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Ignition Key Barrel


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Hi Phil

Spray it in situ with WD40 or failing that remove and do the same before condemning it.

Andy 

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If you do that to free it off  (proper releasing fluid would probably be better than WD40) then take the barrel out once it is free, clean off all of the oily residue with meths and lubricate it when dry with graphite powder. It is not a good idea to use oil on any lock -  it just forms sticky goop which attracts dust and eventually causes it to stick again. 

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26 minutes ago, RobH said:

If you do that to free it off  (proper releasing fluid would probably be better than WD40) then take the barrel out once it is free, clean off all of the oily residue with meths and lubricate it when dry with graphite powder. It is not a good idea to use oil on any lock -  it just forms sticky goop which attracts dust and eventually causes it to stick again. 

Just learnt something never thought of graphite powder!

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11 hours ago, RobH said:

If you do that to free it off  (proper releasing fluid would probably be better than WD40) then take the barrel out once it is free, clean off all of the oily residue with meths and lubricate it when dry with graphite powder. It is not a good idea to use oil on any lock -  it just forms sticky goop which attracts dust and eventually causes it to stick again. 

+1 or PTFE: 3 in one Dry Lubricant from Halfords. Marketed by WD40 here in the UK!

Bruce.

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I've just been having a search around and it doesn't look easy.  The consensus seems to be you have to remove the whole lock assembly to get at it which means defeating the shear-bolts that secure the assembly to the column.  I guess if it was easy it wouldn't be much of a security feature. 

It might be better to first try freeing things off in-situ then liberally spray the inside with carb cleaner or similar to remove as much gunge as possible before letting it dry off and apply dry lube.   If that doesn't work then you have no option.....

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16 hours ago, RobH said:

I've just been having a search around and it doesn't look easy.  The consensus seems to be you have to remove the whole lock assembly to get at it which means defeating the shear-bolts that secure the assembly to the column.  I guess if it was easy it wouldn't be much of a security feature. 

It might be better to first try freeing things off in-situ then liberally spray the inside with carb cleaner or similar to remove as much gunge as possible before letting it dry off and apply dry lube.   If that doesn't work then you have no option.....

I had a similar  problem but I could get the key in just. One squirt of 3 in ONE  dry PTFE lub. Problem gone! Been OK for over 2 years!

Bruce.

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

The problems back !

Extremely difficult getting the key into the lock so it looks like a replacement barrel is required or at least removal to allow to clean properly.

Guidance on the removal procedure greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Phil

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I had similar problems - a new ignition switch including barrel and keys is ~£10 and is incredibly easy and quick to change. I wouldn't bother messing around - it will keep failing once worn. Disconnect battery earth, take the side kickboards off, loosen the chrome nut on the fascia and pull it down on the drivers side. Apply Ibuprofen to back and reassemble.

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I had a similar issue a year or so back.

I had to remove the speedo and tach to access the shear bolts. A small cold chisel and hammer was needed to get the shear bolts to unscrew and then there is a bracket towards the base of the steering column that needed to be unbolted so that was seat out and hardtop off so as to get on my back into the footwell to be able to undo these bolts. After that the steering lock and ignition came out quite easily. I am sure there were other things to undo as well but those were the worst of them.

I took the assembly to a lock smith and had them rebuild it which was fairly cheap, about $60US.

Installation was the reverse but not so daunting. I did not use shear bolts for the replacement. I do not think someone trying to steal it will go the bother of undoing bolts.

 

Simon

 

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Another way to deal with shear bolts is to drill them to allow a stud extractor to be used - the bolts then come out quite easily.  I've done it on a more modern vehicle but but I don't know whether there is enough access on a TR.

Some people have used a Dremel to make a screwdriver slot:

https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr6-tech-forum.2/remove-steering-lock-and-ignition-assembly.1767588/

The electrical switch assembly unplugs from the rear of the lock after you either remove a small screw or push on a pin (ER6 here):

https://trf.zeni.net/TR6greenbook/29.php?s_wt=1440&s_ht=900

 

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Did mine a few weeks back. Luckily someone had already swapped out the shear bolts for normal. 

Removing the speedo and tacho is a must. then undo the brace and the upper mount (I could do this without taking the seat out).

You can straight drill out the bolts for the lock if you are careful 

Cheers

Tim

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Thank you all for the guidance.

So Speedo and Tacho out and then view best method. Could be lucky like Tim and someone had already replaced the bolts.

What are the thoughts regarding replace or have rebuilt and best source for new locks.

Phil 

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I replaced the whole thing as the switch unit at the back of the assembly was also getting dodgy. 

Tim

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