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A very nasty engine noise


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700 odd miles ago I rebuilt the 2 litre engine in my TR7, all was running well, until recently when depressing the clutch pedal a horrible shrieking noise came from the engine area.  My initial thoughts were the clutch release bearing had failed and was about to collapse as the gear change became very sticky.

So,  clutch changed last week and with the gearbox removed I detected considerable end float in the crank, there was a noticeable bump as I moved the flywheel forwards and backwards.

This tells me I have a problem with the trust washers.  I thought did I put them in the wrong way round, and if so why did the engine not fail within a few miles of the rebuild?

If I use an engine support and drop the subframe,  the sump and centre main bearing cap can be removed  and see what the trust washers are like.  The question is would replacing the trust washers get me out of jail or is it engine out and replace the crankshaft and or block?

I imagine it comes down to which surfaces have been touching?

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Any number of permutations, ...no need to guess “ what ifs”, drop the subframe and sump and give it a Mk 1 eyeball to ascertain what’s going on. Take it from there.

Mick Richards

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  • 1 month later...
On 4/11/2021 at 12:50 PM, Slantfour said:

700 odd miles ago I rebuilt the 2 litre engine in my TR7, all was running well, until recently when depressing the clutch pedal a horrible shrieking noise came from the engine area.  My initial thoughts were the clutch release bearing had failed and was about to collapse as the gear change became very sticky.

So,  clutch changed last week and with the gearbox removed I detected considerable end float in the crank, there was a noticeable bump as I moved the flywheel forwards and backwards.

This tells me I have a problem with the trust washers.  I thought did I put them in the wrong way round, and if so why did the engine not fail within a few miles of the rebuild?

If I use an engine support and drop the subframe,  the sump and centre main bearing cap can be removed  and see what the trust washers are like.  The question is would replacing the trust washers get me out of jail or is it engine out and replace the crankshaft and or block?

I imagine it comes down to which surfaces have been touching?

Couple of usual mistakes that folks make with thrust washers when they do an engine is to use the wrong size ones or to put them in the wrong way round.  Measure the end float when you fit new bearings and fit oversize ones if necessary.  The white bearing surface metal should be against the crankshaft surface.

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  • 1 month later...

It was not a pretty sight, crank and block severely worn where the trusts should have been.  They were badly damaged and lying in the sump pan.  So I bought a core engine and took both to Ward in Rugby.  Richard who owns the business said it was possible to repair the original engine, but would require lots of machining plus a replacement crank.  The more economical solution was the refurbish the replacement block and crank.  As my car was sitting on my friendly main dealers ramp, the latter option was chosen.  Used King bearing shells, not certain how different they are from County, but no AE ones available.  All back together and intend to visit the Concours d'Ordinaire in late July.

The Ward machine shop in Rugby has a wide range of machines and they can make white metal bearings where required.  Cost was sensible as well!

To inspect the trust bearings , I removed the sump with the car on a two post ramp, holding the engine up with an engine support beam usually used for FWD cars. Subframe was lowered on a suitably placed transmission jack

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