Rod1883 Posted April 19, 2021 Report Share Posted April 19, 2021 Took the TR2 out for a ~20 mile run yesterday afternoon. Thought I could smell petrol every now and again and upon getting home found it pouring out of the float chamber overflow on the rear carb. I took the lid off and found the needle valve had jammed fully open. Of course lifting the lid off allows the needle to drop, but I believe this was the cause of the overflow. It lifted OK by hand, but I think that on full travel in the open position it jams sufficiently for the float not to be able to lift it. I reassembled holding the needle up with a thin screwdriver as I did it and all seems fine, but I'm wondering if there might be the risk of it jamming again. Could it be due to wear in the needle valve allowing it to jam or drop too far? Any thoughts or advice gratefully received, as ever. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 19, 2021 Report Share Posted April 19, 2021 Replace the needle valve if its suspect. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rod1883 Posted April 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2021 Thanks Stuart. The Moss and Rimmer part number for the needle valve and seat kit is WZX1101a, but it seems to be out of stock with those suppliers. I've found the same part number listed for the early MG Midget and other cars, and in stock at suppliers for those cars. I assume it is the same item? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 19, 2021 Report Share Posted April 19, 2021 Try Burlen fuel systems http://sucarb.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=needle+valves Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rod1883 Posted April 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2021 (edited) Thanks again. I looked on their site earlier and couldn't find the "Moss" part number. I suspect it is VZX1101 on the Burlen site - http://sucarb.co.uk/float-chambers-spares/needle-valve-kits/standard-needle-valves.html Listed as 0.096" ...but they are also out of stock. I've sent them an enquiry to check Rod Edited April 19, 2021 by Rod1883 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 19, 2021 Report Share Posted April 19, 2021 Rod you could try Southern Carburettors as well http://www.southerncarbs.co.uk/page_1822386.html Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rod1883 Posted April 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2021 (edited) Thanks again Stuart. I'd forgotten about Southern Carbs - they're just up the road from here too.... Edited April 19, 2021 by Rod1883 Correcting Crabs to Carbs! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel C Posted April 19, 2021 Report Share Posted April 19, 2021 if your float is still the brass type just check it still floats (sounds daft I know) as solder is be eaten by ethanol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rod1883 Posted April 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2021 Thanks Nigel. Yes, the floats are the old ones, and they float. I always use Millers VSPe plus ethanol treatment and fill up at our local Power fuels filling station which sells zero ethanol unleaded whenever I can so hopefully they will continue to last.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RUBY131 Posted April 22, 2021 Report Share Posted April 22, 2021 It must be catching, mine did the same yesterday. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RUBY131 Posted April 23, 2021 Report Share Posted April 23, 2021 It must be catching, mine did the same yesterday. On 4/19/2021 at 2:35 PM, stuart said: Rod you could try Southern Carburettors as well http://www.southerncarbs.co.uk/page_1822386.html Stuart. Thanks for the Southern carbs info. Arrived overnight , cheers Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rod1883 Posted April 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2021 (edited) I popped over to Southern Carburetters at Crawley on Thursday and picked up new needle valves and seats, plus float chamber lid gaskets and new fibre washers for the connecting banjo's. Very impressed with the set up and knowledge there. All fitted , but due to our drive being dug up mid replacement I haven't yet been able to road test. Whilst I was at Southern Carburettors I had a chat with Roy there who was very helpful and I picked up new mixture needle adjusting screws with incorporated o-ring and new star washers (plus new diaphragms) for the leaking air valve damper tubes on the Stag (see my post in General technical) Edited April 26, 2021 by Rod1883 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted April 27, 2021 Report Share Posted April 27, 2021 A similar problem I am having with the carbs flooding after a week or so standing idle. I have fitted the Grosse jets and everything is fine in normal use, but after a week or so of not being started the back carb invariably starts flooding from the overflow and can only be stopped by removing the float lid and re fitting it. I suspect that the fuel left in the float bowl is evaporating away allowing the float to drop right down, and then when the engine starts again, which usually takes a bit of cranking to get the fuel through, the jet fork must be preventing the float coming back up, hence thje flooding. Taking the top off allows the float to pop up and then all is OK again till next time. The floats are brass and do float OK. Anyone else had a similar problem? Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 27, 2021 Report Share Posted April 27, 2021 2 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said: A similar problem I am having with the carbs flooding after a week or so standing idle. I have fitted the Grosse jets and everything is fine in normal use, but after a week or so of not being started the back carb invariably starts flooding from the overflow and can only be stopped by removing the float lid and re fitting it. I suspect that the fuel left in the float bowl is evaporating away allowing the float to drop right down, and then when the engine starts again, which usually takes a bit of cranking to get the fuel through, the jet fork must be preventing the float coming back up, hence thje flooding. Taking the top off allows the float to pop up and then all is OK again till next time. The floats are brass and do float OK. Anyone else had a similar problem? Ralph TBH I would replace the Grose valves and fit the normal valves as they dont suffer tis problem, also if the car isnt started for a fair time then its always better to use the priming lever on the pump to fill the float chambers. Stuart,. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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