that the new condensor would be worse !

So it seems to be an electrical issue, I suggest he gets a cheap electronic ignition if no faults can be found in his wiring and see if that sorts it. 

Gareth

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Mk2 Chopper said:

I suggest he gets a cheap electronic ignition if no faults can be found in his wiring and see if that sorts it. 

 

That's a bit like buying a new wheel because the tyre is punctured and you can't find the leak. :D

There must be a fault and proper diagnostic checks will find it. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Check that one of the plug leads isn't shorting onto inside of bonnet or some other nearby earthed object. A friend of mine had this problem when we were in France a few years ago. He had slightly longer plug leads on his car and one was touching the bonnet when it was closed. Car ran ok when bonnet was open. Have a look when it is dark to see sparks in the engine bay from plug leads (obviously you can't see the problem my friend had with bonnet closed but may show up other issues). 

Sometimes it is the simplest problems that can take ages to resolve.

Have you replaced any of the rubber connectors on the fuel lines? My dad had a Vitesse back in the 60's where a small flap of rubber had peeled up inside the fuel pipe creating a one way valve. Also me and my dad once spent 2 or 3 hours trying to figure out why it wouldn't start after a points change. Some numpty (me) had got the insulating washer in the wrong order on the points.

Good hunting

Keith

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, RobH said:

That's a bit like buying a new wheel because the tyre is punctured and you can't find the leak. :D

There must be a fault and proper diagnostic checks will find it. 

I thought he'd established new condensor car won't start, old condensor starts fine but will have the original symptoms after a while. So electronic ignition should solve it. 

The analogy is more like you buy a new tyre, which sorts the puncture you couldn't find, plus you get brand new tread!

Gareth

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.