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Due to quite a lot of movement in all of them I decided to ream & replace the door pins in all 4 door hinges. This worked very well, Hoorah!!

However on refitting the doors I cannot now get them to close sufficiently. (see photos) 

This applies to both doors

The Door Lock Striker is at it's most inboard position. I have also tried them at the most outboard position in the hope that the toothed wheel on the door may click twice, no dice!!

I have tried adjusting the hinges in the door & A post but can't get it right

Am I missing a trick & if not any suggestions for a door 'guru' in West Sussex

many Thx

Paul

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Hi Paul,

Not the best view, but that door striker looks like it could be rather worn.

The two steel teeth appear to be worn concave on the inside faces and the nylon guide possibly has a groove worn into its upper face.

Can you post a few more photos at a less acute angle.

If the striker is worn it could point to wear being present within its mating part the rotary lock -  the shaft that holds the rotating gear and the stub that rides onto the nylon guide can both come loose as they are only peened in place.

These shafts will wobble if loose, but are better view inside the door in order to see the peened ends.

Regards, Richard

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Hi Paul,

The shape of the two teeth on the nearside striker look better, but I still see too much wear, however the nylon guide looks OK.

Any chance of other photos of the offside.

Each tooth should have a symmetrical and smooth shape on each side and the cog in the rotary also has to be a good shape to work properly. 

Tomorrow I will photograph a good example of a striker for you to compare.

Being in mind that you have had to replace all of the hinge pins I would assume that the doors were sagging so they were closed the rotary lock had to have been lower than the striker, thus the door was having to be pushed upwards to enter the locking position and thus causing wear to occur - just my thoughts.

Regards, Richard 

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Striker is alright. It is counter-intuitive but you may want to slide the sticker outboard + up and down AND turn the door latch gear with your finger one clic at at time as there's room for adjustment there. It's trial and errors until you get it right. It is the position of the gear relative to the teeth of the sticker (red arrow) that matters most

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Edited by Geko
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Make sure that the sliding part in the Door Restraint Device mounted on the B post is free to slide as the striker, mounted on the door, is pushed into it when the door is closed.

The slider can be jammed and needs to be free to slide inwards as the striker hits it, else the door will not be able to close fully, rather as shown in Paul's first photo.

Use WD40 to free a jammed slider and ensure that you can push it inwards easily with the blade of a screwdriver, and that its spring will return it with a snap.

Although I've never found mention of this as a Maintenance item, Tony Sheach and I included it in our Basic Maintenance Guide which was published as a centre pull-out in TR Action 273 (March 2014), and included in the presentation which we delivered at the Malvern IWE in 2014 (video available on-line in the TR Register's website).

The slider needs regular attention!

Ian Cornish

Edit: Corrected TR Action number - should be 273

Edited by ianc
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Ian, I've checked TR Action 274 (May 14) can't see the guide you refer to; was it published separately as a pull-out?

Rgds

David

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According to my notes, 274 was March 2014.  The Guide was stapled into the middle of the magazine as a centrefold.

I cannot check my copy as it is in one of two very large boxes which were packed with Newsletters & TR Actions when we moved here two and a half years ago.

However, if you view the video, at 1 hour and 8 minutes (pretty near the end) you will hear me describe the restraint device and Tony prods the slider with a screwdriver.

I haven't checked the on-line versions of TR Actions to see whether the Guide is in the centre of #274.  I might have a look after lunch.

Ian Cornish

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Hi all. I have discovered, when starting to try to correct door gap issues, that I have a relatively similar problem in that the door does close (two clacks, so the rotary lock is engaging), but it sticks out a bit. As with Paul, I also had a problem with the hinges being worn, so that the round stub in the door side does effectively lift the door when it engages the nilon slider. I am ordering new hinges. Regarding locking, I found it was a matter of trial and error in placing the strike plate,p where in some positions I would only get one clack and the door would not close, and in others it worked. In any case, and as said before, even with the door locked, it still stands out a bit. I guess this is due to teeth in the striker plate being worn (please see pics). Has anyone refurbished these (is there a way?). I ask because Moss does not have the right side one, in many EU suppliers, such as Bastuck, they seem unavailable, and the cost of bringing these to the EU with customs is pretty silly, specially if I order separately the hinges and these. Also, the Moss replacement seems to have plastic teeth, which should be fragile

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Yes - TR Action 273 (not 274).  Silly me.

I have corrected my earlier posting, and it's to be found in the on-line set of TR Actions.

Ian Cornish

 

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Hi Efuentes,

The photos of both your striker brackets shown extremely heavy wear and I think really should be replaced.

Looking at the Moss photos of the new strikers the original shapes of the teeth is what is required, plus I am sure the gear teeth on these are formed in metal.

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Original striker brackets are not viable to have repaired, the cost would be massive.

The nylon buffers could easily be replaced however unfortunately they not available as a separate purchase.

So you may well have to go down the route of second-hand strikers.

I have not had any problems with worn strikers, so I had them re-plated.

By the way it is impossible to see, but each of the six countersunk screws should be fitted with cupped / countersunk locking washers to retain the striker in the require position – often lost and never missed until the striker moves.

Given that both your strikers are so damaged, the mating parts of the rotary lock may well mean that the gear and stud on each rotary lock are also damaged – so worth checking carefully.

The rotary locks had wear and loose pins so I repaired each lock as detailed below – simple work to carryout and it did remove the wear and stabilised each of the shafts.

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I think much of the above could apply to Pauls car and problems.

Regards, Richard

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Hi, Richard. Many thanks. I thought so regarding the striker. I will check the lock when I get back to where my car is, but I think both the bar and the cog assembly were OK. I will see if I can find a reasonably priced source for both the hinges and the strikers. Not a deep second hand market here in Spain, so probably will have to buy new.

Best regards, Enrique

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Another afternoon spent trying to improve the closing of the door without success

Reading Efuentes post he talks about 2 clacks. I can only get one no matter where the striker is positioned 

There does seem to be some slack in the cog on the door, could this be the reason and is there anything that can be done about it

Hers's hoping

Paul

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Hello Paul

Maybe remove door seal rubber and furflex and then try to close the door. With the rubbers removed you can see better from the inside whether door is fitting evenly. Slacken off striker screws a fraction and also hinge adjustment nuts and then with a bit of luck you can push and pull door into some sort of approximate alignment. Then replace door seals and push and pull a bit more and again with a bit of luck it will fit. I have had similar issues in the past and this was the only way I could get a reasonable fit. Don't slacken adjusting screws/nuts too much - just enough so you can 'adjust' door using a bit of force. It might need to be further out a bit more at the hinge side so it can fit further in at the handle side. You can adjust front and rear wings in and out a bit where they meet the door by slackening off the fixing screws but I would leave that until you can get the door to close properly with the seals in place.

Good luck

Keith

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Paul this may not help but as you have no give in the hinges are you door rubbers stopping you from closing the doors correctly, just remove the door rubbers and check the door closes as it should, I had this problem when I put new door seals on last year, in the end I cut a small amount or rubber off on each side at the bottom of the B post.

Mike Redrose Group 

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Hi All

Thx for your input

The door alignment is fine. It will close in an acceptable position

The issue is that the cog/striker plate won't hold it in that position

I'm going to try and get into the rotary lock mechanism and see what I find

Paul

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Update

Finally success

The door seal rubber was preventing the door closing sufficiently for the second 'clack'

By moving the door forward on the hinges it reduced the pressure on the seal & hey presto

Thx to all for their comments

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