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Hoping to take the 5 out for it’s first proper road trip for over 40 years and so need to do final tighten on front wishbones/trunnions etc. When I did my 3a I remember tightening the castellated nuts up and then backing off a flat or so and inserting the split pin. Haynes manual confirms this as does a friend but blue version of the brown book says torque it to 50 to 65 lbs.

Which is correct?
Thanks 

Tim

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31 minutes ago, roy53 said:

Hope you don't meen the wheel bearing ?

Definitely not.

Tim

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52 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Hi Tim,

wouldn't the range 50 - 65 lbs.ft allow the hole to align.

 

Roger

Haven’t tried yet Roger. Just thought that 50-65 was quite tight. Interested why Haynes just said ‘until secure’ and the book gave a figure.

Thanks anyway

Tim

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TR2/3/4 front suspension trunion to outer lower wishbone arrangement is completely different TR4A/250/5/6

Torquing the nut and bolt that holds the wishbones to the trunion on the TR4A/250/5/6 is correct.    
Failure to tighten said nut and bolt and the bolt will rotate in the trunion rather than the steel bushes mounted on the bolt rotating in the top hat shaped nylon bushes pushed in the wishbone outer eye.

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Read somewhere once that the correct procedure  when torquing down to a given , and then needing  to insert a split pin,

use a shim washer under the nut to combine the correct torque and align the hole for the split pin, if needed

John.

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11 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

TR2/3/4 front suspension trunion to outer lower wishbone arrangement is completely different TR4A/250/5/6

Torquing the nut and bolt that holds the wishbones to the trunion on the TR4A/250/5/6 is correct.    
Failure to tighten said nut and bolt and the bolt will rotate in the trunion rather than the steel bushes mounted on the bolt rotating in the top hat shaped nylon bushes pushed in the wishbone outer eye.

Peter W

Correct and make sure that the flats are aligned parallel to the brake disc to stop them wearing a groove in the back of the disc.

Stuart.

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All done and sorted to correct torque settings.

Many thanks

Tim

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  • 1 month later...

Kind of related issue:).

Squeaky front suspension (when driving or bounced when stationary).

I have recently fitted new wishbone bushes ... could it be the shock absorber is just caput?

Thanks

Robert

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Thanks both.

Q1: Did you replace the shocks with standard or adjustable? If adjustable which ones did you go for and did you notice any difference?

Q2: Do you mean dry bushes on the shock absorbers?

Cheers

  

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 Robert - Could also be dry bushes on the wishbones as you say they are new even the poly bush type need their grease. 
but yes also shocker bottom bush. 

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Tim, you were lucky.  Some of the repair kits are incorrectly toleranced and if correctly torqued the joint will lock.  When I checked with the supplier he said everyone just backs the nut off until the the joint is free.  This is not the right answer!
Those bad kits can be rescued with appropriate shims but suppliers generally just carry on as usual.

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Hi Robert,

put your old shock absorbers out, prsss and pull them and you will hear.

I don't like strong shock absorbers and - in my opinion the adjustable Spax and Koni are both to strong even when adjusted low.

So I went back to a pair of old Monroe (B) "Radial Matic R2548", a period spare part.

I got them from a friend as a present (he changed to Spax, and my Spax went in the bin) and they do a lovely job.

Ciao, Marco.

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Thanks everyone.

I have removed the shock absorber and it can be moved in/out fairly easily. It looks "OK" ... if a little tired. More importantly though when the car is lowered to the ground (with shocker removed) and bounced on the spring it still squeaks/creaks as before. So .... I am guessing it must be a bush somewhere!

I will grease everything today and see if I can find the source. 

 

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4 minutes ago, rjs993 said:

Thanks everyone.

I have removed the shock absorber and it can be moved in/out fairly easily. It looks "OK" ... if a little tired. More importantly though when the car is lowered to the ground (with shocker removed) and bounced on the spring it still squeaks/creaks as before. So .... I am guessing it must be a bush somewhere!

I will grease everything today and see if I can find the source. 

 

PTFE Spray is good for that. It could also be spring insulators worn through BTW.

Stuart.

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Related topic!

I discovered while stripping the suspension that the upper ball joint rubber gaiter is missing the retaining clip (so grease leaks everywhere).  I have since learned that these are unavailable (according to Rimmer, Revington and Moss). Has anyone come up with a clever solution for this?

Apparently "lock wire" can be used but this is new to me.

Thanks

 

 

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5 minutes ago, rjs993 said:

Related topic!

I discovered while stripping the suspension that the upper ball joint rubber gaiter is missing the retaining clip (so grease leaks everywhere).  I have since learned that these are unavailable (according to Rimmer, Revington and Moss). Has anyone come up with a clever solution for this?

Apparently "lock wire" can be used but this is new to me.

Thanks

 

 

A couple of ball joints on Ebay look as if they have a plastic tie holding them together.

 

Roger

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16 hours ago, rjs993 said:

Related topic!

I discovered while stripping the suspension that the upper ball joint rubber gaiter is missing the retaining clip (so grease leaks everywhere).  I have since learned that these are unavailable (according to Rimmer, Revington and Moss). Has anyone come up with a clever solution for this?

Apparently "lock wire" can be used but this is new to me.

Thanks

 

 

Lock wire would work .

Stuart.

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28 minutes ago, stuart said:

Lock wire would work .

Stuart.

Also a thin lock tie works well as long as it will fit snugly behind the ball joint lip, it’s standard supply on many newer fits.

Mick Richards

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On 6/10/2021 at 8:53 PM, Hamish said:

 Robert - Could also be dry bushes on the wishbones as you say they are new even the poly bush type need their grease. 
but yes also shocker bottom bush. 

Official Polybush instructions say "Use only soapy water or tyre soap to insert Polybushes. " as this allows the bush to dry out.

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Ok. Yes follow the suppliers instructions then.

mine came with a little foil sachet of like silicon grease

 

 

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I think I will just fit new  upper ball joints as I don't know how old the current ones are and the new ones come with gaiters fitted.

Another question: What are the views on whether tball joints with or without grease nipples are the best?

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