TR3 rear lever arm removal

[TPTHURLOW]

Hi, I'm trying to remove the rear lever arms and links.

 

Firstly i assume i need a small ball joint spliter to get the link off?

Secondly i can't get a socket on the nuts that hold the shock on. There just doesn't seem to be enough room between the body of the shock and the nut. Am i missing something!?

Tom

 

[NCS_TR3A]

I had all this off earlier this year but still cannot remember if I used a ball joint splitter. I don't remember using one but I have a few so might have. I think I just undid the nut and prised it out. Removing the damper I do remember. There is a bolt that goes in from the other side. It's the bolt you turn but you need to hold the nut. I think I was able to get an open ended spanner on it from an angle but a box spanner or socket with a 1/4 inch size extention (to give the space past to casing) would do it. It doesn't stick in my mind as being to difficult. 

Neil

[iain]

It’s an open ended spanner job Tom. Very awkward. Although if you remove the carpet on the rear floor side wall one nut should be visible....if the hole in the floor sidewall lines up.....occasionally they do:-).

When all removed, replace the bolt with a HT bolt with HT cap nut, cant remember the size  1”3/4  x 3/8” perhaps, but it makes life so much easier to remove and most importantly be able to apply some serious torque to stop the shockers rattling loose!

Iain

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Is there a plugged hole in the bodywork just inwards of the front shock bolt head?   If so remove it and reach through to the bolt head with a socket.

If no hole your car is either an early TR 2 or a rebuild with repro rear floor.

The rear bolt is accessible from under the car.

Peter W

PS beat me Iain

Edited March 15, 2021 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[TPTHURLOW]

Thanks a lot. No hole, its quite possible it was a early TR2 originally. Guess it going to be a long few hours tomorrow. 

[stuart]

This is why I weld a nut on the rear when doing rebuilds and then use cap screws, makes life a whole lot easier.

Stuart.

[mikej]

If you have access a lathe or a chum that has one, then turn a little off the minor diameter and a bit further up the appropriate socket. Surprisingly, the socket does not seem to have lost any durability and did not need replacing for normal use. I wish I had welded nuts on....

Mike

[TPTHURLOW]

Thanks, I got it done. I did grind down a socket, its now in my growing pile of adapted tools.

Out of interest when did the access hole in the floor appear? My chassis number is a mystery so might provide a clue.

[greasemonkey]

+ 1 for the use of cap head set screws.

Phil

[stuart]

On 3/16/2021 at 9:42 PM, TPTHURLOW said:

Thanks, I got it done. I did grind down a socket, its now in my growing pile of adapted tools.

Out of interest when did the access hole in the floor appear? My chassis number is a mystery so might provide a clue.

Very late on in TR3 production I think.

Stuart.

Edited March 18, 2021 by stuart

[JeffR]

On  my TR3 I don't have a rubber plug to enable access to the nut on the inner side of the fixing. I use a ring spannerfrom underneath on the nut. The body of the bolt can be stopped from turning while the nut is undone by jamming a suitable sized flat bladed screwdriver between the head of the bolt and the body of the shocker.

Replace the existing bolts with new cap headed bolts ensuring that correctly sized washers are used on both sides of the fixings. In particular, a washer is needed between the bolt heads and the body of the shocker that fit snuggly in the body of the shocker. This helps to reduce the tendency of the shocker to squirm around when in use and also stops the shanks of the bolts moving relative to the hole in the shocker. This avoids elongation of the bolt holes which could ultimately render the shocker U/S.

For what it's worth I purchased my cap headed bolts from Revingtons who also supplied the correctly sized washers.

JeffR