Skid-pan

[John Reilly]

Good morning,

I saw this on eBay.

Is this suitable for a TR3A?

I need a new pan as the original is not good.

I also would like an anti-roll bar and need to know if all parts are compatible. Advice welcome.

Thanks

John

[John Reilly]

I should of course have added the eBay link!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-TR2-TR3-TR3A-TR4-Radiator-guard-Shield-Rally-type-1953-1965-301644/202614598208

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

301644 was designed by the factory for rally use.  It should be a direct fit to your chassis.  Moss have redesigned the item for anti roll bar fitment.

See attached pdf.  Page 63 July 1954 is where you find the original drawing this item is based on.

Peter W

1954bul1.pdf

[John Reilly]

Thanks Peter

[Hamish]

I have one of those you need to drill the inner lip of the chassis to take the fitting bolts on the sides and back (1)

these then have the plates sat on the lip with the nuts attached (2)

to ensure these plates remain in the right place i riveted them with heavy duty rivets. I also added holes to the corned (3) for drainage.

it only sits at the front - not under the sump- 

and very visible at the front when fitted so I painted min black and less obvious on my black car

Edited March 29, 2021 by Hamish

[John Reilly]

Thanks Hamish, do you have an anti-roll bar fitted?

John

[Hamish]

Yes it’s a fat 7/8” off a spitfire cobbled together with Alfa drop links and diy wishbone plates ( to be changed to rose joints and a box section on the wishbone) With solid Ali mounting block with anti slide collars ( I had to notch out the rally plate to fit these)

[John Reilly]

Thanks again Hamish.

[iain]

These guards are a replacement for the radiator bottom shield. They were designed more as a device to stop the chassis digging in on rough rally’s, they do not protect the sumps underside, as Hamish says as they only extend to the chassis cross rail between the suspension struts, most of the sump under surface is there still very exposed. On my ex works car the guard is not mounted with the brackets. Instead the bolts are held in position with 1/2 nuts with a spring washer  under the chassis flange, then the shield is held up in position and another 1/2 nut and spring washer on each of the 8 bolts. This makes for much easier removal unless you weld the brackets into place.

Iain

[John Reilly]

Iain,

I will figure out what you mean when I get the shield, thanks

John

 

[PhilipB]

John

Mine is fitted as per Hamish's

+1 for drainage holes, I've drilled them in the front as well

+1 for painting as well, the coating as supplied is not very substantial

I used dome headed socket screws to hold the plate up. These locate in the captive nuts on the fitting plates which clamp the whole assembly to the chassis flange. I used countersunk screws to hold the fitting plates in place.

Standard TR A/R bar fits without having to notch out the plate but did need the fixing holes redrilling lower down line up the end of the A/R bar with the clamp on the wishbone. The A/R bar seems to put a bit of load on the skid plate even though it is rose jointed to the lower wishbone. I've since re-fited but with strong Loctite and seems to be OK now

Phil

[DavidBee]

On 4/7/2021 at 3:01 PM, PhilipB said:

John

Mine is fitted as per Hamish's

+1 for drainage holes, I've drilled them in the front as well

+1 for painting as well, the coating as supplied is not very substantial

I used dome headed socket screws to hold the plate up. These locate in the captive nuts on the fitting plates which clamp the whole assembly to the chassis flange. I used countersunk screws to hold the fitting plates in place.

Standard TR A/R bar fits without having to notch out the plate but did need the fixing holes redrilling lower down line up the end of the A/R bar with the clamp on the wishbone. The A/R bar seems to put a bit of load on the skid plate even though it is rose jointed to the lower wishbone. I've since re-fited but with strong Loctite and seems to be OK now

Phil

Phil, that's interesting. I wonder if you inherited the heavy factory skid shield I fitted during my tenure? Can't remember that well, but I think it was green, not black, when I got it.

[ianc]

The TR4 chassis is basically a TR3A chassis with box extensions fitted at the front to widen the track, and the body mountings extended sideways. so the skid plate will fit all TR2/3/4 models.

The skid plate on my TR4 (4VC) is welded to the chassis and is so strong that I am able to place the trolley jack under it (with its grab removed and a piece of cardboard on its top) so that I can lift the front of the car with the trolley sliding on the Waxoyled plate.  I suspect that my skid plate may be somewhat beefier than the standard offering, having been fitted by the Comps Dept.

My anti-roll bar is a Revington special, mounted onto the skid plate such that it does NOT dangle lower than the chassis rails - I have seen other (probably standard) anti-roll bars which dangle lower and have been damaged by contact with the road or kerb.

I have fitted a tow hook to the skid plate and used it on one occasion when darkness was salling and Maddy towed me home - terrifying because one sits so low in a TR and it is impossible to see over an estate car!

Ian Cornish