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Never start that 15min job on a nice day


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I just wanted to fit an oil cooler bypass hose and go for a run to check oil temps as I think my oil is too cool with the oil cooler on and I have heat exchanger plans ........

i have this type of sandwich plate and I had to cut and butcher the barbed hose fittings to get them off. But the male 1/2 bsp adapter to the smaller threaded end into the sandwich plate came out of the sandwich plate
 

I need the male to male adapter

the 1/2bsp take the barbed hose connector but don’t know the male thread into sandwich plate

and of course I can’t have a run out in the car til it’s sorted.

grrrrrrrrr :(

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Yep, know how that feels. And then chances are, once it's all back together, oil will still seep out somewhere. Well that's what happens to me! Just makes finally completing the job feel sweeter after knocking over the unexpected problems.

Good luck,

Nigel

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Hi H know that feeling all too well.....I’m into day four of bleeding the clutch.........I’m no further forward. Definitely grrrr!

Iain

Ps I’ve tried positive pressure, vacuum on the slave, both and I still have a soft pedal on the first application. Air but it just won’t move.

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Well I can tell you that the adapter reducer is not 3/8 in the oil fittings world. 
best guess it is a 16mm to 1/2bsp. The bsp bit is right. 
So one on order

worst case scenario is I use the old butchered one and a lot of sealing  thread lock  ( it’s not a pretty  sight) but the threads seem to work after a little filing.

how do people know what to order thread wise when there are sooooo many options with our old car fittings

course fine 

bsp

un

af

whitworth

bolt head size

shank threaded size 

tapered 

Bamboozald from Cheshire 

Edited by Hamish
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i might just cross thread it and force it in.

 

those never come out when you need them too

 

:ph34r:

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Hi Hamish,

I once delayed a TRident (DH121) leaving a maintenance hangar by cross threading a screw on an engine. - don;t do it.

Your name will be mud and it will be you calling you it.

 

Have you got a thread gauge for measuring the pitch accurately?  Gauge

The diameter is always apprx as the tips of the threads are often removed when cutting/rolling.

 

Roger

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15 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Hi Hamish,

I once delayed a TRident (DH121) leaving a maintenance hangar by cross threading a screw on an engine. - don;t do it.

Your name will be mud and it will be you calling you it.

 

Have you got a thread gauge for measuring the pitch accurately?  Gauge

The diameter is always apprx as the tips of the threads are often removed when cutting/rolling.

 

Roger

but Roger i've got a really big hammer that i am  sure would do it !!

 

 

no really i have got a little more circumspect in my older age - slightly less bodge it and scarper.

 

those thread gauges look just the ticket

can i be lazy and order the one you linked too ?

as a starter set.

thanks

 

H

 

H

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yeah --- way to easy

:rolleyes:

 

but its part of a bigger heat exchanger plan

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Remove the effing thing completely and then hit it with a hammer to ensure it can’t be refitted when you’re next bored and need something to do!:ph34r: 

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1 hour ago, Hamish said:

but Roger i've got a really big hammer that i am  sure would do it !!

 

 

no really i have got a little more circumspect in my older age - slightly less bodge it and scarper.

 

those thread gauges look just the ticket

can i be lazy and order the one you linked too ?

as a starter set.

thanks

 

H

 

H

Here you go Hamish my bet 10 AN.

image.png.8cb81f0a8feb54bc5ca67235a7523af4.png
 

Mick Richards

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thanks for all the support and advice -- Ben -- ! I'm with you on that at the moment.

 

 

well i have found an agricultural supplier (quite apt really !!)  for my 1/2bsp ( known right size) to M16 adapter

i got all excited when the post man arrived and rushed out to the garage to try it and woo hoo the M16 fits 

went to screw on the 1/2bsp 90 elbow and the adapter thread is too big - checked the invoice ( P and P more than the item!)

and it looks like it should/as i ordered- so not my mistake.

apparently order picker error or the part ended up in the wrong box but they sent a 5/8ths to M16

apparently the correct one is now being posted !! ( he screwed a fitting on to check !)

 

nearly there

 

 

just so you know i needed to fit 90 degree elbows to the sandwich plate but when undoing it - it was the adapter that came loose.

and it was my attempts to get the adapter out of the fitting that mangled it (slightly) 

there is no hex on the  original.  however- believe it or not the larger 1/2bsp has enough good thread for the new elbow to tighten up and at a push the M16 will screw in after a bit of fine file work.  but i wanted a proper part to do it right.

 

 

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On 5/17/2021 at 10:56 PM, Grahamgl said:

Iain,

Just a thought, is the bleed valve on the slave cylinder uppermost?

 Graham 

Hi Graham, at the risk of thread sabotage

Thanks for the  thoughts.

I have tried just about every trick in the book.

The slave cylinder blead is in the correct high position.

positive pressure easy blead

suction easy blead

both together.

3 different master cylinders, two of which are new.

I have raised the front raised the rear, tried the Wedge trick for 3 days on the pedal.

The only constant is that if you pump pressure and keep  it pressurised, it holds until you release it, then you have a soggy pedal.

I’m now convinced it’s a minute air leak, air being so much easier to leak into the system  than a fairly thick fluid will leak out....which it doesn’t even with 20psi of pressure.

my suspicion is the slave cylinder seal...........leaking on return.

Ill report back at the weekend

Iain

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well the correct part has arrived and it was an order picking error thus the part is 1/2bsp to M16.

 

i can now fit the reducer and the pair of 90deg elbows for the oil. 

another small step forward for this man.

 

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1 hour ago, rcreweread said:

Have you changed the flexible hose? You appear to changed everything else.

Cheers Rich

 

Hi Richard, yes thats a PTFE and braided version.

Iain

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Today was a day off so had many fun hours in the garage fitting the oil pipes and fittings for my heat exchanger project. 
the new 1/2bsp m16 adapter thread locked and sealed into the sandwich plate. The new 90degree elbows fitted to sandwich plate. Arranged so they don’t get in the way of the  dipstick.

1/2 oil pipe ( quite inflexible isn’t it ) routed behind dizzy and coil and into heat exchanger unit.

a bit of targeted heat on the pipes got it over the flare ridge on the bottom of the pipe that the mikalor clip tightens over (couldn’t get solder to bind to Ali for a flare at the tip)

cranked the car over without starting to get oil pressure up / thus heat exchanger full.

I have since run the car up to temp didn’t take long for the coolant to get to 185 to 207F  on the gauge with the fan kicking in and out.

took ages (over20 mins) for the oil to get to 140/160F in the sump. And the heat exchanger unit. At +2000 rpm in the garage.

next step is connecting up the coolant from the car heater plumbing. Yellow and blue arrows

 

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Good point!

5 bar in a 1/2" hose pushes the hose off the pipe with about 6 kg.

This should be no problem, on the top rad hose 1 bar pulls with about 10 kg.

But if the hose slides off he has got a real problem!

He could make the end of tube (3-5 mm) wider or to solder a ring on it.

Ciao, Marco

Edited by Z320
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Tried the solder. I can’t make it work on Ali  

 

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