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TR4 Clutch Compatibility


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Hi

My 1963 TR4 was fitted with what I believe is a TR4A Laycock clutch (diaphragm pressure plate). The fingers on the pressure plate are worn from the bearing and release bearing carrier has a chip out of the groove where the release fork runs. So I'm thinking of renewing the whole lot.

Can I simply change back to the TR4 clutch parts? Or is it even worth it?

Thanks

Paul

 

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9 minutes ago, gloide69 said:

Hi

My 1963 TR4 was fitted with what I believe is a TR4A Laycock clutch (diaphragm pressure plate). The fingers on the pressure plate are worn from the bearing and release bearing carrier has a chip out of the groove where the release fork runs. So I'm thinking of renewing the whole lot.

Can I simply change back to the TR4 clutch parts? Or is it even worth it?

Thanks

Paul

 

Depends on the flywheel for one, if its a TR4 one thats been re-drilled then yes but you would need carrier/bearing and nose piece to go with, if its a 4a one then no not without re-drilling as the cover plate holes are in a different place. TBH  I would stick with the later diaphragm one.

Stuart.

Edited by stuart
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Thanks Stuart, I think you have convinced me to stick with it.

For my piece of mind, I'd like to check that my gearbox nose piece is OK for this setup, it's the same as the one on the right in the image below, the machined surface is approx. 2 1/4 long.

(pic copied from the TR6 forum thread) 

Thanks

Paul

image.png

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11 hours ago, gloide69 said:

Thanks Stuart, I think you have convinced me to stick with it.

For my piece of mind, I'd like to check that my gearbox nose piece is OK for this setup, it's the same as the one on the right in the image below, the machined surface is approx. 2 1/4 long.

(pic copied from the TR6 forum thread) 

Thanks

Paul

 

In that case you do need to change it for the shorter type which is for a diaphragm clutch along with a new double lip seal and gasket, when replacing it dont forget that the bolts should have copper washers under them.

Stuart.

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Hi Paul,

when you replace the 'nose piece' and fit the new seal be careful how deep you press the seal into the counterbore.

On mine, that I fitted about 5 years ago, the counterbore was about 3mm too deep and this allowed the seal lip to sit in fresh air.

Measure the seal lip and the contact surface positions.

Also, the TR4A set up has a self adjusting slave unit. So the bearing will always be on or very near the diaphragm fingers - hence the wear.

The TR4 set up used a spring to pull back the bearing so it was always clear of the fingers when not in use.

Many folk retain the spring for the 4A.

 

Roger

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