Nobbysr Posted May 15, 2021 Report Share Posted May 15, 2021 Hi everyone i have invested in an M35TR Oil seal The seal doesn't appear a split spring which is odd but my main question is related to fitting using the mandril should the main bearing housing be nipped up tight before the seal cap bolts are tightened or should the bolts be torqued down to running torque setting All the best Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted May 15, 2021 Report Share Posted May 15, 2021 https://www.bastuck.de/files/bastuck/uploads/2017/08/10_m35tr_eng.pdf These should help Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nobbysr Posted May 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2021 That's Great Ian many thanks for your help One good turn deserves another, a trick i discovered a while back when shifting roll pins, is to set an automatic centre punch to as harder setting as possible and operate on the centre of the roll pin.. it gets the pin moving with out damaging the pin , it can the be finished with a drift .. used today on the Rocker end pins all the best Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 15, 2021 Report Share Posted May 15, 2021 Odd it does not mention the split steel spring which fits inside the viton seal. I bought just the viton seal (& spring) from the TR shop, & It was made by Bastuk, but I followed the Christian Marx instructions: Mad Marx splitseal.pdf Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 15, 2021 Report Share Posted May 15, 2021 Latest one I used had a split spring that joined by screwing one end of the spring into the other. Previous springs had hooks at each end. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nobbysr Posted May 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2021 certainly would have expected to have a spring to exert even load on the lip of the seal to the crank. So just received a seal from the TR shop, with spring but there is no link in the spring. I would have thought trying to stretch the steel spring to the size of the end of the crank would have exceeded the elastic limits of the spring , has anyone had experience with the one piece spring??? All the best Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted May 21, 2021 Report Share Posted May 21, 2021 Surely there must be a join in the spring. If not how would it be made? The join might be difficult to find without a bit of magnification and maybe a slight stretch to reveal it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nobbysr Posted May 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2021 Good point Andrew, will check again . I am also assuming that the back of the seal faces the sump ? It would help if the instructions contained this information cheers Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted May 21, 2021 Report Share Posted May 21, 2021 Steve, The instructions do, review the selection of photos which accompany the published Christian Marx instructions earlier in this thread. It shows the “open” side of the seal facing inwards away from the back of crank, you need that space to fiddle the springs in afterwards. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 21, 2021 Report Share Posted May 21, 2021 I answered this one a while ago ! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nobbysr Posted May 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2021 26 minutes ago, Motorsport Mickey said: Steve, The instructions do, review the selection of photos which accompany the published Christian Marx instructions earlier in this thread. It shows the “open” side of the seal facing inwards away from the back of crank, you need that space to fiddle the springs in afterwards. Mick Richards I had tried twisting the spring to unlock it but no joy i think the issue was the quality of the joint, which was very good . I loaded the spring slightly and after much twisting it came apart so many thanks Mick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nobbysr Posted May 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2021 Many thanks to all, for your assistance regards Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 21, 2021 Report Share Posted May 21, 2021 4 hours ago, Drewmotty said: Surely there must be a join in the spring. If not how would it be made? Mobius strip !!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted May 21, 2021 Report Share Posted May 21, 2021 7 minutes ago, RogerH said: Mobius strip !!! Wasn’t she in “Debbie Does Dallas”. ? Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted May 21, 2021 Report Share Posted May 21, 2021 Did you use any sealant to join the split edges of the seal? The Bastuk instructions are a bit unclear on whether this just applies to the housing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted May 21, 2021 Report Share Posted May 21, 2021 I used super glue. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 21, 2021 Report Share Posted May 21, 2021 I used a tiny amount of silicone as stated in the Marx instructions. (& he invented it) Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NCS_TR3A Posted May 22, 2021 Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 (edited) On 5/20/2021 at 11:19 PM, Nobbysr said: certainly would have expected to have a spring to exert even load on the lip of the seal to the crank. So just received a seal from the TR shop, with spring but there is no link in the spring. I would have thought trying to stretch the steel spring to the size of the end of the crank would have exceeded the elastic limits of the spring , has anyone had experience with the one piece spring??? All the best Steve Just done this using the one from TR shop. It had instructions with it and I followed them. Yes I was worried about exceeding the elastic limit but it didn't. You put the spring over the end first on its own, then put the seal around and then manipulate the spring back into the seal. I now have a TR3A that doesn't leak from anywhere. Really happy I took the plunge to take the job(s). All down to reading Bob's engine rebuild (which is beyond my limits but got me thinking about tackling all the leaks) Neil Edited May 22, 2021 by NCS_TR3A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NCS_TR3A Posted May 22, 2021 Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 14 hours ago, Lebro said: I used a tiny amount of silicone as stated in the Marx instructions. (& he invented it) Bob Me too, and put the join at the top on the crank for obvious reasons. Neil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nobbysr Posted May 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2021 I went back to the seal and the join in the spring was hard to find, but consisted of a taper so that one end twists into the coils of the other end. I secured the seal in housing with spot of silicone sealer about 20mm apart around the circumference. The first seal i purchased on Ebay didn't have a lip that secured the spring The TR shop version held the spring securely so it was easy to fit with a couple of thin electrical screw divers.. bottom end and pistons done now just need to fit a new cam and setv the valve timing Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 29, 2021 Report Share Posted May 29, 2021 Posted May 20 If you look closer you will see a join. One end tapers down, & when twisted will unscrew from the other end. Do the reverse to reconnect once over the crank Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 29, 2021 Report Share Posted May 29, 2021 Don't rush the valve timing once set & all back in the car it's a lot of work to correct it ! What cam (& followers) are you using ? Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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