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Hi my handsome friends,

I am using the overdrive switch as a dip switch, (moved the overdrive  switch on to the gearstick)  through a relay, it works, but the relay stays warm even when the lights are of 

All the lights are on relays, can I use the overdrive switch direct as the voltage/amps will be low ?  (I think)

Or do I use a latching relay,  or a flip flop, (don't no much about them )

Or is there some other easy way 

have looked this up on the forum,

Thank you,

Pink 

 

 

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The overdrive switch would normally be only on or off, unless you have added another wire. Where are you supplying the power for your "dip switch" relay from ?

you should use the headlight circuit (from the lighting switch) in which case the relay will have no power if the lights are off.

Bob.

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It all depends how you have it all wired Pink, can you give us a diagram?  If the dip relay coil is powered all the time it may get slightly warm even though no current is flowing through the contacts. The dip (ex-overdrive) switch is a 'make' type only - not changeover - so you can't use that the drive the headlight relays direct as you need to switch power to one or the other. 

The dip switch needs to operate a change-over relay to get that function. 

 

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Very good. I worried for a while why you needed the LH diode, then the penny dropped, it's to prevent the ignition circuit being energised with main beam if you happened to flash !

Bob.

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Thank you for the reply's gentleman,

Very impressed with the drawing Tony very impressive, going to have a go at that one 

Presently 

The set up is  86 switch

85 earth

87 to dip

87a to main 

30 live feed to switch

87a is on rest I believe it is being fed by flash 

gets warm belive it is being fed by flash on light switch 

Thank you for replying

Pink

 

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Yes, but not with TT's circuit unless you change a few things like the headlamp flash arrangement. You can't do that with a latching relay.  Also the standard O/D switch won't work properly with it - it needs a 'momentary' switch like a push-button,  not one that stays closed when operated. 

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You can use a latching  relay and use the existing headlamp flash but bear in mind that the current supply of latching relays require the latching to be done by making an earth connection (-12v) so you will need to use a regular relay to make the earth connection to trigger the latching relay.

Apparently the latching relay's internal wiring has been changed so the old way of wiring them as per the TRAction article of a few years back no longer works without blowing the latching relay. (It used the headlamp flash to latch the relay) Still need the diode if you want the headlamp stalk to provide headlight flash as well as dip/main.

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I used a VW Beetle ( old style ) headlamp relay in place of the foot dip switch wiring you will need to disconnect the existing blue?white flasher wire from the flasher switch and earth it. I have described this before, it works well and gives headlamp dip and alternately main beam when lights are on and flash only when lights are off.

If you need further help please let me know.

Richard..

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15 hours ago, pinky said:

I have previously used a latching relay, but I don't like them. They are expensive for a relatively simple function, and have a complicated internal design, so if it fails, the replacement cost is also high. Standard relays are low cost, and I generally have a few hanging around so I can carry them in my spares.

Using two standard relays and a few diodes achieves the same result at relatively low cost. (I have literally hundreds of 1N4007 diodes, so always using them for something).

Lebro - Yes, you are right, they are steering diodes, so that current doesn't go where it shouldn't

TT

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Hi Mike, I use an app called Graphic on a desktop Apple Mac. It is a low cost graphics package, but does most of what I need, and I have used it for more than 10 years.
If I was using a PC, I would seriously consider Xara. I used it a lot when I was working on a PC, it has some features that I don't have with Graphic.

TT

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