Long term layup advice.

[Hamish]

I know it’s not a tr but apart from engine and fibreglass body it may as well be !! So forgive this post here. 
 

Hi folks

My dads old Daimler sp250 hasn’t turned a wheel since 2018. It is in a garage and has a cover that has been used for decades. 
it has been started a few times since and is up on axle stands and park brake off. Wheels turned periodically to move disc/pad position. The chrome has had a couple of wd40 applications. As has the under bonnet electrics.

I think points replaced with electronic accuspark type ?

it has all the fluids in it, little if no fuel now. 

battery on a conditioner charger ( or should be)

I will have an hour or so spare this weekend whilst visiting my mum 250 miles away to fettle. 

is there anything critical I should do for the next unknown period of “neglect”

I was thinking chocking the clutch pedal down

may be oil down the bores ?? ( if so how much??)

As I say priority is seeing mum, now visits permitted and not car work so simple but effective is the order of the day.

thanks

H

[Motorsport Mickey]

+ 1 for chocking the clutch down, and about 5cc of oil in each bore.

With the wheels off the floor I would wind the steering back and forth between left and right locks a dozen or so times to help distribute any lubricant, and pull the handbrake on and off to keep the rear brakes free and it’s linkages.

Mick Richards

Edited May 19, 2021 by Motorsport Mickey

[Waldi]

If you can drive it, that’s the best off course.

Brakes may seize after a couple of years, but not a major issue if you anticipate on a revision once it is driven again.

If you start it, let it run long enough to fully warm the engine, it will remove condensation and protect the inside of the block with a fresh oil film.
It will also keep the carbs and pump from rotting/seizing.

If the car cannot be moved outside of garage, be careful for poisoning yourselves with exhaust fumes, but you with your HSSE-background will know that.

Cheers,

Waldi

[Motorsport Mickey]

Hhhmmmm I’m not in favour of starting the engine any more.
Even if the engine is thoroughly warmed all that happens is the oil mixes with the condensation and tops it up with heat for another increase in it’s water content.
If you spin the engine over on the starter when the spark plugs are out to oil the bores it will distribute oil to the important surfaces without increasing water content by condensation in the oil .

Mick Richards

[Hamish]

Thanks for the advice - confirmation 

I would love to be in a position to properly look after it. Bring it home. But no space so it’s better off where it is. 
 

the odd drive would also be good but insurance, tyres, time etc rule that out as a practical option.

so preparing it for a rest is my option. 
 

waldi you have a good memory about my work !

concentrating on COVID at the moment.

thanks again

H

[stillp]

I'm with Mick on this one - don't start the engine unless you can drive the car. If you're turning it over with the plugs out, try it in the gears (assuming it's solidly on the axle stands) and slip the clutch a bit to polish the rust off.

Pete

[foster461]

I dont have any additional advice but it is way cool having a Daimler Dart in the family. What a quirky car.

[Hamish]

3 hours ago, foster461 said:

I dont have any additional advice but it is way cool having a Daimler Dart in the family. What a quirky car.

Yeah a marmite car love or not.

dad loved them and had about 7 over the years the first being in 1965. 
I have shared this pic before but we recreated a family picture 50 years apart 

lovely engine !!!!

I had one but sold it to get my TR3a 

[MilesA]

On 5/20/2021 at 8:28 AM, Hamish said:

 

lovely engine !!!!

 

+1!

[MilesA]

On 5/19/2021 at 6:17 PM, Motorsport Mickey said:

Hhhmmmm I’m not in favour of starting the engine any more.
Even if the engine is thoroughly warmed all that happens is the oil mixes with the condensation and tops it up with heat for another increase in it’s water content.
If you spin the engine over on the starter when the spark plugs are out to oil the bores it will distribute oil to the important surfaces without increasing water content by condensation in the oil .

Mick Richards

Interesting Mick

Friend has an AH 3000. During lockdown has started it up to full temp a couple of times and then noticed what he thought was some milky white colouration in the oil. No other signs ons of head gasket failure. Had it trailered away to the the workshop for gasket replacement. Nothing untoward found.

My TR has been laid up since September and it may be a while before I can get it running. I was going to disconnect the coil and turn it over on the starter before hand but with plugs in. You would suggest removing them? Never had a car laid up for this long!

Miles

[Motorsport Mickey]

8 minutes ago, MilesA said:

Interesting Mick

I was going to disconnect the coil and turn it over on the starter before hand but with plugs in. You would suggest removing them? 

Miles,

Yes, the plugs just slow down the rotation of engine and cause a much larger battery drain.
With plugs out you’ll get 5 times the engine rotation speed, and pressure showing reasonably quickly...20-40 secs, give it another 20 secs and you’ll get it further throughout the engine. I would put 5 cc ( teaspoonful) down each plug hole prior to spinning the engine to help with upper cylinder lubrication.

Mick Richards

[MilesA]

Brill. Thanks Mick.

[Hamish]

It was a nice day in Devon yesterday. 
 

today is wet and windy. 
 

but soooo good to see my mum. 
 

sp250 was spun over without plugs there are 8 of them it’s like having 2 engines !!

oil pressure to 50lb and I hope distributed about the place now.

then oil down the bores.

I need to consider the carcoon.

one front wheel needed some persuasion to turn all others good. 
 

thanks everyone

 

[stuart]

19 hours ago, Hamish said:

It was a nice day in Devon yesterday. 
 

today is wet and windy. 
 

but soooo good to see my mum. 
 

sp250 was spun over without plugs there are 8 of them it’s like having 2 engines !!

oil pressure to 50lb and I hope distributed about the place now.

then oil down the bores.

I need to consider the carcoon.

one front wheel needed some persuasion to turn all others good. 
 

thanks everyone

 

 

Air chamber is a better option as they stand up on their own so even if the fans fail then it doesnt just drape down over the car.

Stuart.

[DaveB66]

Hi Stuart, Carcoon do a self supporting cover, the Carcoon Veloce (https://www.carcoon.com/carcoon-indoor-veloce). Much better to use than inflatable cover.

Dave

[Motorsport Mickey]

Yeah the framed Carcoons or their copies of are good for supporting the top and make taking the car in and out a single man operation.

If the Carcoon bubble is situated in a single garage it does have stitched in lifting points with straps at the corners and midway down the length. They easily attach to the garage roof or walls, which supports the roof and sides section and allows me to take the car in and out after unzipping the end, pretty much the same as the Airflow or framed 'coons' system...just cheaper.

Mick Richards