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Refitting Cylinder Head Prep


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hi all

My Pete Burgess head arrived!

So prep time before fitting.  I have a few Q&As I'd like confirming.

1.  The holes the studs go into, how can I clean them out - cotton buds??  should I also retap them and if so, size of thread?

2.  I have a good set of gaskets, PO had a rock hard seal which I struggle to get off but its almost off and block is very smooth.  Is all gasket seal the same?

3.  The three studs for the cylinder head cover, I cant get the nuts off, do they come off?

4.  Studs, I am going to re-use, cost of a complete new set, plus Brexit tax etc I cant afford it, but is this a must?  They look ´'okay'

5.  I am going to use a copper grease when studs go into

Ant other advise is much appreciated,

Richard

 

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1 hour ago, AarhusTr6 said:

hi all

My Pete Burgess head arrived!

So prep time before fitting.  I have a few Q&As I'd like confirming.

1.  The holes the studs go into, how can I clean them out - cotton buds??  should I also retap them and if so, size of thread?

2.  I have a good set of gaskets, PO had a rock hard seal which I struggle to get off but its almost off and block is very smooth.  Is all gasket seal the same?

3.  The three studs for the cylinder head cover, I cant get the nuts off, do they come off?

4.  Studs, I am going to re-use, cost of a complete new set, plus Brexit tax etc I cant afford it, but is this a must?  They look ´'okay'

5.  I am going to use a copper grease when studs go into

Ant other advise is much appreciated,

Richard

 

1) Which studs in what ?
Expecting a full description on every fitment of head and engine is a bit much.

2) No - gasket seal should remain soft and preferably sticky, rock hard isn’t what I expect. I use Wellseal.

3) I don’t have a 6 cylinder, are you thinking these are bolts ? What does the Workshop manual say ?

4) Cylinder head studs should be cleaned ( I wash in thinners) and check the shape of the threads ( if any are “necked” bin them) if otherwise ok run a scriber down the thread profiles ( do I have to say both sides ?) checking for “galling”, thread picking up or damaged. If found bin them. Triumph OE equipment is pretty good quality and unless abused ( as described above) can be reused safely.

5) Triumph torque figments are all “dry” if you use copper slip or ANY lubricant on threads it will screw up any torque figures given. Or are you meaning the shanks but didn’t say so ?

Mick Richards

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The Payen head gasket has a heat-activated varnish that does the sealing,no gasket goo required. I use acetone to clean mating surfaces of oil and grease. No re-torqeing, although I check after a short run or two. Peter

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1 hour ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

1) Which studs in what ?
Expecting a full description on every fitment of head and engine is a bit much.

2) No - gasket seal should remain soft and preferably sticky, rock hard isn’t what I expect. I use Wellseal.

3) I don’t have a 6 cylinder, are you thinking these are bolts ? What does the Workshop manual say ?

4) Cylinder head studs should be cleaned ( I wash in thinners) and check the shape of the threads ( if any are “necked” bin them) if otherwise ok run a scriber down the thread profiles ( do I have to say both sides ?) checking for “galling”, thread picking up or damaged. If found bin them. Triumph OE equipment is pretty good quality and unless abused ( as described above) can be reused safely.

5) Triumph torque figments are all “dry” if you use copper slip or ANY lubricant on threads it will screw up any torque figures given. Or are you meaning the shanks but didn’t say so ?

Mick Richards

Hi

Sorry for the over expectations, its mainly on the studs, ie the 14 long ones that hold the cylinder head on, thats my main focus here and any pre-cleaning

Richard

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46 minutes ago, AarhusTr6 said:

Hi

Sorry for the over expectations, its mainly on the studs, ie the 14 long ones that hold the cylinder head on, thats my main focus here and any pre-cleaning

Richard

No problem, in which case items 2/4/5 apply does that answer your query ?

Mick Richards

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Hi Richard,

I reused all studs that were good, also for manifolds.

I used silicone sealant, but only on the left side where they are prone to leakage, on the small ridge.
I also checked each stud with a new nut for  stiff points.
I cleaned out the block threads with a tap, just to get rid of collected deposits. Forget what size, but nothing special.

Copper grease is fine, also on the exhaust studs and nuts.

Waldi

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On 4/25/2021 at 10:56 PM, Waldi said:

Hi Richard,

I reused all studs that were good, also for manifolds.

I used silicone sealant, but only on the left side where they are prone to leakage, on the small ridge.
I also checked each stud with a new nut for  stiff points.
I cleaned out the block threads with a tap, just to get rid of collected deposits. Forget what size, but nothing special.

Copper grease is fine, also on the exhaust studs and nuts.

Waldi

Hi Waldi, can I ask, what do you mean on this bit below:

 

 left side where they are prone to leakage, on the small ridge.

 

Richard

 

 

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Hi Richard, 

the left side of the block (ignition side) has less clamping force on the outer edge, and this often results in weeping of oil to the outside. I would not have thought about this myself during my rebuild but luckily this was discussed on this forum a couple of times.  

Cheers,
Waldi

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Your’e welcome Richard and yes, long live the King.

I’ve had oldtimers for 40 years now but most TR-specific knowledge I gained from this forum.

Waldi

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Posted (edited)
17 hours ago, John L said:

Did you remember to check the TDC mark on the front pulley while the head was off?

John

Hi John

Was 'thinking' about it, but am not 1000% sure on what I am to do . . . . any reminders ;-)  Was thinking on just ensuring timing mark was aligned when piston No1 was up, is that about right?

 

Richard

 

Edited by AarhusTr6
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2 hours ago, AarhusTr6 said:

Hi John

Was 'thinking' about it, but am not 1000% sure on what I am to do . . . . any reminders ;-)  Was thinking on just ensuring timing mark was aligned when piston No1 was up, is that about right?

 

Richard

 

Up on compression stroke!

Tim

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#1 piston on TDC preferably using a dial gauge, fit the crank pulley and see if the TDC mark lines up with the TDC pointer on the timing cover.

The crank pully has a rubber insert inside it, and can move over time, while the head is off good time to check, more difficult with the head back on.

John

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