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Hi all. Can somebody please point me in the right direction for a replacement battery? Ideally someone who can deliver it? Much as I like Rimmer Bros, their supplier was a joke and ended up issuing full credits.

Would appreciate a description of ratings etc. Many thanks, Guy.

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Hello Guy,

Suggest you give Rob a call at TRGB who will offer you a correct rated BOSCH battery for your TR6. They can of course supply you with any replacement support brackets and/or leads should they require replacement at the same time.

Best Regards, Peter

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1 hour ago, Guy Vinall said:

Hi all. Can somebody please point me in the right direction for a replacement battery? Ideally someone who can deliver it? Much as I like Rimmer Bros, their supplier was a joke and ended up issuing full credits.

Would appreciate a description of ratings etc. Many thanks, Guy.

The main thing that you have to be careful of is the orientation of the + & - terminals. As batteries today for your average car have them opposite to the original TR ones. As suggested it is probably best to go to someone like TR GB or even Moss. Keep away from cadmium types!

Bruce.

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I think Bruce probably means Calcium rather than Cadmium, John. 

'Calcium' batteries have a higher fully-charged voltage than a normal lead acid battery and are intended for modern cars with the appropriate electrical systems.  That means you cannot fully charge one with a standard TR alternator or dynamo which will top out probably at 14.4 to 14.7V  whereas a calcium battery needs 14.8V or slightly more to charge properly.  It will work but it will never be fully charged unless you use an appropriate separate battery-charger and you won't get full capacity from it. 

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14 minutes ago, RobH said:

I think Bruce probably means Calcium rather than Cadmium, John. 

'Calcium' batteries have a higher fully-charged voltage than a normal lead acid battery and are intended for modern cars with the appropriate electrical systems.  That means you cannot fully charge one with a standard TR alternator or dynamo which will top out probably at 14.4 to 14.7V  whereas a calcium battery needs 14.8V or slightly more to charge properly.  It will work but it will never be fully charged unless you use an appropriate separate battery-charger and you won't get full capacity from it. 

Sorry you are right, I had a brain storm. You right also about the charging. I found that my 18 ACR could not fully charge it and it was only when I bought a pulse charger could I fully charge it. As my daily driver had the stop facility and used an AGM battery which needs the same type of charger!

Bruce.

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I agree with you DaveN, especially competitive if you sign up for a trade card that last time included electricians and taxi drivers so not really restricted to anyone showing their car mechanic (sorry, motor vehicle technician) qualifications. Plus generally local should you need to return under a warranty claim. I bought the 5 year one for my car.

Regards

Bill 

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4 hours ago, SpitFireSIX said:

if you are worried about the alternator volts being a little low, you can boost the output by adding a diode between feedback & output. 
Added around 0.5 volts to output. Raised the cut in RPM as a bonus.

What rating diode did you use ?

Thanks

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Be aware that doing that on a machine-sensing Lucas ACR alternator means getting inside it to do the mod. 

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On 4/5/2021 at 3:53 PM, OldBob said:

What rating diode did you use ?

Thanks

Hi,

 Sorry for delay this Forum rejects updates to me.
1N5408 from memory. 3A rating in free air & much higher when fitted due to air flow.

Cheers,

Iain.

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On 4/5/2021 at 4:06 PM, RobH said:

Be aware that doing that on a machine-sensing Lucas ACR alternator means getting inside it to do the mod. 

I have used the A127 for last 26 years. 32A? ACRs were too small on Output. On the A127the diode is mounted between the AVR Lucar(r) connector without having to open it.
It is a safe jury-rig when volt-sense or conversion to volt sense makes more sense.

Cheers,

Iain.

 

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