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TR6 gearbox refit


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I'd pull the spigot bearing out and replace you can clearly see where the nose is hitting it off centre, remove the fly wheel, clutch cover and see if there is no ovality in any of the in any of the fixings.Then try fitting the box without the clutch components if it goes home the problem lies with the clutch cover/flywheel components/alignment if it won't its within the gearbox.

Why the flywheel bolts are all nicked I'm not sure but its not right wonder if the correct clutch plate has been fitted or the wrong way around?

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Windows 10 upgrade wiped me out last night!

Gearbox was removed to replace with refurbished box and the addition of A type overdrive. Old clutch plate and pressure plate intact with no visual damage. New Borg & Beck clutch plate, pressure plate and bearing being fitted.

On the old gearbox input shaft the spigot end edge is "shiny"; hence why I think that is how the flywheel bolts damaged.

Too late to check if old plate was the correct way round but can say it operated okay when driving. Again checking the old plate can see no damage and inspected floor and no obvious debris.

Probably need to take out existing spigot bearing. Looking about I can see one at 1" long and another at 1/2" long. Since my current bearing only moves approx. 4 mm not sure what replacement to purchase. Are there other variants/how can I select the correct replacement spigot bearing?

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Compare the length of this bit between the old gearbox and the one you are fitting. (Shiny bit the release bearing slides on.)

could be that the thing is too long and is touching the clutch pressure plate perhaps.

They changed in length when the diaphragm clutch was introduced.   Part number did not change though.  TR4A onwards has a diaphragm type clutch pressure plate or clutch cover.

 

image.jpeg.b4c12ed60fa8a4d071c9c3abc05b4079.jpeg

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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add to previous post. Seen that there are two flywheel variants that are matched to the crank (short or long). Any suggestions on how to check for long/short crank and corresponding flywheel?

Okay so if original plate wrong way round caused the damage, should I be looking for something to confirm (trying to figure this out in my head)?

 

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Not sure with regard to the flywheel my plate was marked fly wheel side. This link has some good pics of the plate orientation https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Triumph-TR6-Borg-Beck-Clutch/265093006423?hash=item3db8c64457:g:7aIAAOSwDxdfmWjZ

The pic Shows a long back crank/flywheel. 

 

IMG_1122.jpeg

Edited by PodOne
wrong pic
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Just replaced a gearbox and had a similar problem. The one removed was an original 4 speed the one that replaced it was an overdrive the dowels on the engine cover didn’t match up with the holes on the new gearbox ie top LH side, I removed the dowel and hey presto it slid into place. IMHO check that the doles have holes to go into on the new box and that the 3 studs on the top line up too otherwise you will be there forever. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Gearbox in place and now for final fitment. The reason that the spigot bush had so much float was because 2 * 1/2 inch bushes had been fitted previously. Replacing these with a single 1" bush was perfect. Lesson learnt for me is that the as sold 1/2 inch bush is smaller than 1/2" at 11.2 mm. The 1" is bigger than 1 " at 26.9 mm.

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Has the flywheel been lightened taking material off the gearbox side? I have seen this before due to this. The clutch plate hits the 4 bolts and gradually causes the damage as seen. Initially you get a grouching noise until sufficient material has been removed from the bolts!

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Also, you cannot engage any gears until “sufficient material has been removed”. Ask me how I know. (TR3A gearbox in 1968).

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You can check if the friction plate touches the bolts before you fit the pressure plate.  
Fit the thing on the clutch alignment tool and offer it all up with the tip of the tool in the spigot bush.  

Rotate the friction plate as you press the it against the flywheel.  You will hear and feel if there is bolt impingement.

Peter W

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