Fitting alloy sump

[Hamish]

Today I finished fitting my eBay bargain alloy sump. 
it’s been tested and doesn’t leak. And I know it sits lower than the original sump but not by a lot and I’ll be careful and try not to bash it. I painted it black and took the fin/ribs back to Ali. 

also a big thanks to Mike B of Brenda fame for the sump gasket.

when I removed the old sump I thought that something was missing ?

and yes it was the gauze on the oil pick up pipe !! Found rolling around in the sump !

some judicious and excessive soldering sorted that one.  
 

a jack helped me lift and hold the sump in place whilst I got the 19 bolts in place. 16 to 18ft/lb I have a small torque wrench and set to 20nm.
 

I also fitted the mechanical oil temp sender in the side boss of the sump. And my diy magnetic sump plug.

I didn’t empty the oil cooler or filter ( only done in June) and have added about of 7litres of fresh oil ( despite the June oil change)

I have cranked the engine and the pressure comes up nicely. 
I need to start it and run it up to temp soon. 

A good Easter job done.

[Lebro]

Good job Hamish, that colour scheme looks good.

Bob

[iain]

Nice job H

Ooh that looks low, good job your on smooth tracks most of the time.

Iain

[BRENDA1]

Good job H that looks a little low, mind the humps just past our house, you could always fit on of theses to the underside of you car.

Mike Redrose Group 

[NCS_TR3A]

Looks good, Great idea taking the ribs back to alloy. 

Neil

[ntc]

And the gains? Not a lot as I have seen 

[Hamish]

2 minutes ago, ntc said:

And the gains? Not a lot as I have seen 

Neil

ab-sol-utely none.

It’s bling in a lock down world where too much time on eBay started another project.

with a side benefit that I found the oil pump intake gauze had come off but now repaired- unintended consequences I suppose.

28 minutes ago, BRENDA1 said:

Good job H that looks a little low, mind the humps just past our house, you could always fit on of theses to the underside of you car.

Mike Redrose Group 

Mike don’t get me started on an under tray !! It would have to start behind the engine to let the heat out - along with my bonnet louvres !!  How thick 3mm ?

I would have to incorporate rear diffusers for ground effect.

[Z320]

Hamish,

RESPECT for this honest answer!

For me there is one benefit:

on a proper casting (is this the case?) you can't bend the flange by tightening the bolts,

this is sadly the issue with the tin sheet metal oil sump.

Ciao, Marco

[Hamish]

12 minutes ago, Z320 said:

Hamish,

RESPECT for this honest answer!

For me there is one benefit:

on a proper casting (is this the case?) you can't bend the flange by tightening the bolts,

this is sadly the issue with the tin sheet metal oil sump.

Ciao, Marco

Marco

its a good and thick flange so no bending by bolting up tight. It also has a good flat machined surface.

so thank you for helping to justify my folly - I’ll tell my wife what you said 

[ntc]

32 minutes ago, Hamish said:

Neil

ab-sol-utely none.

It’s bling in a lock down world where too much time on eBay started another project.

with a side benefit that I found the oil pump intake gauze had come off but now repaired- unintended consequences I suppose.

Mike don’t get me started on an under tray !! It would have to start behind the engine to let the heat out - along with my bonnet louvres !!  How thick 3mm ?

I would have to incorporate rear diffusers for ground effect.

I understand you H but in my years of motorsport I will take a dent instead of a crack learned that went dry sump 

[Hamish]

I get that, I really do and appreciate your concern.  I hope I don’t have to find out. 
 

 

[roy53]

Will be appreciated by those you run over 

[Ralph Whitaker]

What is the intended purpose, was it to hold more oil, or to dissipate heat, or both.  

Ralph

[Hamish]

40 minutes ago, roy53 said:

Will be appreciated by those you run over 

Hey if they get past the rad guard/anti roll bar yet get caught by the sump - then that rabbit wasn’t quick enough 

 

28 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

What is the intended purpose, was it to hold more oil, or to dissipate heat, or both.  

Ralph

probably both Ralph. Not sure the factory ever used them on 2, 3 or 4’s even in competition 

and alloy sumps were the norm in the vintage era so hardly new technologies 

[ianc]

The Works' TR4 Rally cars always used the standard steel sump because, as Graham says, the steel will bend if it hits something hard, whereas alloy is likely to crack or shatter, and thereby lose all the oil.

For the really rough Rallies (Liège and RAC), a shield was fitted beneath engine, gearbox and overdrive (in addition to the usual skid plate), hence the need for the wing vents to permit hot air to escape from the engine compartment.

Ian Cornish

[Hamish]

On 4/3/2021 at 9:34 PM, BRENDA1 said:

Good job H that looks a little low, mind the humps just past our house

Mike Redrose Group 

 

Tested the clearance on mike’s roads speed bumps and it’s all good. The car is so narrow that it rises a little even when I tried to straddle the speed bumps. 
 

I’ll just have to not straddle narrower obstacles like random high manhole covers (person hole) and road debris.

[PhilipB]

Tip for fitting the sump, tin or alloy.

4 x 50mm lengths of studding with screwdriver slot in one end

screw into holes, 2 each side of the block

Offer the sump up over the studding and spin some nuts on. The studding acts as dowels for locating the sump and the nuts hold the sump up. Easier than using a jack to hold it up and everything stays lined up

Fit the other bolts then remove the studding and fit those bolts

. . . but then you shouldn't need to take it off again !

Cheers

 

Phil